Eagle

At your k's and age If the engine hasnt been opened then i wouldnt be shocked.

E46 M3's have far high production numbers than M5 too, so id expect the M5 to outpace the M3 value as time goes on.

They eventually replied to my email request today after 6 days. They are cancelling the other items and supposedly shipping the rest today. Will see how long that takes them.

Most of the order wasn't in stock and has been received within 2 weeks. No excuse for zero communication in this situation.

Schmiedmann. I vaguely recall a forum member mentioned ordering items that weren't in stock from these guys. Coming up on 3 weeks and still a couple of parts that haven't arrived in their depot to be shipping. No contact from them what so ever after multiply emails sent within a week. Never had an issue like this in all my years of ordering parts from various sources. First time my life im trying a charge back tomorrow before its too late. **** these guys.

Closest thing to that would be a c hook spanner eg https://mytools.co.nz/products/c-hook-wrenches-19-51mm?_pos=6&_sid=c25d51748&_ss=r

Nice. Ive come very close to buying one of few times. The fuel cost didn't put me off but the many big $ sudden failure items did though.

Group the runs Taupo and Hampton track days require you to have full wannabe race driver kit for a track day.

Very unlikely to not have any issues (unless someone has spent lots and lots of money on it in). Id say oil leaks and vacuum leaks are most common issue, but its a 20 year old car so lots of parts may not have failed outright but are very tried if they haven't been replaced at some point - Cooling system(thermostats have usually soft failed and you can use OBD to check operating temp), pcv system (vacuum leaks and added oil consumption), intake boots\hoses cracking, worn engine\gearbox mounts, suspension bushings, struts\shocks\mounts\bump stops(very common), DISA valve (vacuum leak or rattling), vanos seals, drivebelt pulleys, brake rotors etc etc. Basically everything at this point in time but depends on what sort of mechanical standard\reliability you are wanting from the car. You'd want to check all the fluid and filter conditions at the bare min to give you an idea if its been somewhat looked after. These transmissions also have torque convertor faults so ideally it would have had a transmission fluid and filter change at some point. If not you'd want to do one asap if buying it. You can check the subframe if you really want to. You can get your head under the L\R, clean up and check the crease without jacking the car up iirc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaTYBaMpUtE

Yeah that what happened to my first BMW E34. Some drunk cuzzy in a ute rear ended it with bull bars, riding up on the towbar bending the rear boot floor and panel. Write off given the car was only worth about 5k at the time.

Certainly the PS high pressure line to some extent. I don't think ive seen one that doesn't sweat oil at least a little bit. IIRC they are very expensive being RHD specific.

and in typical capitalist fashion basically no punishment all those companies.

Don't think id bother myself. 60,000km on a clutch is nothing under normal use. From what i see no one seems to besides Valeo appears to do a stock standalone sprung clutch for a single mass flywheel.

Yeah that sucks. Since you rebuilding it anyway the B25 head sounds like the best option. As you say the market for a stuffed B25 is basically no one so its scrap anyway. Even good B25's aren't really wanted as far as i know, just the B28 & B30 for the swaps.

At least it will make your E34 look like a Corolla in maintenance costs

Maybe FORGED is the wheel brand?. I would think there should be manufacturers markings on the backsides (looks like something by the valve?) to help ID the wheels. Not that easy to tell forged vs cast apart from looking at them unless they have been so poorly cast it makes it obvious.

Yeah all that can be removed then you just need a cap on the manifold nipple outlet

Towbars have saved me from all sort of rear end damage over the years. They just don't really suit certain vehicles aesthetically.

What the imbalance reading? Did you clean both calipers?

Way too slow though especially in the heavier E46 even with manual. E36 with M42 or the better M44 is way to go for cheaper daily.

Ah yeah i think you may of mentioned that at some point.

+1. Id say 5-6k if you doing in properly with ZF box, new shifter parts, driveshaft, cylinders and clutch\flywheel bits etc. Good portion of the converted ones are done on the cheap with Getrag box and old\sh*t parts used. Rarely see a properly converted ones for sale as id imagine people tend to keep them these days. Msport factory manuals are around ~15k if you can find one with standard spec manual being more common and cheaper at around ~10k. If that out of budget then id probably look at something else because buying these cars is the cheapest part (unless you buying one with all the work done and paying good money for it)

What made you buy one?

Id say much of that is due to the RFB type crowd migrating their interest over to the E36, E46 etc. Yeah insurance companies are very 2 faced. Good reminder about market value though, easy way to be out of pocket.

Got a ToolPro one at work and its ok for what we use it for. To me for DIY usage its one of those things worth spending another $200 and having the extra power, accessories, comfort and longevity. My Griots was under $300 and expect to have it for life.