Eagle

Can't say ive had one issue buying or selling mostly BMW's, but im sure the trash count is much more than it used to be given the Japan>Euro migration.

Try Chartwell Panel and Paint. We use them for our work and they appear to have very reasonable prices for their work.

By the time you refresh the suspension, fix all the hopefully minor engine issues its bound to have, then do some preventative maintenance its doesnt look so cheap. At least after that it should be a better car than most of the 10k ones.

You going to put it on a dyno? Would be interesting to get an idea of how much power its putting down.

Spotted this yesterday as well, who know what issues its got though im guessing its why its going via Turners. There a few non M SMG's around (just bought one my self) The box is modified ZF 5 speed with mainly rear section being different. You can't easily convert the box to manual like the M3 versions as they don't use an external shifter rod, hence no where to attach any linkages. Driveshaft, cross member and diff are all the same as manuals though so you get half a manual conversion already.

I bought an E30 ~10 years ago after soley owning half a dozen E34\E32's. Everyone was talking about them then and most of this board owned one in those days. They were great cars for money back then (still are minus the money part) but no BMW really else drives and looks like them whilst still being available and mostly financially obtainable. If you think E34 are under valved go look at E36 Ti's prices, basically the E30 driving experience without most of the common issues. They just happen suffer from not looking very good for a BMW during 90's and not many 6 cylinders made, otherwise they would probably be far more popular. 3 series will always be more popular than 5 series for smaller car reasons, lower numbers of 5 series manuals doesn't help things.

E46 coupes are already worth more than the equivalent 6 cylinder E39, being more popular they have already won that race. Maybe they will surpass 4 door E46's.

Its been for sale for around 1 year iirc

Can't see the bottom end needing any work if its not using oil besides a possible oil pump refresh. Still could see the honing marks on my 450,000 and 550,000 M30B35 when i did the headgaskets.

BMW handbook lists the automatic sedan at just over 1600kg with full tank of gas, driver but no options so unlikely much more than 1700kg with a\c, towbar, sunroof etc. They do have full alloy suspension and subframes after all and aren't a large car by today standards. Manual is better but too rare. Still adequate power for most driving even with 230hp and the auto. Excellent chassis and looks is what makes them better than anything else in the same class and era.

TU strikes again

Most of the ones seen this year on facebook were asking 4-6k. They were what id class as average examples. Hard to find ones that dont drive and handle sloppy, most need a lot of suspension and steering work to get them to some sort of standard. I think owners generally tend to hold onto the actual good examples these days. Unless your run is lots of highway then imo a E46 is the better choice for run around, much more availability and easier to get bits for.

If your car has DSC you are going to need a master cylinder with DSC ports and sensors. If you dont have DSC you'd ideally want a cylinder without added bits but you can likely still use a DSC one if you plug unneeded ports on the cylinder.

@hqstu has passed the torch onto me so i thought id just continue adding to this thread. Lots of time and money already gone into this so just taking it to next level mechanically whilst keeping it original as i can. Cosmetically it's pretty much already sorted for me apart from a few trim bits i need to install. Still looks tidy despite the age and k's, only really let down by the classic NZ stone chips on the grill and bonnet which require a proper respray to sort. Engine wise its same as above, again Stuart has done a good job here. Engine still pulls strong like most higher k's NZ new cars ive owned. Vanos seals will be done for a likely improvement. Very minor seepage from high pressure power steering hose and rear main seal, otherwise one of the cleanest well running M5X's ive seen. SSG transmission takes a bit of getting used to, it can be shifted quite smooth in lower gears\rpm around town once you adapt but its really at home under sprinted driving using 3-5th gear. Still prefer the manual overall but it's far more enjoyable than the 5 speed auto. Suspension is average BMW, it appears most parts are still original items as expected but beside front bump stops nothing has outright failed. This is the main focus for me and is always money well spent in my experience. Steering isn't as razor sharp as it should be. There slop in the linkage from rubber steering coupler which is past its used by date. This will be replaced with poly version of some sorts due to cost\availability of genuine RHD one. Doing that along with the front control arm bushings should vastly improve steering response. Tyres appear to be flat spotted somewhat which is likely the cause of minor shimmy at highway speeds (lesser degree once warmed up). Re-balance, alignment and new parts installed along with more driving should help that. Following parts have\will be ordered: Sachs front struts with mounts and bump stops Sachs rear shocks with Meyle HD mounts Meyle HD front control arm bushings Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings and ball joints with limiters TRW brake rotors front and rear to go with supplied Akebone ceramic pads Brake hoses front and rear Caliper guide bushings front and rear Vanos seals 2x coolant pipes under manifold with associated seals and CCV + hoses (for piece of mind) Hood struts Front and rear sway bar bushings (maybe poly, genuine ones seem overpriced) Future: O2 sensors (reading slow) Rest of rear control and subframe bushings (will re-evaluate once above suspension parts done) Inspect clutch\flywheel and driveshaft. Replace flex disc and hanger bearing\support same time.

Way too ghetto looking to me especially with those hideous wheels.

I live 10mins from Cambridge so can probably take a look if wanted. Both my facelift E30's never had rust, both NZ new and paint condition says they were probably garaged most of their life.

Usually have a collector which mounts them together somewhere on the body. The tailight end plug\connector terminals are where the problems are of the time in my experience. Easy to check.

Id be checking the rear light bulb holders and contacts then the wiring if needed. Bad grounding usually the issue.

Are the shifter and knob aftermarket parts?

If it happened when you filled up then it could be a leak from the fuel gauge sender unit, crack in the plastic or gasket has failed. Take the plates off under the rear seat and check both sender and the pump. You should see\smell fuel mixed with dust\dirt if this is the case.

Thanks to Stuart for doing most of the hard work

Sort of like yours - https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/291680492536893/?media_id=1&ref=share_attachment Better deal i reckon if you going modified route

Yeah i was thinking W211 but id imagine its still the better buy.

Don't see the point when you can buy a C63 or E63 wagon for similar money.

Penrite ATF FS. Probably the easiest to source and cheapest option in NZ