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I'll sell you mine for 9K, it has had all the above problems addressed, and I will throw in a 6 speed manual, and an e39 touring to get it all home in!

Yes and to be honest I was tempted but couldn't get into that interior colour every day. Brown and beige, oh my Lord. Hurts my eyes.

1997 my arse. It's not even a facelift. "Prod. date 1996-02-26" And this is the problem with that recent asinine thread on registration dates verses production dates. This is NOT a 1997 car folks!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1096456620 Here's another quality BMW I have just listed. I am selling for a family friend who owned for 7 years. Has fully documented service history since he owned it. It is a super crisp example!! Sent from my SM-G360G using Tapatalk

Now I am not sure if its my color, actually I am pretty sure it inst but for some reason I couldn't look away.

Oh dear...

Happy to help, sir. Glad it's back on the road.

Hedgehog?

Original M60 below, note the dual chain setup and the idler gear in the center of the block, a logical proven design, but more costly. Single row main chain, no idler gear at the center of the block, instead plastic guides / alloy backed curved guide takes the strain. Cheaper to make and more simple. Also note the valley coolant reservoir without the top plates. There's about 20 bolts that hold them down, often start leaking from the rear.

They're crap. I'm a 3UZ guy now A lot less, they are what I would run If an M6X was what you really wanted. Non Vanos Normal alternator Normal thermostat Dual parallel chain timing setup so are typically more 'tough' compared to the single chain in the M62s Just pointing out the reality

i found low voltage would make my V12 start on just 6 as well or sometimes it would be a V10 or V9 etc. fully charged battery and always solved it. I just didn't want to face up to spending $400+ on a genuine battery of the correct size.

And it's not a 1uz..

Yeah I can appreciate the originality 100% but you're putting yourself a few steps behind using those M62 motors. I wouldn't touch those N series either. Lets not forget they came from an E65, one of the most unreliable BMWs ever. The M62 was fine as a new motor, but costly to refresh 15 years on. If you were serious about using one you'd need to consider these problem areas: Water cooled alternator - they fail, replace it $1XXX later or try fit a air cooled unit Electronic thermostat, always seems to be a problem unless replaced, that includes most of the plastic cooling parts that crack and leak. Block valley cooling reservoir plate, they leak, bolts rust, an engineering disaster, I've never seen an engine with such a design! Timing chain guides, we all know what that means, special tools and guides are needed, likely new chains too given they get sloppy. Vanos units need resealing... O rings and seals aren't one of BMWs strong points. Headgasket failures seem more common in these than the majority of V8s out there from the 90s Electrical sensors and such related gremlins is another matter again. There's thousands of dollars of parts and time to just get the motor healthy again, all for a 300hp V8? Retrofit costs are high too, the sump customization and oil pump changes are a challenge in themselves. I'm not alone in the negative feedback about these motors, two BMW experts I've spoken to said to stay away from these and not bother, one runs a reputable shop the other was an ex BMW mechanic for 20 years - what does that say? I guess it's a long term project like you say, but I'd reconsider such an engine choice and use something that will give you the results your effort deserves.

Looking now: Sponsors logo's now working Glenn's threads now working (they were working before but not available via the old URL style with a www) Site is now showing correct time

Will check my parts bin tonight for you.

I've done some more checking.... there is a lot missing ATM... I hope there is back up from someone on here

Chuck a dehumidifier in the car for a few days

I'd go with these: Wouldn't mind a set myself.

Not sure, realised just after I put it in that I should have weighed it. Nevermind. Anyhow, finally the car is going again. After spending a couple of hours on Sunday morning rolling around on the wet ground trying to get it done, I had it about 90% finished but couldn't get it done as the previous day a friend of mine was over and was kind enough to push the clutch pedal, dislodging the piston from the slave cylinder. I didn't realise this and spent a good 45 minutes in a lake trying to put it back in, with the rod not budging, only to realise what was going on. Luckily, my good friend Ben came to the rescue that night with a replacement one which I went to pick up. Yesterday afternoon I got back to it and got it back together. The improvement with this flywheel is drastic. I almost couldn't believe what a difference it made, but then it does make sense. The car takes off so much faster than it did before. Anybody with an M30, if you want your car to go faster, I seriously suggest you track down a single mass flywheel, no matter the cost. It's well worth it. Over the next couple of days I have a few small jobs to do on it like replace the front bumper and some small engine related stuff. I'm just glad it's going.

There are plenty around, they can be anywhere between 800-1500 then all the accessories and wiring. Do some research on this as the oil pump is at the front of these motors it usually requires a external oil pump and custom sump for this motor to fit in the engine bay of the e36. Probably why most people use a 1uz or LS engine

V12 is rubbish.

why dont you contact your nearest bmw dismantler ? im sure they will have one.

Errr, ok. I'll switch it off and back on again then ?

Try resetting adaptions with inpa.

I'd be happy with that. My rangie gets 22 towing a 990kg float and 2 beasts on board. I would happily do 13 in a diesel! Oh and beautiful car too, much jealousy.

What an absolute twat.

And there's a voice of (sad) experience.

Yes they are, they will all fail as they all have the same faulty valve stem seals.

ICE exhaust noises. Life is not worth living without them. This video nicely explains

As the car has a fiberglass bonnet we have no bonnet shocks to hold the bonnet up and its not recommended to hack refit them either as it stresses the thin fiberglass. I could have got an old broom stick, but have seen soooo many of these end in FAIL when it gets windy. So, i've created two bonnet stays which attach/lock into the bonnet end and radiator end using the bonnet aero pins or sockets. One is for the service crew which is longer, more robust, also has a door stopper spring in one end to give it flexibility during attachment to ensure we don't twist and damage the bonnet Aero fitting when attaching / de attaching, the other is a shorter and lighter version for storage in the boot for roadside issues. These are my home hack prototypes. Service crew version I cut the Alu pole and inserted a door stopper spring in the middle, then wrapped in electrical tape to get the right level if rigidity The lighter weight car boot version hangs to underside of parcel tray (can slide in and out, no cutters required, its fits snug and doesn't seem to move or vibrate) Will probably v2.0 refine over time.

They leak oil & water..... now they are starting to make icecream

One more pic just for you Kelvin. You know you'd luv one in the garage.

A potential reason for your TPS issue will be because of resistance buildup on the connection. EG bad connection. The way the MSS50.1 & TPS works is it every time you put the car to position 2 on the ignition after the DME has been switched off for around 30 seconds. It will re-adapt the program for the TPS back to 0%. It is known as an adaptive potentiometer. It is used to reset mechanical position 0 in relation to 0% every time the car starts. Also check your return springs and mechanical position of your throttle body plates that they are in-fact sealing 100% at idle.