Eagle

Never overheating a BMW while looking at it so im not sure, but i would expect it to read the temperature regardless. Sounds like some sort of electrical fault with cluster, maybe the sensor itself or something else. If you have access to any scan tool with live data you should be able see if its reading properly on that. If it is then probably a cluster fault im guessing. EDIT: Im assuming you have bled the system?

If it goes away when you put the clutch in while turning off the car i wouldnt worry about it, most vehicles with a dual mass flywheel have it to varying degrees. You would experience much worse symptoms in the unlikely event the dual mass really starts to fail before a clutch replacement.

Haha yeah ive seen it. Would be fun but too much powerful for this country i think. A normal C55 for 1\4 of the price is plenty powerful for me. Just saw a C32 on facebook go for ~6k, you get decent power out of them with mods.

My old 540i had a single mass conversion done by Hellbm, no idea what flywheel it was but don't recall any issues. It seemed to have big traction issues off the line with 3.15 diff, 275 Bridgestone S001s didn't seem to help that much. Speedfactor may have something

Usually unbolt them from the diff flange and leave them on the driveshaft. Could unbolt it from the driveshaft instead, shouldnt matter either way.

Stihl have a 500i, the 'i' being fuel injected like BMW's

I like my electric stuff for certain small jobs but the batteries (rather the battery management) just aint reliable and are too susceptible to random failures. Long term they end up costing more and get obsoleted eventually even if they dont fail.

Dealer probably knows more about it than anyone here. It was imported into the country in 2019 and only done 6000km since so history is probably very lacking.

Exhaust manifold flange gaskets. All the shifter bushings if they havent been done. Maybe engine\transmission mounts, rear main seal, slave cylinder, flex disc and center bearing depending on their condition\wear.

Patience or just make an realistic offer. A certain percentage of sellers use a higher listing price to get near their actual wanting price, eg list for 20k to get haggled down to 15k, rather than just list it for 15k. Most asking prices are based on what the owner thinks its worth or wants for it rather than true market value. The market is still cooling off and prices are still dropping, you should see more realistic prices from owners who are serious about selling as time goes on.

Saw you looking for parts

Worthwhile improvements.

Cold start? Sounds like it could be a loose wastegate actuator arm which is a common rattle on these. If you remove the heat shield and O2 sensor can see and hold it with your hand to verify. There is VW rattle clip you can modify to fix the noise if its vibrating and causing the noise.

Get the N52 6 cylinder instead.

Nothing wrong with cloth if in good condition but ripped cloth seats just look to naff for me not to care. Leather wears much better and can usually be restored much much cheaper via DIY as long as its not too far gone.

Interior looks like it been diddled well, so If thats anything to go by then its likely got plenty more issues.

Technically yes but thankfully very few people care about that stupid rule

Auto boxes arent really worth much\hard to sell. Always better off buying a manual example if they are readily available. Main reason to do one is if you have already spent a lot on the car and plan on keeping it. Sure the value will increase but the conversion cost will negate it so doing it for any financial gain isnt worth it. Manual conversions are likely to be worth less than factory manual given the same condition too. 3-5k in parts to do a proper manual conversion in my books - new flywheel\clutch kit, shifter bushings, cylinders, fluids etc. If you have to pay someone to do it then its not worth it for the average 130i.

Hasn't sold it yet and likely wont at that price. Its a mid 30's car at best given the likely lack of work done to it.

Need to scan to determine what is it. Typically the passenger occupancy sensor mat fault or seatbelt pre-tenioner wire\plug loose. Worst case\less likely a module fault. Most workshops should be able to scan it for you

I meant inner door handle. You can get away without removing the outer one to install the locking mechanism although some may find it easier. As long as you can get into the car you can remove the door card with the door closed and go from there (may result in some damage to it)

At that price im not sure why he thinks driving in to Auckland is going to improve his odds. By the looks of it he's only just started replacing all the original parts that are at their end of life cycle.

E36 are easy compared to anything that came after. I only removed the glass, window rail and door handle.

Yeah sorry i was getting mixed up. Yeah replaced the door lock mechanism, actuator was fine. You could probably pull it apart and inspect it, maybe repair it. We just dont have time for that for went for 2nd hand one. 3k for a new one at the dealership if you feeling rich.

Did a customers one last week for the exact same problem, typical actuator mechanism jam. Luckily managed to get it released by working the inner mechanism and giggling the door.