Eagle

Pretty good. I thinking about doing mine last week but would have to ring around here to find out who can do it. Did you do it via a wheel alignment type business?

Are you talking about the rubber support for the bearing or the actual bearing itself?

Nice colour. Looks like Platanen Green Metallic?

Yeah the spherical bearings have their disadvantages and thats one reason i stuck with M3 OE + limiters. Even replacing the rear lower outer rubber bushing with the sealed bearing the M3 uses makes sharp road transitions more pronounced.

Yeah you can drive mine one day to compare. Id imagine the VQ pulls much harder\stronger the more the revs build up. M54 is just ultra smooth\flat experience with decent low\mid range torque for 3L N\A. A 1.5km drag race vs M3 would be interesting. I'd bet on it edging out the M3 but it would be competitive. For a daily driver i think will be far nicer than a 370z.

Not at the back but a few more around the engine. My old work place we stopped doing jobs like these because they all tend to start failing one after another, aka game of wack-a-hole. Most owners understandably don't want to keep spending 1000's on these sort of repairs.

I misread the diagram. The housing is part no 1 (11537600586) and appears the genuine BMW part contains everything - seals, hose and temp sensor (Some aftermarket kits appear to contain the temp sensor) They are probably using something like this - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/radiators/listing/3873650419 Could just be the sensor leaking as mentioned above, maybe hard to differentiate between it and the flange and they just quoted you the whole job (probably requires removal of more stuff)

Have you got N13 or B38 engine? Temperature sensor cracked (common issue on N13 engine) (no 5) or maybe the housing itself or seal has failed. Looks like you can replace the sensor from under the vehicle without taking much off. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1A12-EUR-10-2012-F20-BMW-116i&diagId=11_5012

Based on basic Carjam info it has come from Japan and was registered there in '93 hence the year. Where actually came before that from i would assume Germany unless it were shipped in a knock down kit to some other country. It would be odd to have that procedure done in the UK for a LHD car though, guess its possible. Colour could be the just the database being wrong. Ive seen discrepancies before on older models.

He's lucky the BMW took most of the hit. The MR2 doesn't look too bad and has decent shot of being repaired all things considered. Guy crying out about his dream car is the MR2 owner. E87's are a dime a dozen.

Yeah jumper across the brake fluid connector and brake pad wear sensor will turn off those lights off I think the brake wear warning is a yellow ! light not red, red is handbrake and fluid level at least.

Sounds like mine then which is the basic system not hi-fi. No amp in boot? Front bottom and rear parcel speakers are the same size @ ~166mm 3 screw mounts with the front tweeter being 25mm, weird sizing. Suppose you could always get some ok second hand ones given the amount of E46 parts car around.

Any codes on any of the systems? Brake fluid switch ok?

Hi-fi should be the speaker 10 speaker setup with amp. I wouldn't expect all the speakers to be dead unless the amp is faulty. MB Quarts were on ebay and various online shops in US and UK. I havent ordered any myself. Bavsound do a 8 speaker replacement for hi-fi (all expect the bass speakers on the rear parcel tray) with is all plug and play sized and correctly ohm'd to the factory amp. Not cheap @ $550 USD. Ive seen E46 speaker adapters which will allow you to mount std sized mid range speakers (within available space) to front and rear door cards and maybe rear shelf using factory mounting locations. Not sure if they have any fitment issues though or quality of install etc given BMW speaker sizes. The tweeters are 8 ohm and rest of the speakers 2 ohm, most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms so not ideal for factory amp. Guess you could get away with running 4 ohm speakers instead of 2 ohm if you dont need high volume. Are you trying to upgrade the system? or just get it the sound working with the factory deck?

Man that bonnet is horrendous. Engine and suspension will certainly need some money spend on it no doubt. 2k is fair given most E34's never went up in value, still around the same price range they were 10+ years ago. Would make a good work horse if you can handle to fuel economy.

Looks like you have poverty spec audio like me, no audio option in VIN, 6 speakers with no amp? Best found for the direct replacement (front tweeter housing needs a small mod to fit) and not too badly priced were these - https://www.audiodesign.de/mbquart/english/QM165E46BMW.html Im assuming with no additional amp the factory head deck is going to be crippling him a fair bit.

Yeah market is certainly inflated but certainly starting to cool off to some degree. Tall order to ask for big money when they aren't exactly popular.

Least its all sorted now in one go.

Still well ahead of the average car around im sure. Like they told me at school 'its what on the inside that counts'. Lots of polished turds around when it comes to vehicles.

Don't know anything about what you are done to your engine but O2 sensors may help. You can data log them to see, but i find they are slow on most older cars. Replacing them usually improves fuel mileage and throttle response when ive done them in my own BMW's after checking everything else.

Yeah it has been posted and he's certainly got talent. Not really a 330ci anymore though.

Maybe its just me but i don't even think its even worth 20k.

If you get Eibach Pro-kit or Sportline springs then Spareto.com is the probably the cheapest place to buy

Looking at that sheet: Yeah camber is technically out of spec but realistically not an excessive amount plus its even, almost looks like its been modified to a give close neg camber reading on both sides. Would be nice to have one before new part install then you'd know for sure, but comparing the two sheets i think we should do the L\H knuckle also as you suggested. I think the strut and mount are most likely ok.

RH side maybe not have been mm perfectly centered but certainly visible via the slot and other side appeared the same to me, not going to change anyway. Yeah that camber is out a fair bit more than i expected. Yeah adjustment is very little on E39 iirc like .20' so probably not going to help in this case sorry. Has it always had alignment issues\steering issues since you bought it? Have you kept any older alignment sheets like before all the suspension work? I keep them for this reasons like this