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  2. Mad_Max

    Gull 98

    Our old inboard with it's 351 Cleveland and 60l alloy tank used to sit parked up for 8 months of the year. First thing we used to do was pour a litre of methylated spirits (which is ethanol) into the tank before towing to the caravan park (over an hour away of shaking the tank) before starting it. Never had a problem once we learned that trick. I was told not so much water being soluble in it, rather the ethanol bonds to the water and absorbs the compression in the motor so the water molecules didn't cause any damage when they didn't compress. I'm not a science teacher so could very well be wrong lol (and would be interested to hear the science behind it if I am) but either way, ethanol/methylated spirits has been known for years to work like that.
  3. @Olaf i have a story that might make you laugh then haha back in my e30 days when i was younger, one of the spare e30's i had was parked up for a long time, and water got into the fuel tank, alot of it, how, i dont know, but it wouldn't start because water was the only thing going through the fuel pump we tried draining the fuel tank, but the design of the fuel bowl is that even after draining the fuel, the water remained right in the area that would get sucked up by the fuel pump I didnt have any suction type things that could reach it either But water is soluble in ethanol, so i poured like 5l of ethanol in, it dissolved all the water, and then poured the fuel in and just like that, the e30 was back in action.
  4. Olaf

    Gull 98

    I understood the greatest risk with fuels containing ethanol is that it emulsifies on contact with water, eg the condensation in your fuel tank. The emulsion sinks to the bottom of your tank, and f#%ks up your fuel system. Very bad news for boaties of course, frequently with large alloy underfloor tanks. How fast can you say 'expensive outboard rebuild'. Still, my BMWs are not boats, not even the e60. I'm open-minded and very interested to read the 'real oil' on Gull's 98, though. It's not like I'm a petrochemical engineer!
  5. Neal

    Gull 98

    Ran Mobil 98 in. Car and bike for a few years. Didnt ride the bike much and had in the tank too long. Tried to start bike ( Ducati 748r) no go. left it for a few months more and then got dealer to pick up. basically fuel lines had turned to a snot / marshmallow substance, fuel pump fckd , sender stuffed. Basically $1400 in parts. i won’t use ethanol blends again.
  6. Sweet, good of you to join up Glen. Post some road trip pics after you get home!
  7. andrewm

    Gull 98

    Gull 98 is Gull 95 with ~10% ethanol. ~80% gasoline, ~10% ethanol, ~4% Toluene, ~3% Benzene and ~3% proprietary 'performance additives' Yes you can run it all day long. The issues with ethanol on modern engines isn't generally that it corrodes anything, its that it has ~30% less energy than gasoline for a specific volume and has a different ideal air fuel ratio - in high ethanol percentages the ECU is unable to adjust fueling to compensate risking detonation.
  8. shuey

    Gull 98

    Sounds awesome. All I really want to know is can I run my E92 M3 on the stuff. If I can, then I can buy it here, instead of what’s happening now - mercy dashes to Auckland to pick up 98 fuel for my M3 and my mates M5. Cheers.
  9. manuals are more common in the UK too though the spec on them can be pretty low.
  10. Buy the one that has the range of accessories you might be likely to buy in future. I got a cheap Ryobi one a while back and had issues getting accessories for it, so sold it and went Nilfisk. TBH the range of accessories are a bit average in NZ for Nilfisk, so if i were to do it again I would go Karcher. They all have warranties, and washing a car with it is hardly likely to stress it. We used a retail consumer Karcher unit at my old job, where every car got washed down it with (20-40 cars a day), and although we went through a few guns and hoses, the main units survived.
  11. Hi all, I have bought Brad's car, and will be picking it up from Auckland this Friday and driving it back to it's new home in Dunedin. I thought I should join the forum as well as it played a part in my purchasing the car, with helping to research its background. Looking forward to spending many pleasant hours behind the wheel of my first BMW! Thanks again Brad, your assistance and help was really appreciated!
  12. @zero yeah, he did the entire mix for it, i'll see if i can pin him down and get some detailed specifics about how ethanol blends interact with motors, and performance specifics i used to talk to him heaps about the specifics of gull fuels, but its very detailed and has escaped my memory I was always angry with him for not just doing it in his own time, patenting it, and selling it back to the fuel company lol ... cause DAMN!
  13. zero

    Gull 98

    @325_driver it would be certainly interesting to learn from someone in the know as there are so many myths around. How does it differ from what the other fuel manufacturers offer?
  14. My father was the operations manager for Gull Petroleum, and he was the chemical engineer for all of their fuels, including ethanol blends, force 10 etc - I can ask him for a detailed explanation if you all want lol? What do we want to find out about the fuel? I'll dig into it and report back. From my memory when he was designing it, i heard it was actually supposedly superior for newer cars both in performance and better on the engines, it was only some of the older motors that might have had issues with the dryer combustion from the ethanol content.
  15. Blackie

    Gull 98

    I googled that for you https://www.autoevolution.com/news/bmw-cars-can-cope-with-e10-fuel-32393.html
  16. Interesting, what is the source of that quote?
  17. PS: mine runs an Italian pump, same brand as some sold by Kerrick these days at around a grand.
  18. II used to use my mate’s Stihl, and followed his instructions for use very carefully. He stopped loaning it to others as they’d blow it up. It was an excellent unit. I figured it was time to get my own, couldn’t swing to a Stihl. Bought a Dynamic VIP from the toolshed. It’s compact, weighs tons, very powerful. It’s also spent many visits to sickbay over the years. I use it mostly for cleaning paths with the dirt buster head. I’d like a foam cannon, but the reality of setting up a waterblaster down 40-odd steps to wash my car, Power, hoses etc... be a rare thing. An alternate theory I’ve heard that merits consideration: buy the bunnings special at around $100 or $150. It’ll probably come with a 2 or 3 year guarantee... if it craps out after warranty expires just buy a new one. Much cheaper than workshop fees on a good one! I’ve paid more than double for mine in the 15 years I’ve had it. HTH.
  19. Im on the hunt for the same, lemme know if you find a good source. My E91 is all wired up for it, just no bar.
  20. Good for cleaning suspension and wheels etc (throw water based degreaser in foam cannon, go nuts), and blowing snow foam everywhere, but yeh... it doesnt save time
  21. Yes - that's the idea. To remove as much contamination as possible before you touch it. And then lubricate as much as possible when you wash it. It's definitely more fun - and I can get away with touch-less washing on ceramic coated wheels. Apparently all the brands are based on the same chinese pump. They then just change the nozzles and charge $xxx more for the next model up. Karcher have their own design though.
  22. Hi. I have a set of four Toyo Proxes T1R tyres for sale. 2 new, 2 used but with less than 1,000km on them. Currently listed on TM for $600, but I'm will to do a less TM fee deal for those on here. I also have two used Toyo Proxes 4 tyres for sale. Minor camber wear but will have no problem passing a WOF. Currently on TM for $80 but willing to do a deal for those on here. Perfect for those E30 Weaves. Location Hamilton.
  23. That's a bit of an eye-opener...
  24. Yes, using the waterblaster adds more time to the wash cycle, it doesn't make it quicker. [edit] I have a Nilfisk 120.6 and it's OK, I got a car wash attachement nozzle which seems to be lower pressure but wider and finer fan. I made the mistake of using the higher pressure nozzle on my wheels and promptly took off a bunch of paint >_< so be careful with high pressure attachments. Definitely grab the longer hose for washing the car. I use mine as a pre-wash to get rid of any loose dirt as I figure getting that off means there's less left on the car to scratch things up during the hand wash. Then I use a foam attachment to spray on Fireball Hydrophobic coating. Having 3 dark coloured cars is a PITA. I can't comment on whether Karcher/Stihl/Ryobi/Other brand is better or worse than Nilfisk. [/edit]
  25. Yesterday
  26. So all good if needing to clean your car after doing some paddock hacking. But bit of an effort to lug out a waterblaster, snow foam it vs just hand washing it with a garden hose if your car only has the usual road grime on it.
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