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Just posting this here rather than hijack someone elses thread. Brings back allot of memories of way back then http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/20977-e36-m50m52-manual-conversion/

S65

Velocity for rotational inertia is given in radians per second, it's only the rotational inertia term which changes the result for kinetic energy so it's a simple scaler with rotational inertia isn't it? What equations are you using? In other news, the VH44 turned up today, might see about positioning it and getting the right fittings/lines this weekend...

Yeah it's certainly a strange one to explain! the Honda, despite having a bigger premium on it, is rough in comparison so i'm not as precious about things like keeping the ks down etc. In saying that, it probably will also fall to the same regime the M3 did haha! I guess the main difference will be the fact that it is a longstanding dream car for me, so even if its seldom used like the bmw was, I wont feel as guilty (or so I hope!) Nah, it's an AW11 I had LITERALLY just finished restoring. was a total rotten mess when I got it, we do have an FD though! (i'll post a photo of them all below) I'll just note that the Honda isn't mine (yet), we're still mid negotiating stuff, so I don't wanna upload anything up for sure at the mo, but once its all finalized i'll put some cheeky pics of it up (i'll slap some bmw stickers on it to keep it "relevant" ) Hopefully this will suffice in the meantime!

You might want to hand back your petrolhead credentials preferring a turbo 4 to an NA inline 6...

Found something similar the other day, 128s (the US market N52B30 coupe) uses actual pressure sensors, makes ya wonder why BMW developed two systems for two different markets considering so much of the parts are similar.

I stand corrected. You learn something every day. I found this: https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tech-tip-bmw-tpms-systems/

I've never had to deal with tpms system. But had researched it awhile ago as was interested to see how it worked. And had read about the system you describe and also the system which uses sensors in the tyre valve. A quick check on TIS for e53 shows it uses a pressure sensor in valve system. Maybe the tyre shop is correct. Would be interesting to know what system it is using. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e53-x5-3.0d-sav/wiring-functional-info/chassis-suspension/wheels-tyres/tyre-pressure-control/XkPZ3jW

Yeah I was just joshing around with the N54. Its a hard theory to confirm it's the shafts without pulling the rocker cover off afaik. I'm not really sure what I'll do, having put a few grand into it to get it running and it's still not working. Budget has kinda run out, especially for something like eccentric shafts/cam shafts. Cars probably not worth that much if I sell either ?

Miss M was more 'in debt' to the IRD than that, but the bill was waived. Looks like they have adopted a 'less than $xx will cost more than we get' policy.

Just saying. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/listing-2652240429.htm

Well documented thread thanks for re-sharing.

@NZ_InFerno just as a last ditch check, disconnect the electrical connector from the eccentric shaft sensor on the valve cover and see if there is oil in there. I know its been replaced recently, but worth checking before going down the rabbit hole.

I dont understand it. The km arent that high, and its had regular servicing. What causes the wear? Surely if it just "wears out" the cars with higher KM would be falling over too and it would be a more common issue that it appears.

It's only a theory at the moment, if lean more to fixing your engine, there's not much else that could go wrong with them after this. Could end up doing all this to the new motor yet

Hey M3AN, xHP Stage 3 certainly shows what gear you are in when in drive. I see that the trans spends a lot of time in 3rd and 4th around town, when before the flash it would be in 5th and 6th as soon as the load eased up. Makes it more responsive but probably doesn't help fuel economy ? Cheers...

I dont know about the software version but can confirm on my E91 it would come up with gear number on Drive mode (D1-D6 as mentioned) as well as in sport and manual modes.

I've got some questions regarding some of the calculations, but the core idea is certainly good, rotational inertia can be estimated across different flywheels easily enough to get a relative result, which ones are 'heavier' than others and take longer to spin up/down.

P codes won't help. It could be a number of things. You need to get it diagnosed by a BMW specialist or the dealer otherwise you'll end up with empty pockets and getting nowhere. It's more than likely to be air leaks

WTB E30 325i Manual Drive shaft

GLWS, I could be keen on the style 66 wheels if you end up parting it.

Manual swap the black 2dr

Regardless of whether the "style language" catches on, they're disproportionate and non-functional (either largely or entirely blanked off). That they've actually admitted why they've done it, to pander to the predominantly Chinese Asian market, makes it even worse. That's the tail wagging the traditional BMW dog as naked as can be. Tesla have already convinced many people that cars can look better without grills, it's difficult to see where BMW are going with this. Maybe they'll eventually just paint them on? Pure engineering that.

No worries, welcome. Haven't had any more overflow issues since putting in the new hoses and coolant and raising the front of the car while filling. I suspect I must have had air trapped in the head from the first time round. Turns out the ledge panel is easy to get to so I can remove it easily and trace round it on cardboard and send to anyone who wants to fabricate their own - just ask. If anyone does want a template it might also be worth while drawing up and posting the drawing. Then I can also include the bracket dims etc...

Took some photo's so here's a step-by-step to fabricate a bracket to hold the M3 Euro Expansion Tank. Turns out it was easy to remove and there was enough length in the hose to push it up onto the inlet manifold so I could take photo's. Your car should already have a bracket on the firewall where the back of the mounting ledge bolts to with 2 x M6 screw. If you fabricate a flat plate ledge (eg 3mm Ally sheet) you need to put a 6mm spacer between the bracket and ledge so it sits at the correct height. I used cardboard and tape to make a template of the plate. This was overlaid onto the 3mm Ally Sheet and traced out. The Ally Sheet was cut out with a Jigsaw. The firewall bracket mounting holes were marked out with the plate sitting in-place. The strut tower end had hole marked out about where they would need to be. Once the holes were drilled and the plate screw in to the firewall bracket I marked through the strut tower holes onto the strut tower bracket. This bracket was only temporarily bolted in so it was removed to drill the holes for the ledge. Next the position for the expansion tank was marked out on the ledge with the tank sitting roughly in place. I marked only the foot end and then removed the ledge to get everything else lined up on the bench. The bracket for the rear expansion tank mounts was cut to suit along with the PVC mount. The rear bracket was bolted on and the ledge was ready to reinstall. Top View of the completed ledge: You can see the bracket bolted and glued to the strut tower. The ledge is made from 3mm Ally sheet. The Bracket to hold the ECU plug is made from 25x50x3mm Ally Angle with the bit that slides into the plug mounting grooves made from standard electrical DIN Rail cut to reduce the width. The Bracket to hold the back of the expansion tank is made from 25x100x3mm channel with one end cut off and a piece of 25x25x3mm Ally Angle bolted to it facing backwards. The bracket has to be bent to match the angle of the two round things on the back of the expansion tank. The grey plastic is 10mm PVC sheet. I put a nylock on the M5x40 bolt holding the PVC so it could be left just nipped up and could swivel so the expansion tank can be slid in at an angle then turned into place. At the strut end there's a flat plate added to allow for the thickness of the foot of the expansion tank. You need to make a small plate up to screw on to this plate to clamp the foot. Bolts holding the back of the ledge to the firewall (6mm spacer underneath): Finished Install (except the missing coolant low plug!!) The coolant low brown/white wire needs to be pulled back from the radiator drivers side and a new ground wire added/ Height the expansion tank sits at:

Some JDM greats in that garage for sure! NSX and FD are some of the best looking Japanese cars every made. Very, very cool indeed.

Unless your 328 is making decent power (turbo, supercharged etc) What's wrong with standard clutch? If you're making decent power then really that just comes with the territory. If you're making standard power just put the standard setup back in and you'll have your nice cushy spongy clutch pedal back again. You put a heavy pressure plate in and complain about pedal effort. To be expected. Storm in a teacup.

Pics please. You'll learn soon young Bedouin. ?

Mmmm, I could be keen. Will PM you later today

On the side of the road in warkworth.

Gave it wash prior to WOF tomorrow. This is Fusso King of Gloss applied 7 weeks ago, and it was covered in mud prior to this evening. Stuff is really legit, behaves like a ceramic but way cheaper and easier to apply.

You could try marketing E34 window switches for $2500 each, just add a note "to suit McLaren F1"

Yeah for 13.5k at those k's and age id expect a fair bit of preventative maintenance on engine and suspension to be done. Can't see anyone paying more than 11k assuming nothing require attention immediately.

Thanks man. Spur of the moment setup pic..and doesnt she look might fine??. But...I aint impressedwith those headers. I should have made another set before doing these..to get my procedure thought about and planned. Also...I need a proper welding station, the machines feed at lower end either goes too low or high..variable knob is stoofed, a metal table with adequate clamps, much better lighting and a few more hours with a gun in my hand. The end product..is..OK...I will do some proper mandrel bent ones in december. That photo shot says it all though..pleased with all the work up to this point. Electronics, cats fitted and rear welded without muffler..to start up in 2 weeks..

Im trying to justify cost, yellow saved half a metre! Your "science" isnt helping.

Hey Pete - Hi from the Welly crew - Pete Add some pics of the X3! And is it your first BMW?

After reading all this I would conclude that the problem is wear in the back circles of the camshaft lobes, and or wear in the back circle lobes of the eccentric shaft causing the hydraulic lifters to pump up which in turn will not allow the valves to close and seal properly. Had this once on a merc (another horror story) It needs to be diagnosed by someone conversant with the product rather than the local garage.