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UPDATES 05.03.2016: Righto! It's been a while since my last post, but I promise that's for a good reason, and the wait, has most certainly been worth it. If some of you follow me on my photography social media page, many of you will know that last night I received a very nice visit from the Work Wheels NZ man, bearing the gifts I have been waiting the last 6 months for ... The picture speaks for itself really. Although they were delayed several months due to manufacturing defects in Japan - David from Work Wheels NZ was outstanding in his service for the delivery of my wheels in the end. The wheels are Work Meister M1 3 piece, specs 18x10 et-2 on all corners. They are gunmetal grey face with polished lip finish, and gold plated accessory hardware. Needless to say, beautiful. The next morning I was off to Autostance to see Matt and Heino to organise my tyres and fitment for the new wheels. We got straight to test fitting and discussing what tyres would be best suited for the wheels. My friend Daniel willingly agreed to come by and help me out where possible today too, and take photos on my behalf when I was unable to After a few discussions, it was time to slap the tyres on! Heino with a pyrotechnics show in the middle of the day. The tyres fit just right for the fenders, so it was just a matter of time before we got each one fitted up... At the same time, I wanted to change the E36 lug bolt wheel set up to a stud and nut set up - I much prefer it this way as it is much easier to remove/change wheels, not risking the wheels while messing around trying to line up the darn wheels with the hub. The Meister center caps cover up the bland center holes which normally leave something to be desired. Decided to take a quick cheeky photo with all 4 wheels on the car ... At this stage, I was stoked to say the least. The car looked damn good with the Works - I have yet to see anyone else local running this wheel set up on a BMW in New Zealand, and I have no idea why nobody has done it sooner! After this, it was time to adjust and correct some of the crazy negative camber I had before, to make the fitment more flush and sensible Not too much of an issue adjusting the camber thanks to easy to use adjustable rear camber arms As a final bonus touch, Matt offered to give me some colour to my exhaust tips - unfortunately Roni's sticker was burnt, but of what *IS* burnt, looks like it might be permanent Great blowtorch skills Matt, 10/10 hahah. All that was left, was to take her outside ... At this point, just couldn't get over how damn good she looked. I'll really let the images do most of the talking. Many of you may have noticed I am no longer running the LTW wing in these images, don't worry, I will be putting something on the rear - something crazier hopefully It's been a huge wait for these wheels, but today has been an amazing day, finally putting this car together with the wheels I had in my mind from the start. The final product is every bit as perfect as I had imagined. I still stare at it now and can't believe it looks the way that it does, and that it's my car. It's come so far over the past few months. I have to give a huge shout out and thanks to Matt and Heino from Autostance today, who basically lent me their assistance and skills for the better part of the day to get it all sorted in one go! Also have to give a big thanks to David from Work Wheels NZ for helping me organise and bring these beautiful wheels to New Zealand! The build isn't 100% finished, but it's certainly getting there. I still have a few things in store for it, and then after the visual customisation is done, it'll be time to look at doing work under the hood ... For now, I'll leave you with this one last pic - see you on the next update! Peace. Jeff

2010 is the year it was registered overseas, year of first registered in new country does not change. Even if you import a 25 year old car, the year will remain 1991, you can't advertised it as a 2016. That car is actually imported into NZ on Jul 2014 and registered in NZ on Dec 2014. Now that Jan 2008 Germany built car probably took 6 months after it was built to be shipped to Japan then from Jun 2008 to Jul 2010, it sat in the showroom until someone purchased it then it was registered.

Washed it. Somehow it had gotten filthy and it hasn't moved anywhere lol

^^ This All the tech in the worth ain't worth jack sh*t if the engine needs a total rebuild after 120,000km. For me the journey stopped with the CSL E46 & the E39 M5. Only reason the E46 makes the list is the mechanical engineering overrides the electric wizardry. Given the choice between the newest M3 (or is that M4. Or M3+1. Or M3v2.0??) and say, the Hellcat Dodge I'd probably go for the dinosaur Hemi. Probably not as nice to drive, but at least it'll run for more than 100,000km before needing a total rebuild

Speaking of pointless.... ^^

IMHO BMW(s) lost their soul in about 2004 when electronics became fundamentally more important than mechanics.

another to add http://www.willtheyfit.com/

It's Friday evening, dark outside, too many flying bitey things in the garage when the lights are on, and for a variety of reasons I have time on my hands and no alcohol to help pass it. So, I've started doing a teensy tiny little bit of planning for what I would like to do with an E30 coupe shell. I made the decision a while ago to stick with a 4-pot engine. Lighter than many 6-pots, and more room to work. And fewer cylinders means fewer expensive parts required. And that's as far as it got. In the interests of moving things along, I've since decided to go with an M10. It's original. It's a nice, simple, strong and reliable engine. (Yeah, I know, I'm missing a trick with the opportunity of some of the later engines but I'll live with it.) Admittedly, this decision was influenced by exchanging some emails with a friend in Denmark, who has a friend in Sweden, who has done some silly things with M10s. (And that's without getting into the whole M12 and other variants discussion.) Most recently, he's been developing some top end parts. Roller rockers maintaining better geometry than stock, but weighing more than 5g less. Each. That's over 40g saved from just the twiddly bits in the top. This guy has been testing the rockers, too. He's set up a kit to test cams, rockers valves and springs. Pre-warm oil (of course) and see how long it takes for them to break. It's no fun doing these things at normal engine speeds especially when that's not where they're likely to be used, so how about winding the whole thing up to 10000rpm, walking away and and leaving it for several hours? Subsequent measurements show no measurable wear. An accidental spin to over 15000rpm didn't break anything, but that wasn't sustained. So, this seems like a good idea. Just need a crank, block rods and similar that can do that, too. And a gearbox. And...

It's a BAD thing. Some of you will know of the near financial destitution we've encountered as a result of paying for operations for our cat after he was hit by a speeding car outside our home. It's a nice, long straight piece of road with good visibility, but also with a number of small children and many animals living on either side. The incident happened in very early January, the first weekend (incurring even more expense), and he is only now returning to his normal self. Gerard is much better now, recovering from several operations. He had a jaw broken in three places, broken nose, broken mandible, collapsed lung, the other lung at least half-full of fluid, and when we found him, blood coming from mouth, nose, ears and eyes. His claws had been ripped from his paws where we can only assume he was trying to stop sliding on the road. He's had wires inserted in his jaws to hold them together, but the blood supply through his jaw did not resume in time so he subsequently had to a piece of jaw and one of his lower canines removed. Not everyone likes cats. Fair enough. And let's be dispassionate about this one cat - we could have bought dozens of pedigree kittens for what it has cost. (We don't want dozens of kittens, so no thanks, before anyone asks. ) However, this could have been any other animal, or a child. Or an adult. We're all in a hurry sometime, but arriving late is better than not arriving at all. Or causing someone else to not arrive. On a lighter note, I've spent some of the intervening time coming up with a way to sort this issue. Speed bumps. Yes. I know, cars zoom between them, braking hard at at the last second to ease over the bump, then burning rubber on their way to the next one. Still, it's worked in trials. https://youtu.be/vuunB0XGQPs

Perhaps it should read has BMW lost its way? When the new M4 came out I was genuinely impressed and although I really like the E92, one of the most engaging cars I have driven, I thought well turbo is the way forward but it seems like the new M cars have lost a bit of whatever it is that made them special. Now I haven't driven the F80/82 so my comments are based on other's reviews. But as an BMW convert coming from muscle cars this review was a little surprising. Whats even more thought provoking is the Hot versions of the Camaro are yet to be released. Hmmm. maybe I should stick an LS1 in my e46. http://www.motortrend.com/news/comparison-2015-bmw-m4-vs-2016-chevrolet-camaro-ss/

My car makes a funny like 'whining' sound when I start it when its cold is this normal??

Build date 2008 Registered in Japan Imported from Japan And on the NZ papers it will be first registered in NZ 2010. Registration has nothing to do with build date

As he is a bit vague on "new paint job" i wasnt sure if it was original color or some flashy chameleon paint job or something State required that i disclosed everything to them that wasnt original, and only when it exceeded 20% of insured value did they "claim" to have an issue with them. Mind you, i did also find out after years of insurance with them and many modified cars, they hadnt been insuring any of the modifications correctly anyway.... so i dont know.

What size tyres?

Put some new shoes on the daily.

I think they have lost a little soul. The M3, was once compared to everything as it was just so god damn good. It wasnt just good in it's category, it made it's own...and owned it till...recently. That M3/M4 is not the dominant car in it's category. The Caddy, the Camaro, the Audi, the Merc have all been better somewhere, and even beaten it overall, which never used to happen, it doesnt even get compared to cars outside it category like it used to because, it just isnt that dominant anymore. The Nissan GTR is now that car that gets compared to literally everything and only several years later is it coming up short, but then they throw it at literally everything that has 4 wheels on it. The M5 likewise is not the best in its category either, its not the fastest or the lightest or the anything, they used to put the E39 M5 up against everything as well for the same reason. The 1 series, does well, the 2, forget already, the 3, nope bettered by the Jag at the least, the 4, well its a coupe, the 5 nope more people are buying Mercs and Audi's now, the 6, nope Audi has that dicked too, the grand somethings are nice but peeps dont wanna pay and they came too late although I think they are awesome, the 7 looks really good but the S class looks like its sewn that up and they have a seriously good coupe as well which Bmw does not have. The flippin X6M probably fights better in it's class than any other bmw...and I didnt see that coming...

Actually sold but have to get on a PC to update thread

^ wut?

Did some painting, and started making an bottom splitter for the front bumper, next week the yellow.

point already made. I agree with Ron's argument about 'tech' - though all the tech in the world isn't worth much if the way it's wrapped together is not the equal - in practice - to a simpler solution. I'll wait and see how well these new updated tractors are #; ) You won't see me bagging the LS, that's for sure. Meanwhile if I win Lotto this evening it's an e46 M3 and a 997 for me, thanks. And probably an X5 too. And probably some ohlins suspension for my wagon too!

Nothing wrong with a 6lr V8 that gets similar fuel economy to a 3lt turbo. As to technology in my books it's worth dick if it doesn't translate to real world gains. Look at VW/Audi's 5 valve engines; Yawn. Oh and tecnology is not just measured by the number of cams you have. Now Ron it's obvious you're a V8 hater, but from what I have just read BMWs premium driving car just got got equaled and subjectively beaten by a so called clunker. And that clunker is just a cooking version what will the Z28 or Z06 do? The last Z28 lapped willow springs faster than a Nissan GTR. I have to say you are so misinformed about the LS engine series; they are so easy to extract power from and its very cheap especially in comparison to say an M54 where the only meaningful gains can be made with forced induction. The LS series are shorter, lower and weigh, a lot less than BMW's V8's. HP per cubic inch is one measure but what about HP per CC of engines external dimensions? Or HP per Dollar! I moved to BMW's for the chassis as I got tired of the average chassis that Holden and Ford offered (The VF is not too bad) but apart from the M motors I am a little underwhelmed by how expensive it is pull an HP out of the M50-54 series, and an S54 cost moon beams.

AMI wouldn't insure the car at agreed value, for what I paid for the last car I brought... It was a prefacelift, in a crossover year, so I had to have it insured for 25% MORE than I paid, if I wanted agreed value DONE! It's all based on numbers, and not details, though I've "discussed" values with the local AMI branch manager, and we've come to values suitable to both of us. They know what they can do, and you know what you want. I can't see it working with a call-centre pleb though.

Isnt talking about cars on Trademe the whole point in the "trademe discussions" section on this site? It seems you may be lost if you're in this section looking for something other than discussions about cars on TM. It should also be said that the OP was asking for opinions on the price, to which people responded. The OP is looking to buy an E23.

It's just not that they want to have the most electronics. They are a form of future income. The sensors crap out and have to be replaced. The manufacturers are cunning bastards and make sure none of the sensors are universal. That way they can get the car to go into limp mode if important sh*t like the screen washer bottle is only half full or a sensor to say your left foot should be 3.74 mm to the right. Cars are far more reliable mechanically because of advances made so they have to find other ways to stop them working and make money.

I have often thought my E46 represented the last of the real drivers BMWs and I still really like the e36 Chassis. But how does someone like GM who have made crap for decades get it right while BMW seems to have regressed?

i NEVER use water blasters on a vehicle....any vehicle,not even the underneath of my pajero

Just making it a bit easier to read 1 Series E81/82/87/88 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 35-45 3 Series E21 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-20 3 Series E30 = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-35 3 Series E30 M3 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 27-30 3 Series E36 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-41 3 Series E36 M3 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 35-47 3 Series E46 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-47 3 Series E46 M3 = PCD 5x120 centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Fronts ET 30-47, Rears ET 20-27, 3 Series E90/91/92/93 = PCD 5x120, Centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-45 3 Series E90/92/93 M3 = PCD 5x120, Centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 34-37 5 Series E28 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 18-25 5 Series E34 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 13-20 5 Series E34 M5 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. 5 Series E39 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 5 Series E39 M5 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 5 Series E60/61 = PCD 5x120 centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-32 5 Series E60 M5 (Saloon) = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-32 5 Series E61 M5 (Touring) = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-32 6 Series E24 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. 6 Series E63/64 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 14-20 6 Series E63/64 M6 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 12-20 7 Series E32 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 19-26 7 Series E38 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 13-25 7 Series E65/66/67/68 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 15-25 8 Series E31 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. X3 E83 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 40-45 X5 E53 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. ET 40-45 X5 E70 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 74.0mm and M14x1.25 bolt thread. ET 37-53 X6 E71 = PCD 5x120, centre bore FRONT 74.0mm, centre bore REAR 72.5mm and M14x1.5 bolt thread. Z1 E30Z = PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.0mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Z3 E36 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 30-40 Z3 M Coupe/M Roadster = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. Z4 E85 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread. ET 45-52 Z8 E52 = PCD 5x120, centre bore 72.5mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread.

I just tell them it's a very well-maintained example, and insure it at the top-end of their range. Going beyond that requires valuations.... and if you put your car as it is now on TradeMe, would it fetch top-market PLUS more for the good parts? Probably not; file under "sunk cost" and enjoy driving your well-maintained vehicle. HTH PS - you'd still have to do the same to an e92! as well as electrical water pump, right?

Or a more powerful waterblaster....

You've got red on you!

Got the old compressor repaired and all good but a costly excercise. At least I'll get a refund on the new unit and half the shipping. Had a pretty sh*t day today with the car. Pulled the front spoiler off in the repco car park when the rubber splitter along the bottom caught on the bump stops they have on the parks. Would normally reverse into parks but haven't driven it much lately so wasn't thinking. Fortunately the spoiler was virtually undamaged and only took 5 mins to put back on. Though had to drive home with it sticking out the window. Also found out the previous owner scrimped on the respray. My water blaster pulled a chunk of paint off the bonnet and the red paint underneath was barely sanded. No wonder it hadn't stuck to well. Guess I better start saving for the full repainted.

Sold pending payment!!

damn daniel...

Forum rules... a price is required in the For Sales Section on the Forum. Either fix a price or the thread goes AWOL in the morning

Spotted this little beauty in Parnell the other day.

Had this 600+hp e92 come into work work today. Sounded incredible. Also seen Justins old e36 touring a few times in the last couple of days

We get to 0 in Auckland.. Well where I live anyway. Some more photos. Thanks to Harvey @ Work Wheels NZ. They're mint!

Most of the parts though are the same as other e30s.... So not really that hard to find. Unless you're talking about e34 m50 sumps. .... Lol

Those uneven surface signs crack me up! Have they seen the state of the roads in NZ??Would be easier to put "even surface" on the bits that are smooth and flat.

Step 2 condenser and Aux fan.

Step 1 of my air con retrofit project. This will be the easiest bit I'm sure!

Aye. Forged rims are metallurgically a little different to cast ones. I took 6mm off the inside face of some AMG 18x8 et31 rims to make them and et37. The et31s rubbed on the front of my W124 but 6mm is all that's needed for free running under all conditions.

I believe they can also be melted down and re-cast into wheels that are a size you can use!

Did some polishing of my Kidneys Not quite finished yet

Went to the Shannon car show in the 740i and met up with some of the Welly and Palmy guys. Then had a nice drive up the Saddle rd and a hoon on the way down..lol Awesome day. Thanks to Olaf for organizing.

New gearbox in the e30. Even got the reverse lights to work. Gearbox is smooth as butter, I used redline shockproof gear oil and changed my diff oil too. Used castrol axle 90 for lsd diffs. That lsd goodness. Took the e30 for a long drive. After almost two months of no driving the battery was actually gone with the wind. 8 year old battery too so not bad. Rang my old man up and he brought me a new battery from the shop so I could get going. Nothing like a cruise with the top down on a hot summers night

Saw this on the New Zealand subreddit last week, thought it was pretty good, wish I did this with a few people we've had in the past: Care of pelirrojo on Reddit (link to post https://www.reddit.com/r/newzealand/comments/3emcr2/looking_for_advice_on_setting_up_a_flat/ ): I've been running flats for years now, and I've got it down to a fine art now. I'll address the 'keeping things smooth' part. First, make sure you have a written agreement with every non-tenant flatmate. Here is an agreement provided by the tenancy.govt.nz website - without this, they have no rights, and you have no legal basis for taking a bond, requiring regular rent payments or anything. With this, you have a formal arrangement whereby you specify notice period, payment amounts, due dates etc. Essential. Two weeks notice, two weeks bond, rent paid one week in advance is the minimum you should require; even in that situation someone can still leave you out of pocket if they disappear on rent; you'll still have to cover up to a month's worth of bills on top of the two weeks! Consider charging a flat rate for bills - you don't need to chase people up as it's paid every week; it is included in the two weeks bond; you have much less paperwork overhead; on the downside, bills get more expensive in winter and cheaper in summer so you'll have to manage that. If you do this, then you can also budget for cleaning products, toilet paper, rubbish bags etc out of this amount. Create a bank account exclusively for the flat; I'd suggest you make two - a current account for rent, and a savings account for people's bonds. The last thing you want is to go borrow money to pay someone's bond back because you've spent it. In terms of house culture - be picky with who you have move in. Better to wait for a couple of weeks and get a good flatmate than just get the first person who knocks on the door. Imagine if you had a good flatmate who moved out because you let in a bad flatmate - then you've got an empty room AND a bad flatmate. Be consistent & reliable. Lead by example. Don't be picky. Avoid passive-aggressive behaviour; if you have to bring anything up make sure you speak to them in person. You might like to come up with some house rules; they don't have to be strict, they can be very reasonable. They are a great way to communicate to new flatmates what the boundaries and expectations of the people living there are, without people needing to test each others boundaries. An example - one of the classic flatmate issues is: Steve's new girlfriend has been staying more and more frequently; she's pretty much living in the house, paying no rent and contributing nothing to expenses. Your house rules could state that "guests are welcome to stay, but if they stay longer than 3 nights a week then a contribution of $10/night is required." Make sure you get some emergency contact information from the flatmates in case you need to get in touch with someone if something goes wrong (accident, hospital, sick, etc). I make a document up for the new flatmate specifying move-in date, first rent due date, rent amount, and what days the rent covers (i.e. rent is due on Fridays. Rent period is weekly starting every Sunday) - this is really really useful when it comes to the flatmate moving out - this document lets you know exactly when their last payment is due, if they're one or two weeks in advance etc. The rent period is useful because it means they can move out on Saturday allowing the new flatmate to move in on Sunday. That's all I have for now; any questions welcome.

Yup, which plays merry hell with the stop / start system in newer cars. Plus they are then so busy farting around with their bloody phone that they then miss when the lights go green, by the time you have got on the horn and given them a blast the lights have changed to amber because they have detected no more traffic coming thanks to the f**ktard, they go roaring through and then you are stuck there on a red-light. I have found the best way to prevent this is a pre-emptive strike on the horn..

Just thought id share a couple photos me and my friend took the other day..

Did a wheelie. Needs a supercharger and e85.