Eagle

Haha. I dont know the previous owner is crying so much, sure the interior ain't for everyone but rest of the upgrades + better engine make it a far better car than the average wagon.

If you wanted to incorporate an arm workout into a brake job then its not a bad idea. If you wanted to skip the most of the workout but still remain a rugged kiwi then a longish flat blade screw driver would have been the better option.

Right. I just done for GST for the first time in awhile since 2x separate packages under $375 came at the same time so they decided to do me. I dont mind paying GST but its all other BS fees they tack on that piss me off. Yeah Amazon can be good and using Fedex, USPS etc, even though they ain't cheap they are far better than going thru f**king NZ post which you now have to jump thru so many hoops just to get your package its ridiculous. They have certainly teamed up with customs these days to increase their Youshop profits.

Cant blame the exchange rate as its been practically the same since mid '15.

Reason ive never liked fwd cars is they are generally harder to work on than a the rwd equivalent. Modern rwd BMW's are bad enough with cramped engine bays and dubious design, so im sure they will be even worse in fwd (or 4wd if you are a sucker for punishment)

Owned most the higher end ones over the years but using Uniden R1 atm as i dont need GPS. I think its better than anything else on the market for the price. Only issue is it wont pick up mobile speed camera vans because the K band freq doesnt cover that range, not a big deal given they are easily spotted. Mine is hardwired but i only really turn it on for long trips mainly as a passing safe guard

The M52 is likely best all round option and is probably the cheapest and easiest to find. The M50 is certainly the strongest engine with a nice top end . The M54 is more complex and more work on install, has more problems and is harder to work on compared with the others. It's a nice daily driver engine, but main benefits are mostly lost on a track car unless you are going to modify it internally.

Damn. Still doesn't make sense why anyone would try to sell (guessing insurance company in this case) or buy this thing. You'd have to pay to some to take it.

Seems everyone is trying their luck these days no matter what condition https://www.turners.co.nz/Damaged-Vehicles/Damaged-Cars-for-Sale/bmw/320-i/19059773

I know you'll get a good run out of it and its already miles better than your average flogged import. Mine has just hit 290,000km and while im going to give it another birthday soon to keep on top of things, most engine related parts are original and still in working order. I wish my paint was as nice as yours, open road driving and living outside really takes a toll.

Pretty much why i parted out all the extra on mine when one of the members here crashed it, then sold the body and running gearbox to another member who fixed it. I dont think mods really add too much value.

Yeah missed it but i dont know who would given it defeats of both options.

Regularly serviced doesn't hold much weight as it doesn't guarantee more than a oil change every 10,000km, air filter cleaned and had fluids topped up. Your car is probably on all the original old components and around the age\mileage where you start getting failures. Id still compare the plugs but a proper having a proper scan tool or a BMW scan system is going to give far more information then a generic code to help pinpoint the issue. We can all guess the problem but there's only so much you can do from the internet unless you want to throw money at. You didn't mention what it runs like at idle when cold.

Sorry sold in March

Pretty much. You don't need a spare for a Wof but if you have one on board it has the be in a secured in separate compartment, tread doesn't matter but the only low tread ones ive seen were clearly make that way on purpose. Cannot use different tyre construction type or tread pattern on same axle

Lots to go wrong on these engines. How many k's? any history of work being done?. Id start by checking the plugs.

If they are your typical Monroes like the Reflex then they have always been sh*t on any car in my experience., they don't even last long and have poor ride quality and handling. B4's or factory Sachs M sport are really your only decent option before the prices ramp up considerably. Cant hurt to get the old ones dyno tested if its cheap enough, i couldn't say they would automatically be stuff given we dont know their history. New ones will always be better but ones mans bank is could be another mans loose change.

Pretty standard affair when it comes to BMW and other manufacturers. Don't know specifically about E9X but you can generally use any springs without issue as long as they are from the chassis and have same cylinder count (pretty much what aftermarket manufactures do)

Awesome tool kit. Seeing the tool quantity shrink over the years is a laugh but given you a need a roller cab to work on a modern BMW it makes sense.

Bet most don't sell for asking though. No way that top one is worth 15k unless its had a good overhaul (which i doubt it in this case)

Just has poor inconsistent engagement and feel compare to traditional clutch so much harder to get a smooth shift using the correct clutch slip, driving slow in stop start is the worst, at speed or shifting at high rpm its ok Flywheel wasn't brand new which probably contributes a little but im certain its the SAC more than anything which isnt anything new. The M20 flywheel and clutch setup in the other car was much better even with the wrong throw out bearing, had no gear rattle either.

Personally ive never seen a sealed hub bearing (or diff for that matter) cause any vibration on in car, you usually hear start things start bad long before they develop play. Did they isolate anything else back there? CV's on a hoist are at odd operating angles also esp with the wheels on. Sounds like your suspension is fairly sorted and most constant vibrations ive had in BMW's were traced mainly wheels\tyres or driveline

Depends on your budget but for their price bracket Michellin PS4's are likely the best for your requirements

If you do convert don't get a self adjusting clutch and remove the clutch delay valve. Cant wait to throw mine in the trash were it belongs, utter sh*t.

Struts are bad. With good struts it take some effort to close the boot lid regardless of car angle.