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I went today just to have a look. Engine and gearbox were already removed - and they aren't listed in the sold section. I would say Pickapart is selling those separately - or got the car in a deal whereby they got the car minus the drivetrain. Anything M5 specific is basically already gone. The air boxes are still there along with the alcantara headliner and the seats. Although someone has used the back seat cushion to lie on when removing the diff. Rear brakes were still there and rear axles. Registration was MJF262 - WOF in 2020 cited 63,942km. Sad how that car only lasted 2 years here. WOF on the windscreen was from 2021...

Not much progress on the wagon in the last wee while, moved house and jobs so plenty on with all that. The new place has a garage! Pretty excited about this, a nice dry place for the wagon to live and a place to work on it too. Anyways, todays progress was a transmission service. Dropped the pan and valve body, replaced the 4 sleeve seals and bridge seal and threw it all back together with a new pan. Also replaced the mechatornic sleeve while I was at it. I used Penrite BMV which looks to work with Lifeguard 6 spec, will see how this goes in the coming months. The old fluid was very clean, I believe it was replaced before I bought the car. Was an interesting project having never dropped a valve body before this. Cool to see the inner workings of an auto box. Overall was a pretty easy job, dropping the trans brace and exhaust hanger helped to get to the mechatronic plug. Will give this a few weeks of driving before throwing an XHP tune at it, have heard good things about the tune, looking forward to seeing the results. Big thanks to Tony at TPD for coming in on a Saturday to use a hoist for this one.

That's cool (would be cooler if it were a touring though) "trade in special" is disingenuous at best, first registered in NZ 28/5/25.

Got a little bit more work done recently, been busy making a plan for all the suspension stuff and figuring out which direction to go for the clutch/flywheel. Decided to keep it oem and stick with a dual mass flywheel and oem 240mm luk clutch kit. Got all the underside parts taken apart and sandblasted, in the process of getting painted at the moment. gearbox is back from kayne Barrie now with fresh detents. More or less just need to order the clutch kit now and then can put the engine and gearbox into the car. picked up a e90 325i auto front half driveshaft and a e36 medium case rear half from @Toast which so far seem to work together, will see if they end up the right length. Paid $80 for the front half instead of the $700 people charge for zf 5 Speed Front halves nowadays. will need to swap the carrier bearing over to an e30 one as well. Fuel pump is back in the car too now ready to start replacing subframe, trailing arm bushings etc now and reassembling the rear end.

Gave the spare exhaust a quick lazy polish before bolting it up and dropping the car off at the shop. Even on the way there I still hadn't fully decided on the final course of action - whether to cut out the resonator or the secondary cats. Sound wise both would probably have had the same effect but the smelliness of it all was my main concern. Had the guys at the shop start up a couple of decatted cars to get a sense of what life would be like cat-free. Don't know if I got an objective feel for it or if my sense of smell had simply been decimated from sniffing all the brake cleaner fumes over the years but it didn't feel as bad as I had feared so cat delete it was. Somehow turned out to be a bit more work than I thought it would be, they cut out a bigger section than I'd envisaged but the end result looked really nice, the welds were tidy and the sound exactly what I was after. This was a progress photo they'd sent through, I forgot to ask for a full underside photo at the end. I'll be taking the exhaust off shortly to fit new exhaust gaskets, refit the damper at the back of the resonator and finish off the polishing mission so will take a photo of the rear section then. Loving the end result, the purr at startup is awesome, has a nice deeper tone to it throughout with a tinge of the signature BMW rasp. Loud enough to be enjoyable but not loud enough to be obnoxious so shouldn't annoy the neighbours too much. Once warmed up it's still surprisingly quiet at idle but definitely feel a bit more kick when giving it some beans. Took it onto the motorway to see if there's any droning but all good on that front too. The smell isn't nearly as bad as I'd feared as well, probably would only ever be an issue if left idling inside the garage for a while. VIDEO: Cold Start VIDEO: dB Meter Test VIDEO: Before Comparison with the 325i Exhaust Took it out for a quick bash along the hills the other weekend with @Carbon and his Honda mates, as well as a certain infamous M5. The muffler-deleted V8 and well as my newly opened up exhaust reverberating off the surrounding hills was a bloody nice soundtrack. Have now clocked up a couple hundred km's on the new exhaust setup and couldn't be happier, a nice finishing touch. Quickly running out of things to improve on this car. Thanks again to @Gaz for the hookup. Wifey called me a bogan as I pulled up into the driveway so that's the mission well and truly accomplished.

Just to add some extra thoughts for buying parts locally from the dealer vs overseas, with the assumption you're a personal (not trade) customer, when you buy from your local dealer the price includes GST, any import duties they have to pay etc, which the overseas store doesn't charge. Your local dealer also has to warranty the parts. When buying parts from overseas I feel like I'm accepting the warranty risk as it's highly unlikely I'm going to be able to return it at a reasonable cost. I once took the same weight and dimensions of a care package I received from an overseas parts store that shipped with FedEx for <$100 in freight costs , and the same package doing the reverse journey to the original sender was quoted by the FedEx NZ website at $1200 NZD. I know there is NZ Post but they also aren't necessarily economically sensible compared to the cost of the part being returned. I've tried aftermarket parts before, for example I purchased a "Rein" brand coolant hose because it was cheaper than a genuine one, but it didn't last long. I ended up going down to the local dealer and buying a genuine one and muttered to myself it would have been cheaper in the long run to just buy the genuine one to start with. I echo what @Eagle said, if there was a web site where I could see prices and stock, assuming the price was reasonable I would order from the local dealer more. They are always nice to me when I ring so this is about me not them, but I feel like ringing and taking someone's time up to find that information out when I'm not necessarily going to purchase from them is an inconvenience to them and I don't want to be an inconvenience so I avoid doing so and stick to web browsing.

Yeah I have seen a guy throwing wheels over the fence at PAP. So anything nice is removed. Do they still have those manky cobra chickens guarding the place in Mangere? Loved being hissed at while your under a car pulling parts.

Sorry if the sarcasim of the post has been missed. Let me try again… slapping a M5 badge on a 520i/525i/530d/535d (add your own model here) does not make it an M5 😝… same applies to all ‘M’ variants and model series 🤪 Chur!

I’d pick a 535/530d over a 525 any day of the week, m57s are fantastic

Got back to tinkering on this little nugget this past weekend. Since it was still misfiring, I decided to do a compression test to make sure the issue isn't with any of the valves getting jammed. Shockingly, the result was 225-230 PSI on all cylinders. I was a bit taken aback by such high numbers. I then noticed that I had disconnected the valvetronic motor and the eccentric shaft sensor plugs when removing the coils. Wasn't sure if it'd influence the results I reconnected them and redid the test, this time around getting 175-185 PSI on all cylinders. That ruled out compression being the issue. I then moved onto the smoke tester to check for vacuum leaks. Having removed the airbox and throttle body to insert the smoke tester adapter, I discovered a major f**kup, which turned out to be the cause of the backfiring - a vacuum hose from the EVAP valve was left dangling loose, unconnected from the intake manifold. It took a fair bit of force for it to clip in properly, not sure if I had missed it completely or hadn't seated it properly when reinstalling the intake. The throttle body and airbox obscure it pretty well so would have been easy to overlook but silly mistake on my part none the less. I went ahead and did a smoke test anyway, which didn't reveal anything obvious. I then took off the valve cover and rechecked the timing - all perfectly in time still. Got everything reassembled last night and did a quick test start this morning before running off for work - she now idles buttery smooth. Then took her for a quick test run after work - far from a pleasant driving experience as things stand, but at least she's back up and running! The tyres are barely holding air, the brakes are garbage, the steering is vague, the shifter sloppy and the AC compressor will likely grenade itself as soon as I press the button but felt a nice sense of achievement clocking up some 10km along some backroads for the first time in years. Will need a fair bit of love to be put back on the road but hopefully this means she's not destined for the scrapyard just yet. Happy days. It'll definitely need new tyres, and probably the rotors machined at the very least to pass but will book her in for a WoF to see what all she needs to be made roadworthy before throwing any money at it. Hopefully it's nothing major. I'm growing quite fond of this quirky little thing.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/other/listing/5391599987 @nath I know you're "trying" to thin the fleet, but also...

Hey Everyone, I'm looking to do a paddle shifter retrofit on my E90. i've had a look at my local pick-a-part and sadly nothing there. Does anyone have a steering wheel for sale? i think only the m-sport style wheels have the paddle-shifters for this car but happy to look at any good condition wheel with paddles that will work! Cheers

I ordered tires this evening. After much research I decided to go with the Bridgestone Potenza Sport. I had been planning to take the well-trod route of Michelin PS4S's, however they're not available in New Zealand (and importing tires was just going to be too expensive to make sense) in any of the sizes remotely close to what I need (I confirmed this with Michelin NZ directly), this was a surprise especially given I'd checked on their NZ website that those sizes were available here 👎 This meant I then needed to figure out alternative options. In Michelins that meant PSS's or PS5's (no Cup options available in NZ in the sizes I need). The PSS's are too old, and the PS5's while by all accounts very good had me a bit concerned about the softer tire wall than the PS4S. The RE050A's that I'm running currently, are fairly stiff in the sidewall department and while objectively terrible compared to modern options I am used to the stiffer sidewall. By moving to 18's I'm already introducing more compliance for a better ride and road stickability (that's the technical term 🙃), and I was a little concerned about also moving to an even softer sidewall as well. I then looked wider, and after a bunch of research, looking at what is available in NZ, settled on the Potenza Sport. The Potenza Race would be an even better option I think, but they're not available in 18in options. The RE71-RS's while the stickiness would have been giggle-worthy, don't give the same degree of feedback and would be impractical in wet conditions, so the Sport it is. TireReviews.com have a good review of it and on dry handling it's very close to the PS4S, slightly better in the wet, and ranks worse on comfort (due to the firmer sidewall), slightly worse on noise and worse on wear. The wear doesn't bother me as I won't do enough km's anyway, the firmer sidewall I'm okay with and the noise will still be a lot better than the RE050A's anyway. This is all splitting hairs of course, but might as well get the best option I can. Big shout out to @Palazzo for suggesting Costco. Bridgestone NZ direct have the best price out of the rest due to a special deal currently which comes to only $2376.32 NZD for all 4 tires fitted. Costco, for exactly the same thing, is $1379.94, plus in addition you get a $360 store credit as well. Given we regularly shop at Costco for essentials this means the end cost for the tires comes to $1020. Which is quite astonishing to me. That's significantly less than I paid for new performance tires for my 318i in 2007!

In Auckland, weaving through traffic, speeding, up someone’s arse, generally driving like a c@&t, “Oh, that’ll be a 320i then.” I always presume they’re rushing to the mechanic.

Comparison of the f8x M2 380/370 rotors and the dba 370/345 F-series M-performance rotors. Both use the same pads and same calipers just different ways of mounting to hubs.

I demand a 130i duel between @Driftit and @Jacko

I'm running 18 inch OZ racing ultraleggeras, you can't use m2 brakes with 340mm rotors. I will be running 370f/345r rotors as the F series M performance set up. I have the 380f/370r rotors which came with the calipers but these no way to mount the 370mm rears to the 130i rear hubs and I'm not converting to e82 hubs as my OZ wheels already have a very aggressive offset.

Hi, people! Im Javi from Spain (really, a german-argentinian guy) I have a e46 330d 204cv and a I3 REX (dont hate me, please...!!! 😂)... I build custom stainless exhaust systems (right away, low volume, just me in the shed), tune diesel engines and tons of many things more...!!! I like to be arround and see how things are done in NZ... i love your country...!!! 😃👍

Wait... so this IS an M5, but Pick-a-part are trying to convince us it's a 525i????? There's a change from the norm!

Currently got this setup with the BMWP bumpstops on my car and would recommend highly, they are definitely a bit stiffer than stock (relative to other e87 I've driven) but nothing too crazy. 100% a good OE-ish replacement for NZ roads!

Surprised no one’s pulled the engine yet. Nothing like a s85 with unknown history/condition

The rears are 33536788905, I don't think there were special front ones.

The 640D would be my pick. It was an option right? https://www.facebook.com/share/18on6YQHfe/

Of all the Alpina E46variations this has to be the most base model. 4 door auto. Seems a bit excessive.

I fix and install most parts on my BMW's myself. But as a parent my time is limited and sometimes it is easier to pay someone to do a job rather than put in the time myself. Recently I purchased a few parts off FCP to refresh my E36. All genuine or OE. I looked around for some indys nearby who could do the work (searched around BOP). Found one and listed the parts I ordered off FCP and asked if they could install them. Got a response saying they don't install customer supplied parts. I'll probably just find the time to install myself. Not a big deal. But it did make me wonder why. Has anyone else come across this? Why would it matter if I supply the parts? Can't be a quality assurance thing as I provided links to the items and they are all geunine BMW or OE. Is this something to do with the suply chain? Is there some kind of arrangement going on with parts suppliers at these workshops? Like I mentioned already. It's not a big deal. Just curious about why a workshop would turn down a days work just because a customer wants to supply parts.

I’d assume that any buyer would need to really like a car to pay whatever is being asked? Same goes here. They often came with LSD, mine didn’t. Like most post-2000 cars, these just don’t have the X factor of cars past, for me. A little flaccid looking.

I think the only way with this one, went and saw it twice. cage is just too nice to cut and its fully resprayed inside. Front strut tower welds are also beast and would not be DIY job. I'm pretty sure it is an M52B28 as it has a dyno for 180whp.

e30 325 re-listed for $30k at Rose city. Sure this was for sale at $25k the other week.

No, degreased the block about 5 times with a brush to make sure there was no oils and then hit it with a blow torch briefly to burn off any left over. POR-15 didn't seem to say anything about primer so just went straight on with that. Meant to run the engine for 15 min to full cure.

Friends got tyres direct from importer last year. A set of 4 was about 20% more than 1 from a (cheap) retailer. So somewhere between the importers margin and the retailers margin is a healthy number.

OP Here lies within one reason why workshops reject owner supplied parts 1) insurance, If the workshop should make a claim for total loss on your car for failure due to a service provided .. it will be inevitably rejected on the premise of owner supplied parts

Meeee-reow 🤣

PS5’s came to $1775.94. The fronts (245/40R18) were cheaper than the Potenza Sports, but the rears (255/40R18) were significantly more for whatever reason.

I recently looked at those for my S55 as they were the only good in my sizes along with the PS5's (both around $1900 trade). Upon reading reviews they didnt have the characteristics i was after for the car so i went with the PS5's. That pricing is insane in this day and age though, buying power that good or tyre shops got big markup, maybe both. Would of been interesting to see what the PS5 cost in the same sizing. May have to drive to Auckland for future tires.

Turned out to be the relay! Thanks everyone for your help, not just with the relay but also for pointing out missing screws😅 I'll be back soon with more things broken in my lovely leaker

Couple of updates: 1: The wheels arrived today 🎉 Mandatory photo, although we all already know what ARC8's look like 🙃 2: The male MAF sensor connectors arrived. I don't actually have need of these for myself, but I finally came across them and thought I'd order some to confirm they're a match and if so share the details with everyone as saves having to pay Turner money for their relocation harnesses. These things appear to be the exact same item Turner are using and they come with the pins and seals. I ordered 5 of these for the princely sum of $9.58USD total including shipping. per-unit price is $1.24USD. You can purchase your own (you can order singles) here: https://www.hdconnectorstore.com/productdetail/32496.html

I'd call the site sponsors, @HELLBM, and have a chat with them. I'm not them so can't confirm their stance on you particular need but I'm sure they'll hear you out at the very least. Edit: @HowieD72

Suggest you follow the procedure to the letter and have an app to monitor the temp.

you can always spot a 4 pot E9x in traffic. When it pulls away from a stop it'll leave a nice blue cloud of oil smoke. Avoid like the plague.

Have you checked Costco? They can order in all sorts.

Thanks for that. My car is going in to Greg soon. Nice to know I've found someone I can trust with my BMW's.

Greg's our go-to mechanic as well. Top bloke. Does everything from the classics to modern stuff. Coombes Johnson BMW in Hamilton told me they send the cars they can't fix to Greg.

It’s the small details that make the difference..

Greg was always good to us when we were in the area. E46, E36, F30 - all went through his workshop at one time or another. He was our go-to.

I think it's much easier to get across the line if you have a prior relationship with the mechanic, and are fully willing to take responsibility for your ordering snafu's if you get it wrong. It's probably also easier if they're "not" a specialist marque workshop and are willing to work on all sorts of cars - if you can supply parts / diagrams / torque specs its going to make their life a lot easier, as they might not have the same access to parts discounts when ordering from the dealer or OE supplier.

That makes sense. Lines up with what I'm thinking. Upside is I'm able to do the work myself. But would be nice to have a backup option. At least I'll be able to buy some more parts with the money I save 😁

Bellars Auckland North shore is the same - sign on the wall. I have a local mechanic that does my work and they will use parts I supply but when I first asked they weren't exactly keen 🙂 I've always imagined a profit margin in the parts dept right - they buy at a discount but charge customer full ticket so they would be missing that component perhaps.

Hi All, I'm just back into BMWs, this time with the might M6 V10. Keen to get to know people who may also have an S85. Keen to know the best workshops in Wellington. Also keen on tuning the transmission and possibly ECU. Was wondering of there are any local people who do coding for the basics like window control from key and the like. Cheers, bloody good fun and hope all is well

I thought the same thing when I first got mine and determined to do the same fix at some stage. But the more I've driven it the more I like it - up or down with either (or a single) hand. Not looking forward to going back to "normal" on a future vehicle now ...