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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=987670481 I regrettably need to sell my 1974 BMW 2002 Tii race car to make room for my latest purchase. The TM listing has history and details. Could easily be returned to road car if required. Please text or call with any questions. The car is for definite sale and needs to be gone by Xmas. Cheers Peter

What about this style? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blacked the badge and new decal.. I'll see if it grows on me. Half half at this stage.

Yeah. I'd luv to have one of these but it'd have to be in way better condition than this one. I have enough to contend with getting the 750i up to scratch..lol And frankly the wiring in that one scares the hell out of me.

Yup, I'll grudgingly admit I do like the Soarer. Nice one Michael.

I quote the ad: "Features include: - capable of... being towed."

You'll have more problems with the (N46B20)... these engines are sh*t

As some of you would have seen I sold my V8 1UZ E36 last week. Quite pleased, so now I've purchased my sixth Soarer coupe, but an ultra rare UZZ32 type, Toyotas flagship car back in the day, this is no. 32 of 873 made. These were sold for in excess of 150,000k NZD back in the early 90s. It offers 4 Wheel steering, active hydraulic suspension (replaced with coils, yet I shall endeavor to restore it to the hydro sus) GPS, touch screen a/c and audio controls, reversing camera, all the bells and whistles, quite easily one of the most feature packed cars of the 90s, 23 years on it still works (some simple repairs made in recent years) Plan is to restore it to a condition it deserves performance wise and cosmetically. In no particular order 4-2-1 headers, full dual exhaust of some variation. 5 Speed manual conversion Larger 4 pot front brakes Facelift side skirts Stand alone ECU + retune 17 or 18" BBS' classic / mesh style. Anyhow here's a few pictures pre cleaning. I only got it on Sunday! (cheers for the lift Earon, aka DSCOFF)

Time has come to sell one. I need to buy a house while this market is a bit more settled. Imported by Claytons in 03' .Ex SA press vehicle. 194km. Good tidy honest machine. 26k ono

Yes its for sale, Buy It! Or at least recommend it to your mates so I can buy another BMW. Thanks Trade me listing : 987624568 (paste doesn't seem to work?)

To the owner of the red E34 M5, Reg. TU5262, spotted on Akoranga Drive yesterday...........nice car, and great to see one of these rare machines in daily use (have seen this car on numerous occasions, crossing HB). But did you know that your throwing-stars are fitted backwards (maybe just the fronts)? A common error made by owners and tyre shops alike.

If its going to be tacky, it might as well be "straight from Aliexpress" tacky.

The proper option code for the full m-sport kit, or M Pack (SA337) often shows up as "M paket" on VIN decoder from the German info.481 Sports seats can be "upgraded" with the alternative Comfort Seats in the M Pack for 5,6,7 Series etc.

I actually had a nice lady from Fibrenew come out and see my car as a result of bga's thread. She took lots of photos and said it was certainly doable... never heard back!? My plans have changed since anyway so no loss.

It's back in the garden now. If it was still there you could have it for free, just pay for shipping

I think the 4:3 suits the E38 and the 16:9 suits the E39, more in flavour with the E38's style Not sure what's up with it though Dave, coding issue maybe but I thought the E38/E39 where all modular and interchangeable. be interested to see what the root cause works out as

How much for the hunk of moss on the front sway bar?

a cheeky hint never hurts .. Would be stoked if someone has (is) setting some competition to plates, especially in the euro plate sector.

99% of the time i would say go widescreen but in this case its clearly the 1% for me. The 4:3 wood frame unit is the winner

Holy $#!+ Really glad you decided to sell this instead of stripping it for track. Hope it goes to a good buyer who will restore it and put it back on the road. Looks amazing even in its current condition!

Or just stick with blue New M decal looks so much fresher

What spill the beans or keep his gob shut?

Do it!

I so want to jump in on this thread but I really need keep my big gob shut on this one!

Yep absolutely! I just suspect there is another reason for the temp issue. Do the pump first though. It is a matter of fixing the known issues first. Reminds me of a certain V8 Falcon sitting in our workshop. Have bloody near rebuilt the car it seems - one thing leading to 10 more Has done 450k though. Hopefully will leave tomorrow & stay away for a while.

even better yet..

Mine was much less than that but it was trade. Must say though - in this case - not necessarily convinced your water pump is the overheat cause though, Yes on the later units where the plastic impellers split & then slip. Cant say I have seen an M20 unit fail like that though. The leak will not cause this.

I like it. Matches the grills. A couple of these would finish it off nicely.

Dare I say - i did suggest you get the radiator checked by a radiator shop. I have used plenty of GMB units at work over the years without issue. When I found my E39 unit had failed on a Sunday arvo, & not having pre organised an OEM replacement, i went to Repco, had the choice of a Repco branded Chinese unit or a GMB at about $10 dearer. Closer inspection confirmed the Japanese GMB unit was too made in China Logic told me though - the GMB unit should still be better. Famous last words!

m sport over highline any day. even if it means higher ks or older year. also its not "m packet" but "motorsport" or "m-sport" or M or MS for short. also m sport suspension doesnt necessarily mean "better" as some people might not like the stiffer ride. Its generally considered better (my opinion also) but its not a one size fits all and there are surely a reason as to why some people order the Motorsport e61 with standard suspension

Well that is crap for the age of it. That said, the new GMB unit I fitted to my E39 lasted a week before leaking It had replaced the original that had done 150k before collapsing its bearing. Needless to say - I was NOT impressed!

As long as poultry is still icy on the inside it will be fine and can be refrozen without a problem. Once thawed it has to be at an optimum temperature for any bacteria to double every 20 minutes. Even if chicken is full of bacteria it will still be fine to eat as long as it is cooked. Lot's of paranoia out there.

I'm probably going to go look at it, will report back.

Z4's are gorgeous. Especially the coupes. E46 verts look decent too, but IMO the e36 does not suit being a cabriolet.

That's a few bodies, are they cut up? Double bag in garbage bags + ice

I like the tape repair to the driver's door.

^hahahahahahaha you mean my titanium flamed exhaust tips?

Fix'd.

needs factory grill and bonnet mounted badge else why own a Merc imo lol. at least it comes with it!! GLWS

I reckon the $200 it's at now should probably be terminal bid point... but it'll probably go higher, then get offered after the auction closes and someone realises what they just "bought"... Sounds like a nightmare, and who knows how badly it's been dicked with.

Hmmm, it's been a while since I shared anything about my Japanese toy on this German car forum. So here goes This morning I got a warrant for the UZZ32. It had been months since taking it out for a good drive so decided to head out east to some fantastic windy B roads. The car went so well with the new wheel and tyre setup, so much grip. The way the 32 handles on the tight bends second to none, totally effortless and builds confidence on top of confidence! Before my 32 ownership I used to ask an Aussie owner of 7 of these cars what 32s were like as a driving experience, while his comments gave me an idea of what to expect, actually driving one is the only way to really appreciate such suspension technology. I've never driven a car that can do what it can around the bends, it might be a heavy hector but the way it's composed makes it feel like a sub 1500kg machine with race prepared suspension. How it turns into the bends with such crispness really is the business, probably one of my favorite characteristics of the cars handling dynamics. A few days earlier I drove the folks Motorsport BMW 330i E46 on the same roads, a very nice car and plenty of fun to drive but it does require a lot more effort to put through the same bends and tends to want to loose traction easier than the UZZ32, tyres not the issue too as it was running high quality rubber like the Soarer is. Also notably, the BMWs ride was a lot more jarring and tiring than the UZZ32s when cursing at 100kp/h. Anyhow when I reached my destination I took a few pictures of my machine, only with my mobile but they came out alright. Enjoy!

Paging Klugan...

Which is pretty scary, considering how crap those engines are

Done and ordered. Oh my god. I just spent a cars worth in wheels. Ah well haha. You only live once right? To celebrate, I put my Front Splitters on. Choice

wow the difference between the old and new chrome is just wow

not sure if i can handle a crazy schnauzer puppy and manual at the same time tbh.. lol

The journalist writing that had a golden opportunity practically slapping them in the face to comment on the monopoly. Typical NZ Herald, weak reporting effort with no passion for their job. Probably hoping for another minor celebrity to fart on TV so they can pop it on their front page.

Not sure if trolling or not?...

Here's a complete list of what was done and what was learned on this project. Credit goes to the installer and tuner who with permission I'll post their details later. Vendor Details: Installer: Garry - Andrew Hollywood Motors Napier. Garry got everything sorted really quickly and did a really good job (total 40 hours to do everything). There were a few minor issues with things not fitting as expected or gaskets etc which were resolved quickly. Garry's familiarity with the E36 certainly made the conversion much simpler than having attempting it myself - thanks Garry. Tuner: Graham Neale - WRC Developments Napier. Graham did a very nice job, was very professional and manage to fit me into his very busy schedule at relatively short notice - thanks Graham. Basic Stuff: Me (cold air intake, engine loom modifications, ECU fitting, car electrics, electric fans) This project was to take E36 325i Motorsport Coupe and replace the old tired engine with something that still looks like the factory original but goes a lot better. Requirements: Everything must be bolt-up and look BMW factory standard albeit not original to this car. Must still look like a 325i engine and running gear. Parts Required: M50B25NV Engine Keep the M50NV manifold + injectors M54B30 donor crank rods and pistons Manual Conversion M50B32 6-Speed Box NZAD D1 Racing Clutch Kit + Lightened Flywheel 6.5kg (Trademe) Pedal box + master cylinder Slave Cylinder + other clutch bits. S50B32 Headers S50B32 Exhaust ZF Driveshaft Front Section (needs to be shortened for the 6-speed). Could not use a complete M3 driveshaft due to the diff flange being different. S50US Cams - used new Shrick 252/244 cams (Turner Motorsport) M52B28 Donor Engine for: Vanos Unit Harmonic Balancer Oil Filter Housing Vanos Oil Line Cam Cover Plastic Engine Covers Knock Sensors M50TUB25 Wiring Loom got mine from an auto so deleted all auto wiring + the MAF wiring from the loom. Link G4+ Plugin ECU New Fuel Pump New Fuel Filter Gaskets and Seal etc. M50TUB25 Camshaft Hall Effect Sensor Link IAT sensor Greenfilter POD filter + Cold Air Intake mod (custom by me). 76mm Inlet tubing to POD filter. Ally sheet + Eurothane Adhesive Surprises: The M50 Power Steering Pump does not bolt up to the M52 Oil Filter Housing and had to machine 15mm off one leg to make it fit. The M52 camshaft sensor was VR - expecting hall effect. Make sure you have the correct front half of the driveshaft before you shorten it (originally supplied the wrong one in the manual conversion kit and shortened it without noticing - duh!!). Installation: I purchased the engine already reconditioned and stroked to 3L with approx 3500k's on it. It was 3L M50NVstroker at that time with the M50NV head and cams. I decided I wanted the S50US cams + Vanos to get better bottom end torque + rev ok. I purchased new Shrick Cams from Turner Motorsport. These bolted striaght in with no issues. Had to use the M50NV cam trays and lifters. The M52 vanos was installed with no modification required to the head. I'd read some relief with a dremmel was required but maybe this is for the M50 vanos - did not need tomodify at all. The M52 oil filter housing was installed + oil line to the vanos. The NZAD D1 Racing flywheel and clutch was installed. The gearbox was connected to the engine. The wiring loom was installed. The engine and gearbox was installed in the car. Everything bolted straight up with no issues. The second driveshaft was measured and sent out to be shortened. There was a problem with the Camshaft sensor as initially the VR sensor was installed - this has the wrong plug to connect to the M50TUB25 loom - should have been the give-away here... Later the correct sensor was sourced and installed. The front section of the driveshaft was installed. The exhaust was installed. All done, ready to start. No modifications were required to fit the engine, gearbox or exhaust to the standard mountings. Problems: Engine would not crank. Had to locate the K1 start solenoid for the auto-trans start inhibit. On NZ RH drive cars this is located on the drivers side near the steering column - an orange relay on top of a connector block under the dash.. The relay was removed and the black/yellow wires cut off the relay holder. These were linked with a solder join + heatshrink. Now the engine cranks. Initially there was no camshaft pulses going to the ECU. The M52 VR sensor had been installed + a linking connector made to try to get it to work. This was a no-go and required a hall effect sensor (which has the correct plug so no adapter required). Leson here - the connectors don't mate then it's probably the wrong sensor... Camshaft timing sorted. Initially the M50NV harmonic balancer was used. This puts the crankshaft timing notch 120' out from the M50TUB25. The M52 is the same as the M50TUB so the harmonic balancer was swapped from the M52 donor engine. Now all the timing was good. Still would not start. Turned out to be no fuel due to the in/out being accidentally swapped - only mistake the installer made and not unreasonable given the two pipes are side by side... With the fuel problem sorted it started no problem. The Vanos Solenoid did not work - was faulty so replaced with one that worked. Tuning: The MAF was deleted so the Link ECU was tuned using only MAP, TPS and IAT. Dyno tuning was required due to the significantly different configuration to the base map supplied in the ECU. The fuel map was way out and far too lean initially. Once tuned it's really smooth and all surging has gone. There's very good transiet throttle response too. Learnings: Use S50 injectors as M50 are too small. Everything else worked out pretty well. Unplanned Costs: A few extra costs due to machining the Power Steering Pump and having to shorten the driveshaft + extra costs from missing the first dyno run due to no-start problems. Make sure it runs before sending it for tuning!!! I didn't try to start it initially as Link ECU's need to be unlocked before they will run. I didn't have a laptop to do this so left it to the tuner assuming everything was ready to go. All in all was a pretty good project with no major problems and no catastrophic mechanical failures along the way. Now to enjoy the new lease of life on the car.

Treated my latest family member to a set of H&R/Bilsteins with 18" staggered M-Pars.