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So I had my arm twisted by many people, including those on Bimmersport. I have increased the stud to 3m. And the bay width to 4m. To accommodate a 2 post hoist. They will also have a thicker band of concrete running through the middle where the hoist mounts. It will now be 12m x 7.5m by Totalspan. I'm going to put that resin type product on the two car bays and garage carpet the workshop bay. Line it with ply. Then will let my sparky mates come and overkill the power and lighting. Looking forward to it. This is the hoist. A mate has one and said it is great. I was worried it would fall into the cheap China junk category but the company backs them. https://www.automaster.co.nz/products/peak-2-post-base-plate-car-hoist

Welcome back, William.

I'd not use terms like "stupid", though I do agree that at least designing for a hoist - if you're not constrained by space - is a *very good idea*. You might consider one of those barn-style structures where the central bay is taller; this will keep your overall costs lower by only building the height where you need it. Do note, you;'ll need thicke/stronger concrete and/or more reo in the slab where the hoist will eventually go, so design this in up-front. In terms of power, three phase may initially cost more to set up (just leave it to the board, no need to reticulate until you have gear that needs connection), it pays off later as you're not competing with home-garage types when buying ex-professional workshop (often 3 phase) gear. Green building paper between framing and cladding as an absolute minimum. Pre-wiring is always easier when the internals haven't been closed-in. When you close-in, consider throwing in some batts - particularly if you'll be spending evenings out there. If neighbour proximity is a factor, the noise insulation may also help. Physical Security needs consideration in design phase, to keep out determined low-lifes as long as possible. You'll have a lot of tooling and parts locked-up in there. Window bars, door bracing etc. Will you install an alarm and or camera system? Then pre-wire for it. Solar panels, batteries, and LEDs will keep your ongoing power costs low. If you need heat in the winter evenings, what about a waste-oil converted pot-belly stove? Consider a dedicated flammables storage cabinet (externally-vented) or even an external shed away from your garage/vehicle shed. Paint/Fuel/Solvents/Lubricants all present a fire risk if an ignition source becomes available. Where will welding be done? (hopefully not near the flammables storage) Do you need a clean bench (or room) for engine or transmission build work? Where would a lathe and/or mill fit amongst all of this? Natural light to workbench is a boon, though not at night. As Elijah mentioned, consider air reticulation, and where your compressor will live is another consideration. Once you've figured this out, and freaked out on how much all these extra consideration are conspiring to blow your budget, figure out how you can add these items in stages. And then, invite the GCs from Bimmersport to your garage warming party. If it's a shed lining party ahead of the BBQ, we'll bring screw guns, hole saws, jigsaws and skill saws too. HTH.

Loosen up the moderation a bit is a good thing, personally I think a bit of jab back and forwards online is healthy and shouldn't be moderated. I haven't seen anything from 3pedals or M3AN that would justify anything worthy of even consideration of a ban (in any form), in fact the opposite (and ive been here for 12 years!) I moderate a few groups with a few thousand or so members, and sit on the council of a non profit organisations of a few thousand people... over judicious use of the ban hammer doesnt work online or in the real world and just causes more sh*t, and in the case of online forums its often the beginning of the end. On a BMW faceballs group I moderate, my policy is only banning people who install V bars, particularly those made out of garden hose and broomhandles.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/first-times-the-charm-bmw-e46-m3 DAMN!!

Get the sparkys to run the cabling before you line the walls and it will save you heaps of time

Banning or silencing members should ALWAYS be the last resort and is generally considered overkill and a bit gross.

and its AA verified!?

Pretty much the same thing isn’t it?

Watch “The Great Escape” there’s some good tips in there, depending how much soil you want to get rid of...

You need a center muffler if you want to make it quieter. Resonators won't do sh*t unless they magically nail the right frequency. edit: I still think there's a gap in the market for someone that can crunch the math and make exhausts with hemholtz resonators to eliminate drone using standard materials to keep costs down.

Defenders are like E30s. Most are over-priced. They sell, because the kool-aid has got to people.

#bringback3pedals

You seem to forget that I tried to do that very thing, but you then responded with an abusive rant. At that point it was clear that there was no reasoning with you. The fact that other members had both called you out on your comments and raised reports on them would suggest that action was necessary. After numerous posts had been edited, not just yours, gentle reminders and general warnings had been put in the thread you still carried on. Was always a slippery slope when the thread moved from how lockdown was affecting peoples lives into politics. FWIW I didn’t touch any account settings, wouldn’t even know how to tbh. Thought you’d packed a sad and taken your ball home with you.

I have never thought Politics or Religion discussions should be allowed on this Automotive Forum. There are other discussion groups on the internet where you can express your views. There needs to be an adjustment of the Forum Rules section on a number of subjects. These are in need of an upgrade

cant deal with that interior colour tbh. also doesnt make sense financially as its in the SI.

my place i need more land

Just dig a hole and bury it! ?

On a cruise from Mercer (fuel stop - car and containers as we can’t buy 98 here) to Whangarei at motorway cruising speeds and occasional outburst on the open road, around 230 kms, wait for it, 8.4. But, short trips around town, plus thrashing it sees that rise to 12.

Sweet fuel consumption really.

So how’ve ya been 3pedals? Any interesting projects going on?

Shuey’s guide to buying an E92 M3. Do the research, do a lot of research, find the right car (not so easy now, took me the thick end of three years), if and when you do find the right car, buy it! You won’t be disappointed. 2010 NZ new Competition Pack, 53K kms now. Owned it for just over a year and have no intention of ever selling it. DCT with GTS software upgrade (super quick gear changes and no problem with reverse), EDC, etc. Love it. Don’t daily it and don’t care about fuel consumption. Mine sits on late 11’s to early 12’s. I am not known for having a light right foot. Have owned E36 M3’s, not E46, but I have driven E46. Great car. But, for sheer driving pleasure, sure footed handling, an engine sound to die for, it’s E92 all the way for me.

isn't it just unfortunate that it has taken "sh*t to hit the fan" for things to start (hopefully) rolling again? i am pretty sure that some of the stuff that's been happening was never intended in the intent of bimmersport and maybe people need to loosen up a bit and try and find the good ole days? Has anyone heard from Ollie recently? multiple emails and calls still lead to no avail on contacting him

Yeah, got a new job last year and decided to upgrade the daily. Priced the 328 to sell and it went to a forum member within 24h of listing it. With the work done it was a good base for a manual conversion track hack which is what the new owner is intending. I'd link to the thread with the story but the incompetence of the mods/admins/whoever here mean that it's no longer available.

Seriously Jon? You're going to argue semantics on this one?

lol - I looked at those two pics and said to myself "Dave, you need to get rid of that sticker!". It shall be removed.

You won't regret that decision Dan ?

There are a lot of seals in a transmission but I assume you are talking about the Mechatronic case connector and the bridge seal between the case and the mechatronic and possibly the mechatronic to case tube seals. The Mechatronic case connector seal can be replaced by draining the fluid and removing the pan. The bridge seal and mechatronic to case tube seals requires the transmission to be drained the case connector removed and the valvebody removed. There should be no need to reset the adaptions unless some parts like solenoids or other parts are replaced. The adaptions happen through driving the vehicle and the adaptions "alter" the shift timing , pressures and duration according to wear inside the transmission so that the shifts happen according to a set of criteria programmed into the TCU. If the adaptions are reset the transmission has to relearn how to shift and adapt to the wear inside the transmission and engine, it also has to adapt to your particular driving style. If there is some shift issue, and a filter change and fluid flush doesn't fix the problem then there is usually another problem present. Resetting the adaptions will set the shift programming back to a standard set of parameters that will change/adapt according to the transmission and engine wear and your driving style over a period of time. When was the transmission serviced?? At 137k on the clock it should have been serviced several times, if it hasn't and the last service was only a drain and refill then the new fluid would have been contaminated by the dirty fluid that was left in the transmission. Depending on what fluid was used it should either be a nice straw colour (OEM Fluid) or a red colour with no darkening of the fluid or dirty streaks in it. If it isn't then the transmission needs a flush.

Depends on the tune and of course preventative and scheduled maintenance. If the car had the right spec, you could get the engine rebuilt and know that it’s good - not like the F10 is regarded as a classic anyway. lol.

Haha thanks man! In my dreams ? That car was actually my initial inspiration - I follow him on Instagram...

That's a fair price, you didn't get gypped.

yep.. this colour combo + so many nice wheels.. must have very deep pockets. Kind of reminds me of @Sammo 's e46 :p

Id just go grab a replacement exhaust from the manifold to the back box from a wrecker, there will be a few of them out there and I doubt it'll cost much.. Id say less than $300 (I suspect they're not that sought after, apart from people in your situation) And then with some new gaskets you can bolt it in in the driveway, and it'll sound like BMW intended As modelled by the dog -

My understanding is that IRS Cars have both rear wheels with some toe in from the factory as this promotes straight line stability, I believe this depends on how much geometry change there is as the suspension moves through its travel. Solid axle cars obviously have the rear axle to keep the wheels neutral but on occasion the axle location needs to corrected so both rear wheels pointing straight. Front wheels usually have some toe in as well, again this promotes straight line stability at the cost of directional change speed/feel. Some track cars will run no toe in and some even run a very small amount of toe out to make them super responsive to direction changes at the expense of stability. So as far as toe angle goes the rear is more important (Toe in) for stability with an IRS car. the fronts will generally have some toe in again for stability but you can go neutral or less toe in for improved steering. BTW toe in is a contributor to tire wear in some cases it can be as bad for wear as excess Camber.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing-2623569212.htm

if you get stuck PM me. happy to help.

Back on the road post-lockdown. As per last post I was having a challenge bleeding the clutch. Tried pumping clutch method (till my son and wife got fed up), reverse bleed, vacuum bleed and power bleed (thanks Nick from Weitz Ind. for the loan) but just couldn’t get all the air out and good pressure. So I ordered a replacement slave (waited a week from FCP), installed and still no improvement! So ordered new flexible hose into the slave, master cylinder from FCP (another week) and inlet hose and connector locally (Level2). Once I got the master out it was obviously toast with gaiter torn and weeping. Followed an excellent diy on how to replace the master and clean/re-lube the pedal assembly https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?785827-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Replacement-amp-Creaky-Pedal-Fix-DIY It is a real fiddly job in an awkward place. Having the drivers seat out imo made it a lot easier. Used the power bleeder, so easy to use just put a bottle of Castrol Dot4 in container, Connect to reservoir, pump up to 20psi, connect hose and catch-can to slave, open nipple, wait until fluid comes through and no air. Done. While waiting for parts I had collected some replacement door cards from Pick-a-part. They were from a 98’ coupe in grey, had a crack but otherwise great condition with no separation and pockets sound. Plastic top rails were broken but I had sourced some alloy replacements ex-Turtle Labs. Cleaned, repaired and painted the cards. Once we got to Level3 I was able to drop off to Master Trim here in Hamilton. I also dropped in the drivers seat which was well worn, separating and shabby. I sourced the material out of Arizona when I was in SoCal last year. While I had the seat out I removed the passenger seat as well and gave the carpets and seats a good clean. Master Trim had them back to me inside a week and what an improvement. Turtle’s recommendation is to place the top rail in its door clips apply the adhesive to the rail and I used Ados High Performance Adhesive Sealant which is flexible, handles heat and similar that used for mounting windscreens. Based on my research should do the job. Interior looks great now and even has that new car smell. Makes such a difference.

Wouldn't be an M car without bearing failure

I might just keep it for a few more months. I am using the Corona Virus as an excuse.

Yes, he certainly knew his stuff with turbos. He disappeared completely for a while, not even answering his phone from what I understand. He was on a lot of other forums and facebook groups that I visit and disappeared from those as well. Whilst bimmersport can get a little unruly from time to time (see above...) some of the Facebook groups are just brain damage, for every half intelligent post on there you get a hundred posts of "nah g, my cuzzie did it for half that price and it's all gudz" or some rubbish. I think it was that kind of thing that really got to Steve, and in the end he said, and even posted somewhere I think, "I've got more than enough business to keep me busy, so I don't need to keep arguing with Facebook experts" which is fair enough. The word of mouth reputation for Steve and his existing customer base will keep him more than busy, but as you say its a shame his advice that he was happy to give free of charge is no longer available.

When the blowback is worse than the original “crime”. ?

As a general point it is worth mentioning what constitutes being “offensive”. It is not a case of whether the person posting finds it offensive, but whether others reading the same post might do so. To avoid issues it is better to err on the side of safety and set a slightly lower bar. Hell, if I used my own personal standards of what’s offensive then there would be hardly any members. The chances of a small Kiwi web-site being involved in legal action over what is posted is pretty remote I would suggest. However, there is still a moral obligation to prevent offence being caused, whether intentional or accidental.

sounds a bit like our lovely government. oh whoops. not supposed to talk about politix here

Weird, you were warned twice in the political thread and then it subsequently restricted your posting and hid all posts started by you. I've re-instated your e87 thread, if anyone has the links handy to the other internationally acclaimed posts, link them here and i'll fix them. As per Glenn, the forum needs new leadership.

I couldn't help but notice how pleasant the forum was lately. Interesting coincidence.

I recently built a 9x7m totalspan myself in the same layout with two rollers on the side. I have 12 LED light battens in it, screwed straight up onto the perlins. Pleanty of powerpoints in it, double plugs, misture of 10amp and 15 amps dotted around the place. 4 over a couple of work benches. I also brought some smaller scale pallet style racking, only 4-500mm deep instead of the usual stuff which would hang right out. I find alot of height is underutilised in sheds for storage. I only have 2 workbenches about 1800mm long and a 1600x1600 steel topped weld bench. Do most of my work on the steel bench. Having limited benches means they dont clutter with unnecessary stuff and actually remain as work benches One other thing i done was a concrete 6m x 5m pad out the front with exterior LED lights, ideal for quick jobs that dont mean moving a car into the shed, you might already have a concrete drive, but for the extra concrete it gets alot of use out there! Coated the floor in an almost resin product, sprayed the concrete with acid, washed off and then applied the coating. For $200 its well worth it, no oil stains, can wipe up oil after months

Cheers for the ideas. It's unlikely I will go with a hoist. I could pop around the corner to use a mates one 100s of times before I could justify the cost. The most I can increase my height to before the cost starts getting silly is 2.9m. I'm not sure if I will carpet the whole thing. Maybe coat the two bays and carpet the workshop area. I can line the shed with ply for nothing as the father in law works for a mill. Good idea about the compressor having a soundproof box. Good time to upgrade it too. Was thinking of keeping it outside and running lines throughout the shed. Power is going to be sorted by some mates who are commercial electricians. Will sort me out with LED lighting and plenty of power. Lack of power points drives me mad so will get plenty. At the moment the two doors will be manual. I will install auto motors at a later date. As the cars that will be in there are not frequently used. Lots to think about. Makes me wish I had brought more tools back with me from the US.

Are you interested in a Mtech 2 car that has an m52?

Roughly same size as my shed, which is a totalspan. I want a hoist but hard to justify the cost.. technically my shed is my business location and fixing cars is not my business I carpeted my shed using garage carpet, its pretty hard wearing, have had it in for over a year now and its certainly nicer to work on compared to bare concrete... just try not to spill oil over it (is cleanable though) Cost roughly $1800 for carpet install, worth it. I lined the shed using ply, think its 12mm from memory. Made up some framing between the steel and screwed the whole lot together... no insulation or ceiling but much better place to spend all day/night in. Because its all screwed together, adding insulation in the future will be simple. Made a whole swag of benches up using pine laminate and screwing legs too them, worked out WAY cheaper than pre made benches and added benefit of being whatever size you want. Few pics from when I did it, and how it currently looks. If I ever feel rich again Ill sort a ceiling out and insulate it, but for the roughly 5k it costs to turn it from a steel box into a work area its pretty good value.

Would strongly suggest a hoist...