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The exhaust finally sold, booked in and had Hyperdrive come out with the mobile van to fit some Michelin PS4s. Absolutely chuffed with how much better the car looks vs the black wheels.

The Phaeton was VW's ultra luxury car, to compete with the S-Class, 7 Series, A8 etc. Shares the same platform & parts as the Bentley Flying Spur.. a poor man's Bentley! This would be a great buy for someone that has outgrown the Golf R32 (same engine) or Passat R36 or just wants something more unusual than a big Merc or BMW. This particular model is a Singapore Import, was owned by an executive limo company. Phaetons are all pretty decked out and this one is no exception (& has a few extras): 3.2l VR6 Engine - sounds as amazing as it does on the R32. Easiest & cheapest to service. Chain driven. 4 zone independent climate + rear climate screen Premium 14-way electric seats: heating, cooling & massage functions (front & rear!) Side Sunblinds + rear blind is electric Put the alternate front grille (from V10 model) I saved from when I had one of these in Europe, 8 years ago but looks fresh! Loooong Wheelbase model, stupidly huge rear seat room Double Xenon, Dipped & Main beams are Xenons which is pretty rare, but effective. Sunroof, Parking Sensors, Electric Folding & heated mirrors, Infotainment, CD Changer Auto close doors (aside from drivers) 4 Motion AWD - proper mechanical Torsen based, quattro type as in A8 Air Suspension, self levelling, adjustable heights (for snow, floods etc) Genuine Audi RS5 19" low offset wheels, were new, look amazing 4x Pirelli's, near full tread Servicing; I did the following (& have receipts etc): Complete front suspension arms upper and lower! Oil and Filter change (inc. cabin filter) Bonnet / Boot Struts Front Parking Sensors changed Replaced Power Tailgate (boot) module 6x Spark Plugs Rocker cover & spark plug gaskets New Mass Airflow Meter New Xenons / wiring harness Wipers & washer pump Headlight washer plastic covers - nearly every VW seems to be missing these (not installed in photos ) Rear Air Con controls fixed and screen replaced (its missing some pixels but works fine) Finally OZone treated the interior, leaves it fresh smelling and kills off anything and everything from the last 15years. Supplying parts I didnt need or use Water pump (appeared to be fitted recently), belts Thermostat & VW coolant pipe Leather dye, had some left over Note, the not great things Front lower bumper is cracked in spots Despite replacing all the front suspension, I couldnt get it perfectly quiet when cold, little bit of noise there still on really bad roads Most of paintwork is great, but some stone chips on front Pop up washers not installed (supplied though) Brake pad change alert popping up, due at some point in the future. Price these at about EUR450 for discs & pads front and rear, so not insane pricing Its a 15 year old luxo barge with about 190k KM, so some awareness of future TLC recommended! Asking Price: On Trade Me for $9000 buy it now, but will definitely do better for Bimmersport Members.

The only way to determine what you will need is by taking the gearbox out and to visibly inspect and identify the parts that have previously been used. From some of your questions I would suggest that this might be a little outside your abilities. You may prove me wrong. I’m wrong quite often.

Arh the Infra Red remote key. Here are some tips: The radio test works for the RF keys but not the IR keys. IR keys do not transmit any RF signal for the radio to detect. To see if the IR key is transmitting, grab a digital camera, turn it on and point it at the diode as you press a button. The IR diode will flash white if it is transmitting. See the attached on how to pair the key with your car. It's a little different to the RF key pairing instructions. It took me ages to find these instructions. They work and fixed my problem. With INPA you can look in the General module or ZKE and see if the key is paired to the car and working. There is a place where you can see a digital input (black dot) change colour when you push either button 1 or button 2. INPA also lets you fault find further into the system if the central locking is not working. You have to point the IR diode at the clown nose on the inside rear view mirror for the system to work. It needs line of sight. Not like the RF keys which work on radio waves. Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf

Looks really smart!

If you want to spend money outside of Supercheap, there are heaps of better options. Check out https://kochexperts.com/nz/ - rating their stuff ATM... In saying that, I am in the middle of a lockdown valet too - after a polish I am going with the oldschool combo of Powerlock and Collinite 845. Hard to beat the look and it lasts pretty well.

I ran the M3 mounts on my previous 130i and took them out after a few days as did not like the small increase in NVH. I fitted them supposedly at correct torque. Sitting in a box in case I change my mind on current car.

@leichtbau Funny you say that, when I looked at buying this car and took the initial photos the owner told me he was going to put a rotary in it. Originally the vehicle came from Northland 11+ yrs ago and in the engine bay it has a lot of aftermarket wiring and aftermarket gauges around the speedo cluster.

I'm phoning a friend, but 11 years off the road and no engine lines up nicely with a friends burgundy 13B PP T68 mt1 that is to this day the fastest car I've ever been in.

And start trying to figure out where it goes and what it is for. Next thing its 11:30 at night and you have this in your passenger footwell. The car had a comprehensive Panasonic stereo system with GPS navigation, TFT touch screen, reversing camera and DVD and HDD integrated into the OEM system installed in Japan. It is now back to the factory CCC professional stereo with re-coded radio frequency and the address book has been sorted to english for the Bluetooth phone connection. Next on the list is to add Apple Carplay/Android Auto to the OEM system. I am pretty happy with the sound from the factory speakers and twin subs so I am hoping to retain them as well as the popup LDVS screen.

2008 E82 135is. New to BMW ownership.

How are you going to get your vehicle to a safe working height and maintain that height in a safe manner while you work under the vehicle? You will need to have it raised in the font and rear. You will also need a friend to help with some of the work.

I'd say looking at that it's been wet and been submerged. Otherside of the PCB will likely have more corrosion. Possibly could work being resoldered, but could be dead, damaged beyond repair.

The membrane just sits loose under the rubber buttons and the board. Its not suppose to be physically attached if that's what you are meaning? Not sure what you can do with the board myself beside clean it up and re flow the solder joints if you believe its not working. You can get new key rubbers and membranes and probably a replacement board off an old key from wreckers. I bought some spare aftermarket fobs off aliexpress with membranes, chip, board but you can't screw them shut without buttons jamming on. Maybe others selling ones that work but these things are getting pretty old so less support. Dealer will probably sell you one for $300-400 if all else fails

So I found a bit of copper in the last oil change (wish I'd known that before faffed around getting a wof), which has kicked this project into the next gear, which was always the longer term plan anyway. I'm planning on a repower, thinking M54B30 based, 6speed manual, large case LSD, upsized half shafts and chassis strengthening to suit max 500Nm. Got an E70 x5 to get around in for the meantime...

Same. (Edit - Well the foam cannon spray type) The Koch Chemie protector wax is good. I also have liked the Fireball hydrophobic snow foam. I think they all must be pretty similar though.

I’m a big Powerlock fan, always great results

n NICE

Pretty sure Classic Cover do a multi car policy.

@Herbmiester you may have some useful experience/info here?

Nope

This is complete gold Murray @NZ00Z3, banking that one away for (near) future reference!

I did a clutch job on my 2.0L E36/7 (Z3) a couple of years ago. Went with the LUK dual mass fly wheel and clutch kit. Around $2,000 for the parts only. You are in the world of unknowns: - What engine has the E36 got? 2.5L or less and the 228mm clutch is good. > than 2.5L or forced induction/performance tune, 240mm clutch is the one you want. Both fit in the 220g bell housing. - Where did the transmission come from? E36 and early E46 have the same number of splines on the transmission input shaft. Late model E46's have a different number. This impacts on the clutch kit you purchase. - Duel Mass Flywheels are expensive, but they work well. Some single mass flywheels have chatter in neutral, others don't. Others will have experience here and can tell you what works. Suggest you remove the transmission and have a look before you purchase parts. Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. These can be used 1.5 times on average. They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block. Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times. Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change. This leaves you in a world of pain. Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place. Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access. Edit If you have a dual mass flywheel, you need to check it carefully. While the surface may look OK, you need to check the condition of the rubber between the 2 mases. I think the spec for the dual mass fly wheel is 10 degree of rotation between masses. Count the teeth on the starter ring and work out how many = 10 degrees. Grab the clutch and see how much rotational slop there is before the engine turns. Count the teeth that move past a fixed reference point and see if it's more than 10 degrees. If it is, then don't reuse the dual mass flywheel.

Yeah this is what we told customers to sell the more expensive rotors. Which came from the same factory and had the same lateral runout specs. We should make these into a nice site sticky. I enjoyed reading through them.

My N62B44 engine was faultless for 30k miles over 6 years. We had a few "other" issues though with the e60. Painful at the time but didn't break the bank...

We have two circuit pack GRs, and a DB9 on the boat now 👍 The Aston should arrive next month

sound like an engine from the production overrun bin

N52s are arguably one of the most reliable engines BMW has ever made, not exactly toyota 4AFE reliable, but still reliable and shitloads more entertaining than a 90s economy toyota engine. Whereas the 4 pots are less reliable than a 4AFE, and less entertaining. There really isnt anything redeeming about them to justify the reliability issues, spending money and time on solving problems on something that doesnt bring smiles when working isnt particularly appealing.

@dirtydoogle yeah even I'm wondering

I can understand your reaction, but as quite a few on here have suggested they would have jumped on it at that price, and the fact it has gone already shows it was priced probably below market value. IF that was a genuine M325i and not just a 325i coupe plus bodykit and most of the M-Sports bits were present - the bodykit obviously was, and no terminal rust, that would have been good buying and a really cool rolling restoration type project. The chrome wheels and purple paint, whilst not ideal, would not be a show stopper for many. Note to Self: Try spending more time in the garage with your actual cars rather than looking at other possible projects on the net... Repeat after me: I do NOT need another E30 project..

Bluey going well - pulls very strong (until I ran out of road). Prior to that had a real dumbarse numnuts issue with rear brake pad... not the first time I've done that lol. Also trying on M5 wheels, painted engine hood to remove mankiness, and fixed a twisty seat, removing 20 years of coffee stains and sausage rolls at same time. Had some concave dents in rear passengers footwells where someone had used a jack, managed to massage those back into acceptable shape with a large hammer and block of 4by2.. WOF next before getting out the sandpaper...

It's literally a five minute job to modify it - doesn't even need to be done nicely as the plate hides any F ups

Its also tag swapped..