Eagle

That's what i thought initially but Getrag 260, random clutch components, lock diff and having to undo who knows what. Probably better off buying a tidy msport and doing a decent 5 speed conversion yourself.

I was going mention the thread title but thought otherwise. I don't want to see Mac vs PC discussions getting banned too

Man that flare must of had some big hours invested into it. Sounds like the mechanical side is going to need a lot of that along with a chunk of your hard earned cash.

So did i but i fail to see how that's anything to do costs which is what's being discussed. PC's have advantages and disadvantages just like Macs, no one here is denying that and you buy what suits your requirements in the end. If anyone wants to label me pcmasterrace for critiquing the costs, that's fine. I'll burn some old ipods i have in my draw to as a sacrifice to the PC gods.

Struts rarely fail internally as they are just a hydraulic ram but the mounts and more so the seals can perishes causing noises and leaking. The 2x Pressure accumulators - round cylinders above or round the struts are what controls the dampening, the internal diaphragm have typically failed on these old cars causing the harsh ride. Last time i looked they were about $350ea if still available in NZ and you can't import them as they are dangerous goods (pressurized chamber) So you either have to buy new parts, delete or loop the hydraulic pump and replace it with non SLS strut\spring setup

Sounds like you think its bs purely on your anecdotal experience. It's a fact Apple will never win as far as costs are concerned, be like arguing a VW Golf is cheaper to keep than a Corolla. I could buy PC hardware from 15 years ago for chump change, have working up to date OS, and it would still be serviceable and upgradable, you going to tell me you can do the same with a 15 year old Mac. Likewise If i bought a top of range Mac and the equivalent PC today its a given that i will likely be able keep the PC in service longer(software and hardware). The Mac will always you cost more as you are re buying more frequently to stay up to date and paying for the brand when you do. That's not even taking into account Apple's repair policies\costs if you are unfortunate to have an issue outside or warranty.

Yeah i don't follow them but would of thought they would go with something more special or turbo a BMW 6.

Yeah looks awful given the rest the car looks clean. Looks like some sort of projectiles have been hitting it.

Yeah the 5HP24 doesnt appear all that reliable to start with, combine that with lifetime fluid changes and its no surprise most don't want to spend the cost of their car on a rebuild.

I don't like Windows 10 all that much but nothing hard or greatly unreliable about for a usability point I agree that buying Apple products is like buying a new BMW - overpriced, only want authorized dealership working on it, will try to sell you a new one if it fails\becomes obsolete outside the warranty period Apple products do have advantages but they will always cost you more in the long term

At least its just about down to routine servicing with the big bills have paid Who did the transmission work?

Cant recall if mine worked after, it well have. One of those features ive never used anyway.

I've got a few different types but depends on the car. I use the traditional 2 twin hook ones the most as they offer best clearance around strut hats.

Front bushings. You may be off replacing the whole arm long term though. If the ball joint fails on your new bushings then you are going to be buying a whole new arm. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-e81-e90-e65-e66-meyle-31120304308my https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-assembly-front-left-front-31126769797my https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-front-right-front-e88-e89-e90-e91-31126769798my If you running without required hub rings then thats likely your issue

Never had one in my old car. Just set mine to manual mode and adjusted them with the level control on 0.

Code may well be the same but its not translating it properly to the specific vehicle. It shows correctly correctly on other vin decoders.

DPF=no cat convertor. Decoder must of translated wrong as option code is correct.

Depends what state of the engine is in. I usually end up going over the whole ignition and fuel system which usually helps - New plugs, filters, distrubutor, rotor, valve and afm track adjustment, clean injectors, sometimes a set a leads followed some high rpm runs. My old NZ 535is with 330,000 on the clock dyno'd 127kw atw on Torque performance dyno in Auckland. While they don't have that low down pull compared to M\N5X stuff with variable manifold and valve timing tech, i still think they still perform well given how old the engine design is. Sounds like someone has spent some $ on the suspension which is always a good sign.

Should look quite tidy once that front bumper is repaired and painted. E34's hold up quite well. Its a legit NZ 535iS spec so has all the usual options

Ive had mine for about that also. De-lidded running 4,5ghz @ 1.16V but it can do 4.8-4.9ghz iirc. Yeah waiting for pricing to settle is always the best move in my book unless you actually need a new PC. Never actually bought a Intel cpu new so its great AMD have stepped up their game these last few years.

If he's spent that sort of money on it then you'd think he's addressed many of the common failure points and more. To me the main issue with the average 335i on sale here in NZ is lack preemptive repairs; most have next to no service history and are likely on many original parts given the age and k's.

Ive got a ACS front lip off my old car you can have if you like, it's painted in Orient as well but got a crack in the fibreglass repair the PO did. I can probably drop it off when i go upto Auckland.

Both

Brand new Rear Sachs 556-882 msport shocks for E36's (excl Ti) and E46's

Yeah sorry about that jinx