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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/12/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Everytime one of these comes up for sale the amount of crap comment that gets generated blows my mind. I am going to bury mine with me when I die just so I don’t have to deal with these type of comments 😂😂😂
  2. 6 points
    Installed an Apexi Neo AFC to dial in some fuel corrections today. Making good power before the tune, peak of 177rwkw, but the low end was a bit poor so the tuner put in some more fuel down low and got a decent 10rwkw gain through most of the low to mid range! Now with a peak of 178.1 rwkw, so very pleased. Certainly pulls well in the lower rpm band.
  3. 5 points
    Really proud of our forum seeing this thread. We have a new member here, very little posts, but already made a nice little contribution post to the other newbie asking about first car in the other thread and also managed to get offers for help from complete strangers on this forum with lending tools and advise. What a stark contrast to..
  4. 5 points
    cant argue with that on Flickr
  5. 5 points
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    if you dont like them, why even go to the effort of bringing it up? Either buy the car and fix them yourself (which is cheap), or just go away. In regards to the price, go buy another CSL, right now. You cant? Well thats why the price is what it is. Also cant remember the last time i saw a black CSL available? Oh and alcantara goes smooth and shiney if you so much as look at it. I wouldnt say its "overworn" but maybe hasnt been properly cleaned in a while. It can be easily restored. Its not like the bolster is torn through or torn.
  8. 4 points
    But E34 is the prettiest BMW of all time!
  9. 3 points
    https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/aussies-engineer-a-v8-powered-bmw-1-series
  10. 3 points
    The weather has been miserable and I'm working outside so progress has been slow but I got the replacement sump on and all torqued up on Saturday. Looking forward to a fine afternoon tomorrow when I'm hoping to put it all back together. Found a pro-tip for keeping the gasket in place when putting the sump back in... cable ties! Clip them off after you've put a couple of bolts in to locate it all. Worked a treat. Edit: remember to only put cable ties in places that will be easy to reach after you've mounted the sump! Two at the front on opposite sides as in pic and one at the back on the RHS is enough.
  11. 3 points
    But what about the global warming? :p
  12. 3 points
    5000 is all it is worth, . but i give 5k cash for it.. all it is worth, no interest on trademe !!
  13. 3 points
    No so sure about that. When you are listing the car as "totally original and immaculate" and "collectors car" then surely that is what it should be. Putting black grilles and cheap trademe carbon splitters onto a CSL and then calling it "totally original" is a bit of a whopper if you ask me. And to be honest, detract totally from the car. Easily corrected though you would hope!
  14. 2 points
    Common misconception it is NOT Min Max it is a range You set the various angles within the range but you MUST MATCH them i.e if the figures for Caster are 5.7 - 6.5 then this does NOT mean you can have one at 5.7 and the other at 6.5 it means you can run Low caster - both at 5.7 or you can run higher caster with BOTH at 6.5 ( or any where in between as long as they are matched. The issue looks like the rear toe its RUBBISH and the thrust is at .07
  15. 2 points
    I enjoy being a grumpy old man, I thrive on it lol! Everyone’s entitled to a general value opinion, but how many are actually in the market for one? Or can afford the asking price. Cars like this will yoyo in value depending on what’s out there and the demand for it - Heck I think the person that paid $100million for that Classic Ferrari is crazy, but I am not even in the same league as those bidding on that Ferrari (not even close) so who am I to say it was overpriced or not? Reality is you can’t build a 1:1 replica CSL for the price of buying one now days assuming you can source every single part. Sure you can build a replica using replica parts for cheaper and get the same thrill so there’s always that route. But it’s not the same - different strokes for different folks.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    They were never offered with the dogleg g245 that mates to an M20, it's a g260/5 which has closer ratios 1st-4th than a regular g260 - see attached. A 1:1 5th gear and a 3.73:1 diff in SA would be absolute madness. The E30Zone article is riddled with errors - they're parroting information that Andrew Everett of "E30 Restoration Bible" fame got wrong well over a decade ago which has never been corrected. When I weighed them, from memory they were 2kg weight saving at best - they're an ally skin wrapped over a standard E30 internal door frame (older panel beaters will know what I'm talking about). The front guards were ally pressed over a mould of a guard as they're so thin and easy to replicate, and I imagine the bonnet was also skin over frame
  18. 2 points
    Some packages arrived today, its like christmas 😄 Kassel performance m50 manifold kit and parts to delete asc from pelican, Also pictured is new metal impeller water pump and thermostat housing. My next order will be from beisansystems, i promise 😋. Im trying to replace as much as i can before the car hits 200,000km, its sitting at 199,6XX right now.
  19. 2 points
    Thanks guys! I will definitely add that meet to my interested list but at the minute, I'd be scared to attempt a near six hour drive in the old girl. Need to look into a sticky throttle, most likely needs a new cable, wherever I'd find a reasonable priced one of those over here, and then get a full set of new tyres but, at least I've got time for that. Eventually, I'll get the bumps knocked out and get a respray but to be honest, I'm fairly proud of the body. One last photo before I head out creating more direct threads etc. From Caffeine and Classics in Takapuna last month.
  20. 2 points
    Hi team! My name's Jonny and I'm from Northern Ireland. I recently moved to NZ with my partner to the East Coast Bays, where she grew up. I've never owned anything close to a classic before but I've been given the opportunity here to have and work on a beautiful 1990 320i. I've never worked on cars before but i know that these older vehicles suit the tinkerer a lot more than modern computerized vehicles so I've decided that with this in mind, this E30 will be my project for the next few years. I've already done some minor fixes, repairs or maintenance tasks, many for the first time in my life and I must say, I'm hooked. The Mrs already rolls her eyes when I start talking about what I want to do in the future, so, I figure that I must be doing something right..? Anyways, that's my little intro, I hope to become an active and valued member but mainly, I'm here to leech knowledge from you bimmer wizards until I have something I can contribute to and know that I have inside out knowledge on. Thanks for having me!
  21. 2 points
    Thread has been tidied up by myself. Lets keep the comments reasonable please.
  22. 2 points
    How about starting a thread on your M3 - I would love to see it. And also your ford escort - I built a 1976 rs2000 replica as my first car. That might be a more constructive way of introducing yourself.
  23. 2 points
    If you are interested in cars, and to explore the dynamic of the car, learn proper car control, and like to learn to work on cars, the late 90s, early 2000 BMW is the best car for that. I am a uni student as well, I have an e36 with M43 that I use as a platform to learn to work on cars. Parts are cheap, and most importantly, there are many of them in pick a part. I bought mine with $500 with a leather interior like new, but everything else is rubbish, no rego, no wof. I have only used parts from pick a part a part from some powerflex bushing, now it drives really good. A few trips to pick a part, you can pretty much rebuild the cooling system and suspension with almost no money. I have found almost new water pump, all alloy radiator, metal thermostat housing, structs in really good condition, near new tires with alloy wheels already balanced for really good price, Get an e36,e46 with colour like silver or dark blue, you don't even need panel beater if you happen to have a minor accident. Comparing to other euro brands of the same budget, BMWs are so much better to work on then Audis, Vws , and Benzs because the problems are well documented. And because they are BMWs they have likely had a stupid previous owner who knew nothing about the car, you will never run out of stuff to fix. the engine wise I would say get an e36 or e46 with 4cylinder if you can't afford petrol. E36 with M44 5mt is the best option, but e46 with M43tu is also good, the power band of the m43 is quite narrow. it is dangerously slow sometimes if coupled with a 4at. I found the 4at from GM terribly bad. it's a "close ratio" 4 speed, meaning it's revving too high for the highway, and gearing way too long in first and second. But they still managed to achieve a very hash shift, it's remarkable. The torque converter clutch lockup logic is the stupidest of all 4at I have driven. 4at use 20% more fuel than 5Mt. The only reason to go for a 4at is that they are half the price of a 5mt. The inline sixes are nice, they are slightly more eco on long drive because of the final drive ratio and higher engine compression ratio, but 2.0 inline six use almost the smae amount of fuel as the 2.5 and 2.8. Inline six coupled with 5at gets very bad fuel eco in city stop and go traffic. In Auckland rush hour you will get 14~15L /100 with auto inline sixes. 5Mt will be like 11~12L while 5MT inline four will be 10L. 11L is it is 4at . Do not test drive an inline six BMW if you can only afford an e36 with 4at, they are addicting and there is no way back. I borrowed an e46 325i 5mt for two days, and now I hate the m43 every day. E36's slow steering rack is perfect for learning to use the steering wheel correctly(which 80% of the driver in Auckland don't). E36's soft suspension is good for some of the bumpy backroad. the power of E36 318is with 5mt allow you to go flat-out everywhere and still can slide around in the wet to make it exciting. I honestly don't know why old Toyota Corolla is so overpriced, and people still buy them. many models from Nissan from the same era provide similar reliability at half the price.
  24. 2 points
    Had two parties view both wanted to buy it but one couldn’t get enough finance and other waiting on insurance payout. Worth the asking price for sure so no thanks to your 5k offer
  25. 2 points
    It was on the road and driving for wee bit. I did bunch of maintenance items to get the car up and running, namely a wheel hub that was gone and some lights. Engine was my biggest problem as it had all sorts of developing issues that were a pain in the bum to resolve. The misfire and vacuum leaks being the first. I went through and replaced the entire ignition system - including the spark plugs which I replaced with ones that the M70 community recommends rather than the superseded OEM part - to remove the misfire. The vacuum leaks came from the damned intake to head rubber gaskets that had all cracked because the intake supports on the outside of the engine had completely failed and were straining the gaskets, so I replaced them with some custom solid mounts out of coupling nuts and sealed the rubber gaskets with a wee bit of Royal Blue. It got taken for a nice long road trip from Chch to Picton where it performed amazingly. So effortless on the open road. Exactly what I wanted. I even towed another E34 (parts car) up from down south with and it basically used no extra fuel despite the doubled weight. Actually awesome. But then I had strange over fueling issues (fuel avg. consumption would go from ~10-12l/100km straight up to 39.5l /100kms, which I'm pretty sure is just as high as the display goes rather than the true value), gearbox problems (massive lurch after shifting into reverse that shudders the whole car and other reluctant gear changes), and the odd bit of overheating. Then the smoke came. So I checked, cleaned and set the throttles, fixed exhaust leaks, traced oil leaks, found more developing vacuum leaks, replaced crankcase vent pieces, dropped and checked fuel tank/lines, tried some different oils, swapped ECUs, swapped part like FPRs and throttles from bank to bank. But nothing worked: the oil smoke under acceleration only got worse and overheating became more common. Current theory stands at minor head gasket failure that has developed into major failure on 7-12 cylinder bank. About 250hrs of work on my part only to be beaten again, though I can now take the intake manifolds off in my sleep. The straw that broke the camel's back through was the tandem pump - that supplies hydraulic power steering and power brakes - got a major leak and requires a rebuild. Car simply can't be driven without brakes or steering. To be honest it doesn't really surprise me, the more I looked through the car the more evidence I found of the car having been flogged for 'skidz' between the time you (Andy) owned it and I got it. It's clearly been through some unsavoury hands. Sigh. At this point the issues practically require an engine and gearbox replacement as parts (even just a set of head gaskets) far exceed the value of a 'new' engine and gearbox. Sadly I've yet to get to that point as I've had to return to my other ongoing project car (MR2 AW11 getting a built 7AGE) and it will have to sit until I return from Europe later this year. I'm sorry for the lack of updates guys, but it will return to the road. Hopefully better than ever.
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