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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    Okay, it's been a while since my last post, but the car has still been progressing. I left off with the exhaust on the ground waiting for exhaust gaskets, and needing to replace the valve cover gasket. The parts arrived, so I got on with it. With the arrival of the exhaust gaskets for the manifold to center section flanges, I could refit the exhaust. This thing is a damn beast, but with some carefully juggling, wiggling and bolting, I got it back into place. Just as a quick side note, when cleaning up under the car I noted that two of the nuts I removed from the giubo were completely wrong. That wouldn't have helped the balance of the drive shaft. They all got replaced, as they are Distorted Thread locking nuts. The top of them is basically squished and distorted, so when you put new nuts on, they bind on the threads and wont come loose. Reusing them is a no-no, because they will no longer bind like they should. Similar concept to Nyloc nuts, but can handle higher heat. With the underside work done, I could finally refit the wheels with new rubber on them and lower the car down a bit and finish the work inside the car. I needed to refit the clutch pedal, as I had removed it to replace the bushes. I tried some flashy delrin bushes, but unless I removed the whole pedal box and fitted them on the bench, there was no way I could press the bushes on in the car, they were just too tight. Instead I went with a pair of new OEM bushes, slathered in grease. Thanks to the bolt I fitted that was missing from the pedal box, and the new bushes, the clutch pedal feels much better now; it doesn't move off the side, and I don't hit the dead pedal now. The other thing I wanted to do whilst under there was to replace the throttle cable, as my original one was well munted and made the throttle sticky. It was also ugly, and I don't like ugly. Removing the cable was easy enough, once you get the plastic clip out of the firewall (have fun one that one), it was just a case of pulling it through the engine bay and disassembling where it attached to the linkage. This is where it all kinda went wrong, all over one tiny little stupid (but crucial) bit of plastic. As I was attaching the white plastic clip back on the end of the cable so it could attach to the linkage, I dropped it. Of all the places, and things to drop, it was a plastic clip, between the 5th and 6th intake runners. It didn't come out the bottom, and I couldn't go magnet fishing because it was plastic. I tried moving and jiggling things in the area to see if it would drop down, and even lifted the car up and tried to fish around with my hand from underneath to find it. It didn't work, I had only one option left. The whole intake had to come off. Thankfully removing one isn't too hard, and it's something I had done before on my old M3, it's just bit of a prick to get at some of the hoses and bolts. Oh there it is, sitting on the starter motor... This little bastard. I then proceeded to immediately drop it again; onto the floor this time, so until it was ready to go back on, it went into my pocket. Having the intake off did give me a chance to have a quick look around, and give the throttles a quick clean, so it wasn't all bad. Back together it went, and on went the new throttle cable (assembling over a large rag, so I wouldn't drop it again. See, I learn from my mistakes!). Whilst setting up the new cable I encountered two things that made me facepalm. One, the throttle return stop had been mangled, and bent back. This stop is what stops the throttle pedal linkage going back too far when you take your foot off the pedal. If it goes back too far, there will be too much slack in the cable and you will never adjust it out. No prizes for guessing how I found this issue. I bent it back as flat as I could, which made the pedal sit better, and allowed me to correctly adjust the cable. Being bent back was no accident; it took a lot of work to bend it forward again, so I can only suspect it was done intentionally to compensate for the stuffed cable. The second issue, was that the throttle stop was badly adjusted. On my car because the shell was originally auto, instead of a normal solid "stop" under the pedal, I have the kickdown button still. The throttle stop/kickdown button sits behind the pedal and is what stops you putting pedal to the metal, or more accurately, damaging the throttle cable by trying to pull it further than the throttle plate will allow. On the flip side, if it's not adjusted enough, it will stop you getting to Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The whole thing is on a thread and screws into the floor, but does have a locking nut that stops it goes in too far. On my car that locking nut was wound way out, which meant that the stop couldn't be wound in as far as it needed to be, which means by the time the throttle pedal stopped, I was only seeing about 3/4" opening, not WOT. No wonder this car felt slow! I wound the locking nut down, and wound the stop in enough that when the kickdown button (which now does nothing but offer some nice physical feedback through my foot when pressed) is pressed, the throttle is 100% open. With that mess cleared up, I moved out of the interior and into the engine bay for one last job for the day. The valve cover gasket. I noticed it was BADLY leaking down the back corner, so ordered a replacement a while back. I had intended to rebuild the vanos whilst the cover was off, but decided to postpone that (for reasons I will explain in a later post) and just stop it leaking. Replacement is easy; Remove the coils, a whole bunch of bolts, and then the cover itself. When removing the coils, you also need to move the loom out of the way, so I rest that on the strut tower. I didn't notice, or remember, that the coil connectors are actually numbered via a small brown plastic tag on each wire (as seen in the photo), so instead I put a small dot for each coil it went to (1 dot for coil 1, 6 for the 6th coil) with a paint pen. This is the connector for coil 2. The dots are covered by the locking clip when assembled. It never hurts to over mark things before disassembly. And off comes the cover. It takes a lot of wiggling to get the back to clear the cable holder and the rear cam cap, but it does fit. This is the corner that was leaking. The gasket wasnt that old, it must have been replaced when they did the head work, but for whatever reason it just didn't seal here The other leak I had was a bad one into a couple of the spark plug tubes, via the rubber washer on the bolts. I ordered a bunch of these (you need 20x btw, I came up two short). The old ones were hard as rocks and shorter than the new ones I cut them all off the bolts, and pressed the new ones on. I slathered them in red rubber grease, and used a socket and a hammer to press them on. Much quick and easier than doing it by hand. Pop the new rubber washer over the threads, hold the socket on top, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer until it pops over the shoulder. The new gasket was then fitted to the head, with a small amount of sealant in the corners of where it goes over the cam bridge in the front, and then back on the cover went. The bolts were then refitted with the new washers. Now, with the bolts be VERY careful refitting them. They are too easy to pull the threads out of the head if you over torque them. In this case I did them to 8NM working from the middle outwards and all was well On went some new coils, and it looked like an engine again. Some testing shows no signs of leaking anymore, which is good. The clutch pedal and throttle feel much better, with less slack and more immediate response. Unfortunately despite replacing the bushes in the shifter, there is still too much play (although FAR less than before), and it appears to be coming from the joint at the bottom of the shift lever itself, so that will need to be replaced, maybe with a short shifter? The biggest disappointment is that despite replacing the coils and checking the spark plugs, there is still a very noticeable misfire at idle. It sounds like the old girl has some wild lumpy cams. I'm working on this now, so hopefully I can nail it soon.
  3. 3 points
    I think they'd want an asset, not a liability, for collateral.
  4. 3 points
    Wa-hey X4M! The high riding hard version of the soft road SUV version of the 4 door version of what was supposed to be the two-door line split off of the 3 series line! Exactly what we have all been waiting for all this time. I was just thinking this morning that it was time they made an X4M, it was inevitable really.
  5. 3 points
    Damn, over $1,000 already, too rich for me!
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    I'd take the alpina in this case over an m5, because diesel and uncommon. I can only imagine what an alpina fiddled diesel pulls like. They do kinda target two very different markets though, so hard to just say "but that's m5 money". That interior/exterior scheme is lush.
  8. 2 points
    Smoking a marinated, aged, half rump steak today. I make my own marinades and rubs
  9. 2 points
    In spite of this being more powerful, faster, more fuel efficient and better off road than my M5, I WILL NEVER WANT ONE!!
  10. 2 points
    Yet another issue that was discovered on the car was that there were signs of oil leaking from the bottom of the vanos solenoid cover. This is a clear indicator that the solenoid seals are beyond their useful life. The other issue I noticed was that one of the bolt heads was missing from the cover, so that needed to be addressed. They are common for breaking over time, so I made sure to have some replacements on hand. I ordered a whole vanos rebuild kit, including new M5 seals (as per a very useful guide) but decided as I was limited on time, and the vanos appeared to be working OK now it was plugged in, I didn't want to take the time to rebuild the whole thing yet. It also didn't help that my fan clutch tool hasn't arrived, so I couldn't remove the fan to access the vanos unit. The solenoid seals are the most common point of failure anyway, and with mine leaking, it's a fairly easy thing to replace. First is to remove the solenoid cover. Its held on by 4 screws, with either a hex head (if original bolts) or torx (if replaced). The broken off bolt was still there, just with no head. I used some vice grips to slowly turn it until i could spin it out The cover was missing one half of the gasket, and had evidence of the bottom solenoid moving in the housing (the black circle on the cover is from the solenoid pressing against it). The bottom of the cover was caked in old oil The solenoids popped out easily, and as expected the seals were flat. The gauze filters were still fitted (usually removed when serviced), although most of the gauze was missing, like the last lot I serviced. Using a small screwdriver I broke off all the brown plastic for the filter, and removed it. I also used a scalpel to cut off the old seals. The old seals were hard as plastic, well overdue for replacement As with my last guide I used a 9v battery and brake cleaner to clean out the solenoids. They were surprisingly clean though, with nothing gross coming out of them like the ones I did on my old M3. Both give a nice solid click when powered. The new seals were fitted, and you can clearly see the improved shape of the M5 seals Everything was thoroughly cleaned, and the solenoids refitted to the vanos unit New gaskets were fitted to the cover, along with a thin smear of sealant to keep them in place The cover was then refitted, with one new bolt (I can't fit my Torx driver in the space with the fan fitted). I will fit all new bolts, and join the solder points on the solenoids, when I remove it all to refresh the vanos later. I noticed when I had the valve cover off that the intake cam sensor had a very big air gap. I know from INPA that it appears to read OK, but I wanted to look further into this. It turns out, looking at the sensor, the previous owner had pinched and hulk smashed the O-Ring on the sensor so it was sitting out quite a bit. The screw was finger tight too. Yeah it shouldn't look like this It turns out you can order these seals separately, but I didn't know I needed them so dug through my viton O-Ring kit and found one that fit well. The one in the photo was too big, but I did eventually find one that sealed well The sensor now sits flush with the head. It probably isn't making any difference, but it bothered me as it was. One last test needed to be done before I could go give it a try, and that was to fire up the old beast and run the DIS vanos leak test. This test is used to see if the vanos solenoids can keep the cam at a certain degree over a certain period of time or if the seals leak, resulting the cam angle slipping. There is some allowance for variation, up to about 5 degrees off target over 10 seconds if I recall correctly. I didn't test beforehand, I should have but I forgot, but after the seals my solenoids can hold the cam at about 3-5 degrees off target for as long as you want. That's pretty good in my books, for a vanos unit that has done almost 300,000km and never been rebuilt. I'll be interested to see if there is as much variation after rebuilding the vanos unit. So, after all this work, there was only one thing left to do. Hoon. The car runs and drives very well, with plenty of power. It feels much more like my old one, pushing you into your seat when you put your foot down. There are still some issues, like the misfire at idle, but overall it's significantly better than when I got it. Not to mention, it looks better! Loving the Style 24s and new Pirelli Dragon Sport tires.
  11. 2 points
    Aftermarket alarms are like women, they all go through a mental stage at some point! It's only when and for how long that varies.
  12. 2 points
    Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket
  13. 2 points
    Reluctantly selling my low miles manual E36 M3 convertible. It's a bit special having done only 32000 miles (51kms - NZ new), in great condition and i'm only the 4th private owner ( plus 4 or 5 dealers). I have the wind deflector which fits in the back over the rear seats and works quite well with the top down. Recently valeted along with a coating of Feynlab Ceramic paint protection - the paintwork looks almost like new ! ( apart from a few chips and the bottom of the front spoiler, which i may get painted). It has a newer Sony CD player in it but i have the original one. The service history is all up to date in the handbook. In my 5 years i've had the air-con re-gassed, a new battery, new tyres, regular servicing and a very minor repair to a cable in the roof. The photos mostly date back a few years as she has been stuck under a cover in the garage while we work on a new driveway but i will try to get some more soon. $27,500 ono.
  14. 2 points
    Getting to 100km/h in second gear...
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    definitely read this comment wrong the first time round..
  17. 2 points
    Amazing a thread where people post pictures of their meat made it this far without innuendo.
  18. 2 points
  19. 1 point
    Some light entertainment for the BMW fan, apoligies if this has already been posted
  20. 1 point
    So after visiting Winger BMW and being told that my car wasn't sold in NZ, and that only 30 130i models were sold new here, I got curious and wanted to know how many 3 door(E81) 130i there are in NZ. And the answer is Two 😲 Tag along to find out how I found this out: The service guy at Winger suggested I ask NZTA about numbers, so I was on their site today for an unrelated matter and remembered about my query. So I clicked on the motor vehicle registry and the NZTA provide an open database of every vehicle registered in NZ! https://opendata-nzta.opendata.arcgis.com/datasets/motor-vehicle-register Clicking on the data tab at the top you can filter by the various column headings and search them, so I started off with BMW as the Make column and 130i as the Model column, which gives 587 entries for a 130i in NZ. I then used realoem.com to select various productions months of the E81 model to find out the 4th-7th digits of the vin code(I also did this with the 5 door E87 to confirm the codes in the database). Adding that code onto the first 3 numbers of the vin from this sheet, and then entering it into the CHASSIS7 column(or VIN11) search, results in the two E81 130i registered in NZ. Now this is only as good as the info that has been put in, ie how the registration form has been filled in. Should work for every car, enjoy
  21. 1 point
    Isn’t it though...? Wonder what the policy is for test drives? I probably can’t show proof of that much funds, but I could leave a child as collateral.
  22. 1 point
    Further devaluation of the ///M brand... will it stop before it's worthless and just becomes another AMG?
  23. 1 point
    And remember they're crush washers, you need 4 for rack side and 4 for the pump side, one for either side of the hose fitting. And BMW NZ charges over $3 each... ridiculous. Edit: may only need 2 crush washers for the pump side, depends how the feed line attaches.
  24. 1 point
    I'm all for a bit of tinkering and tuning to see what you can get out of a car, lots of fun to be had from modifying and updating a stock factory car. However, I do start to get a bit worried when people go nuts on the engine side and forget about things like brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. especially on older cars like E30 where the original set up leaves a bit to be desired. Shouldn't be an issue on an M140i, especially if you have ordered the upgraded brakes or the M-Performance brakes.
  25. 1 point