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Aaaaaand another 1 lots of things to fix up but should be good once its done Want to change the shift knob as the leather is quite worn. The silver m performance ones any good?

Haha Stuff comment section. What a battleground.

Swapped all clear lights for amber, and m3 mirrors for standard in an attempt to creep towards assumed originality. I'm not totally sold on the new look of lights so far. Thing is, were the upgraded items put on by Alpina? By dealer? By owner when near new? Hard to say what constitutes originality. The zender/msport rear spoiler is going- as soon as I can get it off or find a replacement red bootlid!

You've got the wrong attitude when it comes to the stuff comments section. Roleplaying a former Gloriavale church member in the comments section got me through a deskjob 2009-2013.

Picked up my new seats... And bought some Throwing Stars 😎

Mines already nicknamed the Toaster 😳🤦‍♂️🤣 obviously fitting

way too expensive for what it is imo.

Fixed.

Hiya Selling my 525TDS as i just dont have the room anymore due to moving house. I have had this car for about 8 years now and would rather her go to an enthusiast or a project car and not the scrap yard. Currently has 179708 Miles (289211kms) on the clock Runs and drives well and has only recently ran out of WOF last month (Passed last year with no issues) , Rego is until December. Pros: 2.5 Turbo Diesel 525 Tow bar Interior is in good condition Cons worth mentioning: 1 Back electric window does not work Clear coat is starting to show on the roof and boot, small dent on rear panel of door. (Has this since the beginning when i purchased it) Takes a few warm up clicks when cold to get the glow plugs to warm Auckland $2800

Hi all New to the forum, I’m based in Christchurch and have a kiwi new 2001 330ci Motorsport rag top that I pull out on a nice day. Have a desire to buy an M3 to park alongside it but will post that in the right spot!

M62b44tu

I get that you're lampooning me, but seeing as the 130i/6 was literally the last atmo inline 6 with a manual gearbox that bmw produced, I don't think I'm wrong in saying that kiwi new versions of the format will be highly prized in future.

I raised the NZ new point because there were only so many kiwi new manual 130i's (17? Ask Jacko), so it stands to reason that they're going to follow the stratospheric rise of similar cars as they age - may as well get in early. Bimmersport members in 2040 will be shitting themselves that they didn't pick up this bargain before they were worth 64K 😂

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-3052539104.htm Really?

It's been a while since I've owned a BMW, been in company cars for a while with a urs6 and mgbgt to play with. Anyway picked this up a while back and have been returning her to spec- hence my advert seeking standard hellrot wing mirrors and an Alpina rear spoiler instead of the m3 items. She is a 3.2 Switchtronic, which is basically a tuned 5 speed zf auto with buttons on back of the steering wheel, Effectively always driving in sport mode, then using the 's' position as manual mode(normal s function is not available)

Pros: Full PDC / Kiwi new / no iDrive. Cons: No xenons / 223000km / silver.

BuT Ev BaTtErIeS ExPlODE!

Will be interesting to know what the specific cause was in these instances. I think it is easy for most people to forget anything like a vehicle that requires a high density energy source to power it, like a chemical lithium battery or petrol is always at a risk of combusting if the conditions line up triggered by some kind of technical fault.

Such informed contributions....

Standard type car batteries (not being deep cycle design) don't like being run flat or near flat frequently. They like to be always charged to 85% full or more and that means having a decent commute (like 20km each way) or getting at least one decent run every week if not in daily use. After killing a couple of new batteries by running them dead flat with an old style high drain car alarm system, I hooked up a solar panel battery maintainer and that was enough to offset the alarm system drain. Charging a battery is always a better option than driving around aimlessly for an hour hoping that it will charge up enough to start next time. If you have a car that gets little use, I highly recommend a battery maintainer. That will keep your battery fully charged and when you do use the car it is ready to go Cheers...

I *think* its 2009 build onwards but not 100% sure.

I owned 7 dc2 ITRS and I am now kicking myself selling them at 9 to 11k lol

Bloody hell, didn't even see that for sale, would have snapped it up. I can't stand the shape of the factory one, so the ZHP or MPerf knobs are the ticket - just comes down to your preference. A left field choice would be the illuminated 6spd E60 M5 knob. Drill a hole through the plastic gear boot locating ring and thread the wires through, then tap into the brown and blue wires in the centre console.

How much for the shocks and muffler?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3078165715?tm=email&et=45&mt=F909EDC8-3C14-49CC-9D87-FCE0B397F44E Spicy price

If you're talking about the ones I think you are, I put one in my car (along with the M performance short shift kit), and I did like it but it is really small in the hand so not to everyone's taste. I then changed to one of the "ZHP" style weighted knobs, but from a 1M coupe and that actually feels way nicer to me. I sold the old M performance knob to @NZ_InFerno and don't think he was convinced by it either??

Last E34 M5 I recall for sale was a white ZA assembled 3.6 (IIRC) one in ChCh about 5 years ago. It sold for around $27k. I was very interested but it seemed too much... not so anymore.

Paint those lower panels or I'll paint them for you. I was seriously against removing the M3 mirrors, but I actually quite like it! Go wide M3 door trim to match the bumpers as well.

I haven't noticed any appreciable difference to be honest but it was easy to install... remove airbox, unbolt power steering fluid reservoir and move it out of the way, undo existing hardware, install new hardware... maybe 30 mins?

I am pretty sure this previous owner of this car was asking for advice on what price he should list this car for. I think it got sold pretty quickly for around $14k mark.

Many of the above points are valid. But I think people with an emotional connection to an E28 number very few.

I want an E34 M5... I've seen 1 for sale in the last 8 years and it was ZA assembled, which didn't seem ideal. E39 M5 values are getting 'out of hand' too.

Not very valid comparisons. If they were, older cars would be dirt cheap because they fall short to newer models across the board. Why would someone drop 6 figures on a Valiant Charger when they can get a 700hp Hellcat with air con and all the latest features. Why would someone spend $100k on a 930 911 when they could get a 996 Turbo for the same price etc. I'd be surprised if even a handful of buyers would genuinely cross shop this with an E60 or F10. When was the last time an E34 (or E39) M5 were publicly listed for sale? Not as if theres an over supply of them. The way I see it is the asking price is consistent with the increase in values of all decent models from various maker up to the early 2000s. Ten years ago you could pick up a Intergra Type R DC2 for $7k. Now the cheapest one on TM is $28k. I could list dozens of vehicles who've seen their prices increase by hundreds of percent over the last decade. Its all relative. The red E30 M325i currently with reserve met is proof of this.

I think prices overseas are steadily climbing for the E28 M535i. I advertised my one for $16.5k and was eventually offered $20k from a NZ buyer and I almost sold it. I had quite a few enquires from overseas buyers but I wasn’t entertaining them. And my one needed a bit of work. I think $25k-$30k is reasonable for that car. They are only going up in value. People are bidding $40k for the red E30 tech 2 on trademe. Yep, a lot of better cars can be had for $40k. But some people prefer driving an E30 tech 2 than a F10 M5. Each to their own. If I had $40k, I would be chasing a Z4M coupe or an E46 M3 manual.

On the basis that there is a lot more in the BMW stable available at $40k. You have E34, E39, E60 and even F10 M5's available at that price point. Personally I would buy an Audi B5 RS4 if I was in that market. I would have a think about that E28 at $20-25k.

That was an Australian assembled fully optioned one I think. A bit OTT for a Kingswood. Especially when a desirable US car can be had for a lower price - Big block late 60s Charger, Camaro, Mustang, Corvette, Rivera, Impala SS etc. General consensus here is this E28 is over priced (actually, that seems to be the thoughts on any car featured on BS). On what basis is this over priced?

Completed the tear down and replacement of the required items. Removal of internal oil pump looks to be incredibly easy and essentially just leaving it out !! Lucky. There was a damaged gasket under one of the notorious VQ oil galleries, so definitely a good decision to do this work now !! Also two of the original screws were loose, so again great to fix while its all opened up. Gave the front cover a nice acid clean and water blast so it looks spanky now. Final re-assembly still to come then can validate the last items before having the oil pan manufactured.

mine had more km about 320ks , and not quite as mint as this white one but yea prices are rising on these so few for sale in tidy condition i dont think km maters as most of these have had plenty of work done to them and they where family/business cars so where all driven all the time my old silver one had 465,000km when i brought it guy just drove it all the time and long trips etc was still running on original engine (just) i know a couple of the past owners too of the white one and it used to have a PP that i own now

Big parts delivery days this week !!! Stoked to get this lot as it unblocks the next few phases of work Highlights are the Serial Nine shifter relocation kit, the beefy slip yoke (can get the drive shaft finished) and ATI damper so I can work on mounting up the dry sump pump. Other items are for fixing a common issue on the VQ (oil gallery gasket failure), completing the fuel pump wiring and doing general service pieces while the front cover is off. Front cover removed from the engine to complete the oil gallery gasket repairs, general service of items (water pump, gaskets, o-rings, thermostat etc). This is also the time to look at the internal oil pump and work out what needs to happen to it for conversion to the dry sump pump. Had some expert input from a friend of mine on the oil pan design and have reworked it significantly to move the three scavenge ports to the right side of the motor below an oil scraper plate. Only one close fitment to validate in the car (pressure port near steering rack) then can do final checks and get it made !!

A long time between updates, but the wheels have been turning slowly in the background with a lot of time spent designing the new dry sump oil pan and thinking things through now that the engine is mounted in the car on its proper engine mounts. Will need to get the trans mount sorted next but its going to be a funky design to allow the left side headers to have maximum clearance under the car. Only other bits completed are installation of the electronic throttle pedal instead of stock cable one which included: confirming the BMW throttle pedal is 'sensor compatible' with the Nissan ECU (yay !!!) and removing the auto pedal kickdown cam thingy. Also started laying out some fuel system bits which have been sitting in a box for ages as I need to convert the VQ to a return style system which basically involves a '4 way tap' fitting replacing the factory damper then installing an external regulator which will maintain set pressure and drain excess back to the tank. Oil pan is looking really good ... just have to confirm the exact hole locations, add in an additional scavenge port which I was not going to use originally and confirm some clearances on the car then can submit to have manufactured via an amazing service from https://www.3dhubs.com So I got a used four stage dry sump pump (with oil / air seperator) also which will need to be changed from a left to right hand mount. There is quite a bit of work and expense in getting the oiling system under control which is a bummer but should ultimately be a really good solution. May need to sell a kidney once I organise fittings, hoses, reservoir, breather, vacuum regulator etc etc etc A couple of snaps checking the dry sump design for clearance around the crank / rods as well as externally between the steering rack and subframe etc.

I'll have you know, it has not seen a workshop for 60 days 🤣

Certifier was ok with me welding the mounts so they are finished now, happy with how they turned out. Now I can get to the bottom of the engine again I'm plotting out where the oil returns are to the sump so I can model them into the new dry sump pan.

Had to take the pedal box out again along with the brake booster to install the rubber firewall grommet properly for the clutch low / no pressure line. Glad to have that part of the job ticked off !! Got the engine mounts prepared and tacked up which is another milestone kinda job ... will talk with the certifier tomorrow to see if they are happy for me to fully weld them or would rather I get them done by somebody else. Next up I can remove the temporary frame from the subframe and engine so I can complete the required measurements for the new oil pan. Progress !!

With some tips from another thread I managed to get the clutch hard line installed in the cabin without taking the dash off and the pedals are now in place and looking great. I made up a wire template of the line before straightening it out enough to get it trough the factory conduit.

Making slow progress lately but managed to replace the driveshaft support bearing and started adding the clutch pedal to the pedal box ready to go back into the car once the clutch hard line is magic'd into place. The new M3 engine and trans mounts arrived also so I can start to fabricate up some mounts. Or I can use the timber mock up, just need some PVA ? The real 50x5 SHS steel should be here soon.

Got the engine leveled out setup a reference 'grid' with the laser to take a bunch of measurements needed to model up the new drysump pan. Was hoping to keep it using a wet sump but expert advice determined there is little room to make something bulletproof. Thats about it lately ... will be many hours on the computer next to model the pan and hopefully get to a workable and easily manufactured solution.

https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/125008447/occupants-lucky-escape-as-vehicle-destroyed-in-highway-blaze

Jeez those goal posts were moved so fast I'm starting to suspect you handled Eden Park's transformation for the Six60 gig.

Hi all, Not being a Facebook person, I only learned last night via a random nostalgic visit to the mazda rotary enthusiast club page that unfortunately Darryl passed last August. RIP big guy...