Eagle

@LsBeema is around those ways i believe

Indeed. 4S are bit overkill for me especially with the price gap.

Don't know about premium, they were cheaper than Re003 last time I bought them and performed better overall.

PS5's now. They are also cheaper than 4's in size i want

Ill have sit in it sometime to see what its like compared to all the used seats.

The few dyno's videos etc ive seen seems to confirm that no difference, they beat on them on hard in one video. Primary tubing generally being oversized and gases flowing faster in the middle of tube and slower on outside was the reasoning.

No cert and wrong gearbox if you care about that sort of thing. Plus no doubt plenty of other stuff that's worn that he hasnt mentioned. I think id have to see and drive it before valuing it.

What was thinking about that other day sitting in mine and i swear the older cars like E34 and below were much better in regards to bolstering. The standard sport seats in 90's and 00's BMW at least seem to be more built more for the fatties being wider and softer bolstering.

Dont even bother with Ripco tbh and get one from the local dealer or BMW parts supplier. Any Ripco sells specially Euro stuff is heavily marked up for retail and even with trade discounts can be more expensive than a OE product.

Indeed, the 90's was peak for that imo. Some brand have certainly feared far worse than others though on that front - a Toyota corolla from the 90's still resembles the 2020 version, can't say the same for the BMW 318i equivalent. I think you can create you own luck to a large degree when buying a car, the rest a mechanical warranty should cover. I dont think id ever buy a used vehicle without one if i couldn't do repairs myself. The prices of parts and labor these days are crazy.

If you want a BMW with close to Japanese reliability then you should of bought one that was made about 3 decades ago.

Would think your bumper would have an exhaust tip cut out?

I'll usually take the metal ring off and blast penetrating fluid into them before hand if they haven't been off in ages, seems to help. Wiggling forward and back they usually come off without too much issue, and i can't say ive ever damaged one.

Unfortunately there seem to be a fault in the DME or the new clutch module so pedal engagement\disengagement isn't being registered properly. Actually threw a clutch module error and disabled cruise control buttons with it all wired up the so input has disconnected for now. Hopefully it stays thinking its pressed in. Also have developed a annoying rattle on the passenger dash\glove box and light knocking coming from L\R which needs to be looked at when weather improves. On the positive side I've been driving it around a fair bit to bed in the clutch which is slowly improving. I can't really fully push it yet but im sure it's the best running stock M54 ive driven. Fixing the vacuum leaks has dropped the LTFT's from +9,+11 to +3,+4, along with ICV clean and new MAF and O2 sensors has made a very noticeable difference in throttle response and acceleration. Shifts exactly like my E39 with new bushings, E60 short shifter, ZHP knob and Redline MTL. Also bled the DSC unit a few times as pedal travel was quite excessive - very big improvement, so much so you can actually heal and toe now and brake heavily. Gave up on the pom actually giving me anything he promised and bought a new leather boot local from Coombes ( $171 trade and came in just over 1 week so very reasonable)

Ive seen a similar 540i in the past which did. Never truely now until you check.

Probably got the ACS suspension too - sway bars, springs and struts\shocks.

Does the A\C still work?

Mines the same. The small one pictured is all you get in the rear from factory id say. Cost cutting\weight saving.

Could just been a failed coil but if you have the 330i it seems pointless not driving that. Yeah i thought so too but wasn't going to say anything hehe. Too bad you are so far away, otherwise id certainly offer you a hand.

Thanks. I think ive spent close to what i paid for it on parts now haha.

Various wire wheels on big corded drill, more powerful drill with higher rpm yields best results. I think i spent about 20-30 mins on it to get the majority off but it wasn't an OCD clean by any means.

Mostly back together. Very easy to get the box in compared to that horrible SSG. Even the clutch line wasn't as bad as i expected. Quick start to check coding, gearbox and clutch which appear working well. Just need to get the driveshaft re-balanced with the new front half and CV joint before i can drive. The guy didn't include the shifter foam and boot so will have to wait for him to find one a boot or get new. Looks like of those done on the cheap conversions but at least i can still use it. Long 1\2" extension and wobble extension recommended. Makes the job much easier and less likely to round heads off (24" and 10" pictured)

Yeah as you got some basic tools, jack and axles stand etc its probably better to do it at your residence. Im <10min to Cambridge. Send me a PM and can sort it out.

To rule out anything sway bar related you can disconnect or remove the links and go for a slow drive. If its still there its not that.

Right. I think id rather take the exhaust and turbo off, less chance of damaging anything or running into issues, unless you are replacing other stuff while you are there. I can give you hand if you want.