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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Hey Everyone We have finally got some action going! called up the engineers and as promised he had started some work on the heads. Popped in to have a look and he didn't disappoint, so excited to finally get this build back on track. One of the heads in the CNC machine getting the intake and exhaust ports done, not sure on specs but looks to be 2-3mm of porting done. a view of some of the exhaust ports Yet to be machined. Machined Intake side. A comparison of one done and factory. Billet blocks to be machined into the throttle housing. Throttle plates and the trumpets that will be going on top So thats it for now, Engineer was originally going to weld and make the intake adapter plate by hand but has now decided to machine it out of a solid billet piece. Regrind factory cams and find some stronger valve springs to suit. can't wait to see more of this build taking shape. Thanks Richard
  2. 8 points
    Thought i would post up some photos, of a run-about car i've been tidying up Not a BMW though, however i did get some BMW floor mats for it Body was in rough shape - scratches everywhere, scuffs and dings, photos hide it well - paint ok, but not black enough for my liking Interior horrible Stripped it out, went to town with the rug doctor, dyed carpet a darker colour Chucked it back together - got some BMW floor mats Popped the headgasket somehow, lol Completely rebuilt head The sanding begins for full-respray Begun painting - didn't bother masking the wheels up since i'm sanding them all back later and going gunmetal Found a another #$#$# ding lol Now for some real HP improvements - painting the engine, metallic red with silver raised lettering Total budget including the car, rebuilding the head, and complete respray under $3500
  3. 6 points
    Hi guys - new member here based in Auckland . I have a 2013 E92 M3 which is currently en-route to NZ from South Africa. Look forward to meeting up with some of you once it arrives mid to end March.
  4. 6 points
    Not something you see everyday
  5. 6 points
    And in today’s news, this: ... I’ve never had a car that someone liked enough to try to buy! Think I’ll dust off my sheepskin coat, put on my best Arthur Daley, and see if he’d like to buy a classic 855-T5 instead 😉
  6. 5 points
  7. 4 points
    I had planned on putting these on a E39 Touring which I doubt now I am going to own, and looking to do more work on my 540 so needing to free up some cash. These have been balanced twice by Miramar bridgestone as I had a shimmy but I believe that is my suspension, not the wheels. These were originally @qube's which he bored out to 74.1 CB for the E39 but they will fit the more common 72.56 with hubcentric rings. 1 wheel (rear) has been refurbed by wheel magician. Two front tyres are new (maybe have done 100km on them if that) and the rears still have plenty of life. Asking $2000 ONO. Located in Wellington, tyres are currently mounted, don't come with the BMW center caps. Tyres are OEM sizes staggered. Fronts 235/40/18 Hankook Ventus V2's (new), Rears 265/35/18 Hankook V12 EVO (used but plenty of life left)
  8. 4 points
    My S.O had a car accident at the beginning for Feb, and the insurance wrote that car off. After many test drives, we narrowed down the choice to three models. F15 X5 Xd50i, Mercedes GLE 250d 4Matic, Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 Limited. After much agonizing, we settled on a replacement... the F15 X5 Xdrive 50i 🙂I didn't grab any photos off the dealer website before they took the car down, so these will have to do for now. It's very well spec'd with some highlights being:* Bang and Olufsen Sound* Surround view* Park assist* Exclusive Nappa Mokka (NAMY)* Fineline Pure textured wood* Interior and Exterior Design Pure Experience* Adaptive suspension pack 'Professional'* Comfort seats with memory* Pano roof* 3rd row searing* Ambient lighting* Soft close doors* HUD* Adaptive LED headlights* Individual Exterior Line - Burnished Aluminium He/She (haven't decided yet) is currently wrapped in matte silver, which looks awesome, and all the chrome has been blacked out (apart from the kidney surrounds). Underneath the paint colour is mineral silver metallic A14.On the second test drive, I took my Surface Pro along and hooked the car up to ISTA+ for a full diagnostic, fully expecting the control unit tree to be lit up lit up like Christmas lights. To my joy, there were only 2 errors, and both had to do with the battery needing replacement.The car is currently being prepped and serviced, and I'll collect it after returning from a business trip next week. Right now I have to go and move our garage shelving around to make sure the 5-er and the 6-er fit side-by-side.
  9. 4 points
    No longer needed Forged staggered alloys 17x8 ET20 17x9 ET22 Wheel covers,caps and paint are original and still quite tidy. Curbing machined and lips polished. Have replaced BMW center logos and cover bolts(stainless hex type) with new items $2000
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    Cheaper for bimmersport members. Also have a brand new rear chrome trim as well
  12. 4 points
    Getting way off topic now haha I don’t need Lexus talk on my page plz
  13. 4 points
    Good choice. Looks great. But how the hell was the Jeep even in the running? Living in the US I see many of them. On the back of tow trucks and on the side of the highway.
  14. 4 points
    probably the size of an e38 by now ?
  15. 4 points
    Ever had that wiring job and ended up with heaps of soldered joins and strips of heat shrink. While adding a few interior goodies to Tim 325 this was the case after a bit if mucking around and a few wrecked connectors and terminals. Came up with this hope it is of help to some body. terminal removal.docx
  16. 4 points
  17. 4 points
    Original plan always an E34 manual but i never saw any good candidates. I found this E39 528i factory manual and thought id turn my existing wannabe 530i motorsport into eventually an improved version of the actual one. Benefits of this are fairly obvious - M54B30 power. I can retain much of the work and $ spent ive done on my existing car and don't have to do it all again on another unknown car. I like my car colour and don't want to own another silver BMW especially one which has a grey interior (528i has both). Buying the extra motorsport bits shouldn't be hard or expensive given these cars are plentiful and worth jack so it should help keep costs down. The swap seems fairly straight forward. The coding side of it appears relatively easy with my MS43 DME. May be some small pedal issues as they appear to have changed things around in Sept '97. Possibly a little wiring and\or a few plug changes to get the drive by wire working etc with pedals for cruise control etc. Will deal with the issues when i come to them as using early M52 manual setup is a little different to the M54 auto and not properly documented as far as ive looked. Plan is sort of a 3 stage deal given i don't want the car off the road for long periods at a time. 1. Remove 528i gearbox etc and my 530i engine and transmission to fix up some small oil leaks. Fit M-suspension bigger swaybars whilst its out. Fit manual box with all new shifter bushings with E60 shorter shifter and ZHP knob. Replace all driveline and clutch components (apparently the PO has a new clutch with single mass flywheel installed not long ago so i shouldn't have to worry about that part). 2. Sort some upgraded springs and dampeners. Will look into rebuilding my KW coilovers i have here with Koni adjustable inserts but will look at other options if too expensive with the added cert. 3. Black motorsport interior to replace my beige one as most sports seats seem to be black on these. Then lastly put back in what BMW accountants took out - the LSD experience. I will start dismantling the 528i tomorrow to find out what parts i need and will commence work once they arrive. In the mean time im happy enough driving an old 5 series manual again.
  18. 3 points
    Councils are all of the problem, and they have got worse since property values have gone up. they just treat home owners like cash cows, endlessly increasing rates, charging someone to put on a deck or build a garage $20k plus in costs before the first sod is turned. Want a new build, cool, $90k in costs. And instead of maintaining the roads berms parks beaches, they go and do stupid vanity projects or solve problems that dont exist. Only reason im not running in this years council elections is because i no longer live in new zealand, sick of this tax anyone that tries to do something with thier life to hand out to either those that cant be bothered, or some slush fund for politicians so the cycle continues.
  19. 3 points
    Have you thought about asking the warranty and service advisors at your chosen dealer?
  20. 3 points
    Hey Team Small update, dropped off cam sprockets and engineers has finished porting the heads.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    Property is an investment, a car is a liability. Honestly, the more money I pour into BMWs over the years, the more I consider just buying a Lexus. Now you can all throw rocks at me because I’ve given up on life!
  23. 3 points
    This is 2019.. you can't offer 2000 repair procedures for vehicles that have entirely different operational and repair requirements . People come on here trying to find out what the correct procedures are. Not guesses or ... I think you could do this or that. DIY is not an excuse to offer such advice. The advice I gave to the OP is correct and I stand by that. You can offer what you like but your in the wrong sand pit with your advice.
  24. 3 points
    bear in mind Glenns past is in a workshop environment where you are accountable to the customer and need to keep the cost down. he does not have the right to cut corners in the workshop, and risk blowing up components, and can depreciate all the gear as well. Whereas at home on ones own car, one can take that risk. I too, would use a normal battery charger.
  25. 3 points
    Okay, it's been a while since my last post, but the car has still been progressing. I left off with the exhaust on the ground waiting for exhaust gaskets, and needing to replace the valve cover gasket. The parts arrived, so I got on with it. With the arrival of the exhaust gaskets for the manifold to center section flanges, I could refit the exhaust. This thing is a damn beast, but with some carefully juggling, wiggling and bolting, I got it back into place. Just as a quick side note, when cleaning up under the car I noted that two of the nuts I removed from the giubo were completely wrong. That wouldn't have helped the balance of the drive shaft. They all got replaced, as they are Distorted Thread locking nuts. The top of them is basically squished and distorted, so when you put new nuts on, they bind on the threads and wont come loose. Reusing them is a no-no, because they will no longer bind like they should. Similar concept to Nyloc nuts, but can handle higher heat. With the underside work done, I could finally refit the wheels with new rubber on them and lower the car down a bit and finish the work inside the car. I needed to refit the clutch pedal, as I had removed it to replace the bushes. I tried some flashy delrin bushes, but unless I removed the whole pedal box and fitted them on the bench, there was no way I could press the bushes on in the car, they were just too tight. Instead I went with a pair of new OEM bushes, slathered in grease. Thanks to the bolt I fitted that was missing from the pedal box, and the new bushes, the clutch pedal feels much better now; it doesn't move off the side, and I don't hit the dead pedal now. The other thing I wanted to do whilst under there was to replace the throttle cable, as my original one was well munted and made the throttle sticky. It was also ugly, and I don't like ugly. Removing the cable was easy enough, once you get the plastic clip out of the firewall (have fun one that one), it was just a case of pulling it through the engine bay and disassembling where it attached to the linkage. This is where it all kinda went wrong, all over one tiny little stupid (but crucial) bit of plastic. As I was attaching the white plastic clip back on the end of the cable so it could attach to the linkage, I dropped it. Of all the places, and things to drop, it was a plastic clip, between the 5th and 6th intake runners. It didn't come out the bottom, and I couldn't go magnet fishing because it was plastic. I tried moving and jiggling things in the area to see if it would drop down, and even lifted the car up and tried to fish around with my hand from underneath to find it. It didn't work, I had only one option left. The whole intake had to come off. Thankfully removing one isn't too hard, and it's something I had done before on my old M3, it's just bit of a prick to get at some of the hoses and bolts. Oh there it is, sitting on the starter motor... This little bastard. I then proceeded to immediately drop it again; onto the floor this time, so until it was ready to go back on, it went into my pocket. Having the intake off did give me a chance to have a quick look around, and give the throttles a quick clean, so it wasn't all bad. Back together it went, and on went the new throttle cable (assembling over a large rag, so I wouldn't drop it again. See, I learn from my mistakes!). Whilst setting up the new cable I encountered two things that made me facepalm. One, the throttle return stop had been mangled, and bent back. This stop is what stops the throttle pedal linkage going back too far when you take your foot off the pedal. If it goes back too far, there will be too much slack in the cable and you will never adjust it out. No prizes for guessing how I found this issue. I bent it back as flat as I could, which made the pedal sit better, and allowed me to correctly adjust the cable. Being bent back was no accident; it took a lot of work to bend it forward again, so I can only suspect it was done intentionally to compensate for the stuffed cable. The second issue, was that the throttle stop was badly adjusted. On my car because the shell was originally auto, instead of a normal solid "stop" under the pedal, I have the kickdown button still. The throttle stop/kickdown button sits behind the pedal and is what stops you putting pedal to the metal, or more accurately, damaging the throttle cable by trying to pull it further than the throttle plate will allow. On the flip side, if it's not adjusted enough, it will stop you getting to Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The whole thing is on a thread and screws into the floor, but does have a locking nut that stops it goes in too far. On my car that locking nut was wound way out, which meant that the stop couldn't be wound in as far as it needed to be, which means by the time the throttle pedal stopped, I was only seeing about 3/4" opening, not WOT. No wonder this car felt slow! I wound the locking nut down, and wound the stop in enough that when the kickdown button (which now does nothing but offer some nice physical feedback through my foot when pressed) is pressed, the throttle is 100% open. With that mess cleared up, I moved out of the interior and into the engine bay for one last job for the day. The valve cover gasket. I noticed it was BADLY leaking down the back corner, so ordered a replacement a while back. I had intended to rebuild the vanos whilst the cover was off, but decided to postpone that (for reasons I will explain in a later post) and just stop it leaking. Replacement is easy; Remove the coils, a whole bunch of bolts, and then the cover itself. When removing the coils, you also need to move the loom out of the way, so I rest that on the strut tower. I didn't notice, or remember, that the coil connectors are actually numbered via a small brown plastic tag on each wire (as seen in the photo), so instead I put a small dot for each coil it went to (1 dot for coil 1, 6 for the 6th coil) with a paint pen. This is the connector for coil 2. The dots are covered by the locking clip when assembled. It never hurts to over mark things before disassembly. And off comes the cover. It takes a lot of wiggling to get the back to clear the cable holder and the rear cam cap, but it does fit. This is the corner that was leaking. The gasket wasnt that old, it must have been replaced when they did the head work, but for whatever reason it just didn't seal here The other leak I had was a bad one into a couple of the spark plug tubes, via the rubber washer on the bolts. I ordered a bunch of these (you need 20x btw, I came up two short). The old ones were hard as rocks and shorter than the new ones I cut them all off the bolts, and pressed the new ones on. I slathered them in red rubber grease, and used a socket and a hammer to press them on. Much quick and easier than doing it by hand. Pop the new rubber washer over the threads, hold the socket on top, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer until it pops over the shoulder. The new gasket was then fitted to the head, with a small amount of sealant in the corners of where it goes over the cam bridge in the front, and then back on the cover went. The bolts were then refitted with the new washers. Now, with the bolts be VERY careful refitting them. They are too easy to pull the threads out of the head if you over torque them. In this case I did them to 8NM working from the middle outwards and all was well On went some new coils, and it looked like an engine again. Some testing shows no signs of leaking anymore, which is good. The clutch pedal and throttle feel much better, with less slack and more immediate response. Unfortunately despite replacing the bushes in the shifter, there is still too much play (although FAR less than before), and it appears to be coming from the joint at the bottom of the shift lever itself, so that will need to be replaced, maybe with a short shifter? The biggest disappointment is that despite replacing the coils and checking the spark plugs, there is still a very noticeable misfire at idle. It sounds like the old girl has some wild lumpy cams. I'm working on this now, so hopefully I can nail it soon.