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  1. 11 likes
    Finally got around to putting the wheels on the E39
  2. 10 likes
    I doubt anyone knows me, but I can bet many of you know this vehicle. This is the M70 swapped E34 Touring owned by Andy (_ethrty-Andy_) and built by Lance (mellowpuf). I came into the car through Euroless, who seems to have saved the car from a terrible fate. I then I got it shipped down from Auckland. It actually beat it's ETA because the transport driver was curious to see who owned it! The car itself is in a pretty poor state at the moment. It's clearly been through some unsavoury hands who had it 'for skidz'. I'm currently in the process of deep cleaning the whole car to find out just how far gone the it really is. Exterior has some serious wear and tear. Front quarter panels are both damaged. Paint is beyond saving in some areas. The front AC Schnitzer bumper clearly has a close relationship with the road, while the rear one has been poorly modified to make the exhaust and towbar fit. Left front rim is badly curbed.. Hood doesn't shut properly and is misaligned, even after some fettling with the adjustments. Rear window panel has been replaced at some point, so it doesn't open indepently like it should. One of the headlight lens are missing. The rear spoiler annoys me: as the car is a UK import it doesn't have a high stop light in it. A shoddy aftermarket one has been installed on the inside of the window instead, probably for compliance when the car entered NZ in 1996. The electrical system is going to take up a lot of my time by the looks of things. I immediately put a new DIN88 battery in it to eliminate any voltage issues. I've already cleared out some of the more interesting wiring. The subwoofer wiring was average at best, and it's gone now. Half the speakers don't seem to work and have been obnoxiously placed over factory trims. Pretty sure the double chassis looms under the rear seat is unnecessary, so that'll have to be rebuilt. It's probably also a fire hazard given that it's right next to the battery. The aftermarket fuse box under the steering column is pretty gross, can't wait to get rid of that. Coolant temp isn't wired up correctly, but surely that can't be hard to do right especially given there's a correctly working aftermarket coolant temp gauge right next to it. I swapped in the spare E32 M70 instrument cluster to see it resolved anything, but alas. The electric radiator fan and the associated wiring just seems silly. Extra wiring installed and spliced onto factory plugs for fog lights that don't even exist. Random sets of factory wiring coiled in the engine bay, not sure what for yet. Mechanically the engine is pretty close to operational. It's an early M70B50, recognisable by the oil filler cap location and the Motronic 1.2 DMEs. The mounting of the engine is actually top notch and the fitment of the ancillaries also shows great workmanship. The exhaust doesn't seem to sit on it's hanger properly though. I have no idea why someone painted the intake manifolds bright red, it looks absurd. The engine should be capable of 220kW and 450Nm, assuming it's factory. However it should not have been driven in it's current state, but clearly has been. I must admit even I'm guilty of this as I had to limp it home from work. It has a moving misfire and a knock. The right bank (1-6 cyl) distributor is arcing internally at random intervals. It requires new distributors and rotors, which are en route already. Gearbox works okay. Diff clearly works, pretty sure it's an LSD but I'm yet to confirm that. It'll get all fluids replaced and I'll carry out the Inspection I and Inspection II service items as well as check the operation and condition of every component I can get to. I won't be happy driving this car until I know it works perfectly from a mechanical standpoint. Just gotta say how disappointed I am by this: the air-con has been removed. What is the point of a big grand touring wagon if you can't be comfortable? The condenser has clearly been removed to make way for the electric fan, and the hoses to make space for some of the ancillaries. The AC compressor hasn't been sealed so it has seized and appears to also have a seized pulley despite still having a belt spinning around it. Suspension is a mess. It has full XYZ coilovers but nothing is setup correctly. None of the shocks are set to the same rebound. Preload on the front springs set randomly apparently; the right has some jounce while the left has none at all (as in it's stupidly stiff). Still need to check the rears. Will have to get it up in the air and remedy this nonsense. Right front wheel bearing is shot, despite the hub being replace a mere 2 years ago with a Repco unit. Quality parts en route to solve that. Tires are in good knick though, won't have to replace them anytime soon. Falken UHP 255 section tires on the rear and some Chinese Habilead 235s up front. Interior is "the second worst I've ever seen in an E34" says Autobahn. Headlining sagging. Door cards are an absolute mess. Front seats are filthy, "like someone has sh*t themselves and smeared it in," one of my co-workers said. Driver's interior door handle straight up just doesn't work. Glove box doesn't sit even close to straight. Everything behind the dash looks in a right mess. Boot space has look like it's never been cleaned despite heavy use. Original spare wheel and tire in there. The lower trunk lid trim is completely missing, though there is a spare piece in the wrong colour hanging around. Trims over the rear strut towers are misaligned and stop the rear seats securing the way they should. All the interior sill trims are missing. The one positive is that (surprisingly) someone hasn't run off with the Nardi steering wheel. Everything inside the car was also dirty. Very dirty. It's cleaner now though. I've removed all the older stickers, steam cleaned the carpet in the boot, cleaned the glass properly, and wiped down most of the interior surfaces. Came with many spares. Someone has clearly been down the wreckers to grab as much as they can. EMLs and DMEs and DKs and 5 wiper stalks for some reason. Couple spare sets of HT leads, which I will use. Should all prove useful, not least for troubleshooting. However I'll need to set up a donor car to replace the entire interior forward of the C-pillar, wiring, front quarter panels, air-con. It'll need a respray and some general body repairs at some point. I plan on retrofitting the pre-facelift E34 wing mirrors as I rather dislike the later E36 style ones the car has. (Fun fact: as the E34 was only available as a Touring following the facelift in 1992, so no Touring could have the old style wing mirrors or any other pre-facelift trim.) This car has some pretty amazing potential, but it's currently far less than the sum of it's parts. I feel like I've bought a $4k cert plate. Can't wait to have it running properly and get it truly nice and tidy. I'll keep you guys up to date as the situation develops.
  3. 9 likes
    Put a 3rd pedal into the m535i and cleaned the interior so it no longer feels like a cocoon of disgustingness (who knew door handles could go mouldy)
  4. 9 likes
    Well chaps, still waiting on payment, but, it's looking pretty sold, to someone who i've made swear a blood oath that they'll keep us in the loop and care for it.
  5. 8 likes
    Bought my first BMW in early 2015, it was a fairly standard 320i that was converted to manual and was put on HR springs and KYB shocks with a set of replica volk wheels Used this car as my daily for about a year and did a few things to it, had plans for it but at the time i was driving it every day and it served its purpose well Put some TD144s on it had a problem with the tyres on them changed them down a sidewall thickness and put a bit of stretch and they worked well also put on a Grip Royal steering wheel on to replace the factory wheel it had and that was about the extent of the "mods" i had done to the car until the front cross member gave out on me and broke the small tab that bolts the sway bar bracket on. So at that point i decided to it was time for a M20B25 upgrade "might as well change the engine while i'm fixing this front cross member" I said and from there things spiralled out of control and what started as a 2.5 swap has now turned into a M20B25 stroker turbo build so the motor was pulled stripped everything out of the engine bay and shaved off unnecessary brackets for a nice clean look paint and rust work (leaking brake master i believe) were done at Riverlea Panel and Paint Braided clutch, fuel and brake lines being installed (some shown) Brand new Fenix radiator E36 steering rack and custom shaft wanted to go Z3 but best option at the time was e36 so went with that During all of that i picked up a used M20B25 from Auckland came from a 89 vert with 180000 ks on it but engine ran fine so guess it made sense to rebuild it lol In went a 2.7 Stroker kit 2.7 crank 135mm rods M50???? pistons can't remember what they came from now engine was sent to Cambridge Engine Services for cleaning and checking all was good so in it all went using OEM bearings, rings and gaskets down the bottom Crank scraper and sump baffle were fitted (pain in the ass with two gaskets and very tight baffle to install) Head was ported and polished by Jim at same shop new valve guides and stainless steal valves installed Head was planed just a smidge Bolted together with an Elring HG (2mm) and cap screws head fitted with brand new valve springs and retainers, a reground 272 cam, HD rockers and oversized eccentrics brand new water pump fitted Just currently needing a timing belt and tensioner which i'll pick up this week couldn't resist test fitting the manifolds and turbo when it was all torqued down lol won't be running it with the turbo straight away as it will be easier to run the motor in on the factory ECU that way i'll have the cam run in and the rings will seal really well before boost is added which will be courtesy of a Sinco manifold, front facing plenum and Master Power MPR-494 in the meantime tho just going to be using the standard intake and exhaust , intake fitted with custom fuel rail to run -6 fittings and braided lines which the whole car has been converted to (pics to come) ^ pic of the lines coming into the engine bay unsecured atm brake and clutch lines also being changed to braided lines all bushes being changed to revshift aftermarket ones offset bushes above yet to do the diff mount bush as I'm looking for a medium case diff at the moment and will be twin mounting it underneath the car shortly. E36 adapter shaft with solid aluminium centre Motor and gearbox will be going in shortly with revshift gearbox mounts and Range Rover v8 engine mounts using a spec stage 3, 6 puk clutch and lightened factory flywheel shipped for $700 from Evan at SpeedFactor will definitely be able to handle the power I'm expecting to make will be picking up some seat rails for these in the next few weeks and bolting them in (can't wait these seats are awesome) will be updating this build very soon for now peace
  6. 8 likes
    Put up a shade sail in the attempt to stave off the bee poo bombardments this coming summer.... Also over the weekend took the Monaro up to Auckland for a "End of Holden Production Cruise" - Not BMW but thought I'd mention it...
  7. 7 likes
    Blew the cobwebs out from daily driver duties up on some Northland roads and caught up with @DC3
  8. 6 likes
    Picked this up to replace the 130i.. So far just put on some new wheels
  9. 6 likes
    Other Mods/Admin please edit as you see fit. Treat this like a wiki. Tip # 1 - Post pics of your ride If you are a new member posting on the forum for the first time, pictures of your car are compulsory! The only exception is if you are new to BMW's and haven't yet purchased. Half-assed fuzzy cell-phone camera pics are not good enough. We are an enthusiast forum and want to see what you drive - be proud of your ride! Tip # 2 - Follow the rules Bimmersport has been around a long time. It started as a really small group of friends who just wanted a place to meet other BMW enthusiasts, talk sh*t and maybe catch up for the odd beer. The forum was created by them in their own time and with their own money. As bimmersport has grown, advertising has allowed some of the expenses to be covered, but the owners of the site still invest their own resources, and them with the help of the rest of the Admin/Moderation team spend a lot of their own (unpaid) time trying to keep the forum running. As such, the Admin and Mods get really peeved if members don't follow the rules, pick fights, use bad grammar, and especially - abuse the mods/admin team. Do yourself a favour and read the rules and follow them. If someone else breaks the rules and it affects you, don't start a fight with them - contact a Moderator. Tip # 3 - When in Rome.... As said above, Bimmersport started as a really small group of friends who just wanted a place to meet other BMW enthusiasts, talk sh*t and maybe catch up for the odd beer. Many of the early members are still here and most are good friends in the real world (not just on the internet), and often get together socially. This means often there are "in jokes" and slang etc that you may not get or understand. It is just like meeting a new group of people who are all friends. You wouldn't try and stand out and make a d*ck of yourself in that sort of situation. You would watch everyone else and either become part of the group, or decide its not for you and quietly leave. The same is true for our online community to some extent. If you have an opinion that differs from the group, you're entitled to it, but if you are new, don't make an example of yourself by loudly voicing and defending controversial opinions. If you are a new member, you need to first establish your credentials with the group and earn their respect/friendship before loudly voicing controversial opinions. Liken it to a dinner party with a group of old friends, if you will. A new comer to the group voices strong opinions loudly all night. The group dismisses the newcomer as rude, and opinionated despite the fact the newcomers points may have been valid. Tip # 4 - Have a sense of humour If someone says something you don't like, at first try and take it light-heartedly. Chances are they are just pulling your leg a little bit. Some members like to bait new members a little bit. Try not to get offended. If it gets out of hand or becomes personal rest-assured the admin and moderators will step in and sort it out, but try to remember this is just the internet - its not worth getting worked up about. Tip # 5 - Have fun There are a lot of different people on bimmersport, and this diversity makes it a great place. We have people of all ages, cultures, economic demographics, knowledge and skill levels and tastes. Embrace the diversity, and have fun. We'd love to see you at the next meet so we can put a face to the name and ummm.. talk sh*t and drink the odd beer.... Tip # 6 - Technical Questions suggested by *Glenn* If asking a technical question, please give Model, Year & if possible, last 7 digits of your Vin/Chassis # to get the right help. Tip # 7 - Use the Search button, followed by Google, followed by asking your question here suggested by _Mark_ Chances are your question about how to lower your car, reset your service lights, or install XXX part has been answered before, and probably more than once. If you find the search function on the forum difficult to get a good result from use Google and type "site:bimmersport.co.nz" after your search query. Google will then only display results from this site. Tip # 8 - If you want to discuss illegal or unsafe mods, this site is not for you suggested by Simon* Whilst we encourage modified vehicles, and love that low look, if you want to discuss illegally low setups, dangerous mods such as illegal wheel spacers, cut springs, or similar, then you are not welcome. Most of our members also tend to frown on the whole "gangsta" look SLABs, chromes and big-bores. Some of our members have these, and that is their taste, but if you get a bit of grief about it, that's life. There are plenty of other sites that like that sort of thing. Tip # 9 - This is not bebo suggested by Simon* Keep chat off the forums. Use the PM function, or go to a chat room. No one wants to here your personal conversation. Yes, we know you know the other member, yes we know you think your personal jokes are funny, yes we know you've got nothing else better to do, and we don't want to hear it. We don't want to watch your half-assed attempts at flirting. We don't want to read five pages of smilies. Keep the discussion on topic and keep your personal conversations out of the forum. Tip # 10 - Don't be a postwhore suggested by Grant If you aren't making a useful contribution to the topic at hand, don't reply. Your post count is not some kind of status symbol. If your posts aren't useful, a high post count just means you are even more full of sh*t. If you post whore you run the risk of pissing of other members, moderators, or admin, and thus run the risk of receiving a warning about your behaviour, or having your post count reset to zero. Tip # 99 - Gus thinks he's awesome suggested by Gus As evidenced here: E: Spelling
  10. 6 likes
    I picked up a second hand brake booster for the Saab as it has a leaking seal and I figured it would be easier to swap the seal on a unit out of the car and then just swap the boosters over. I took the booster to a highly recommended / reputable? service party to get their opinion of the unit and a cost to replace the seal. Their response was - seal is toast - unit needs to be completely stripped down using specialist tools to replace the seal - estimated cost $250 plus parts of $45 or more, can't be tested without master cylinder so no warranty on work, one week turn-around. My solution- bought the overpriced seal and fitted it in 10 minutes as it is an external component. Special tools used - trim removal tool, piece of wood and hammer (shaped a cup in the wood to fit round the seal - 30 seconds), old seal removal 30 nano seconds, new seal install - 5 minutes prepping and looking at it and 3 minutes carefully installing it, vacuum tested using vacuum pump and sink plug in master cylinder hole - perfect.
  11. 6 likes
    203,000 KM Finally got the rubber on the rims... OEM Msport style 66 wheels courtesy of @oldskool New tires: Potenza RE003 235/45/R17 Front and S001s 255/40/R17 on the rear. New Hella fog bulbs to match the now whiter headlights. New oil level sensor Oil change + filter New OEM window washer lines and pump....I never new how crucial window washer jets were until I didn't have them!
  12. 5 likes
    Could someone please explain to me how the community reputation works?
  13. 5 likes
    Pretty crap, non stainless perforation. Looks like no expansion joints either. But hayyy its ACs, must be awesome
  14. 5 likes
    Hey guys, I've just got myself an m135i. Loving it so far! Rob
  15. 5 likes
    Yes, thanks Peter, it is mine. It was kind of built in secret from the wife but it will be a very sad day when she goes (the car haha) especially as I never got to complete the project as I wanted her. My reasons for selling have nothing to do with the magnificence of the car and I very much hope the right enthusiast buys her and completes the dream! Cheers Greg
  16. 5 likes
    Well this is coming up to 200k on the clock and instead of selling it I decided to give it a facelift and a refresh Decided to replace all bushes, arms and joints in the front and rear suspension. Then into a full groom, just some of the cleaning produces required for the job Start under the bonnet
  17. 5 likes
    Finally after a long grueling process the v8 has passed all its checks and the cert plate has been ordered. So excited to finally have this car almost completed, unfortunately not early enough to be ready for mega meet. But bring on the summer cruising!
  18. 5 likes
    So some of you probably saw this rather rare manual X5 pop up on TM for approximately 20 seconds this week. I saw it and well... had to buy it straight away. Flew up to Auckland Saturday morning and drove it back to Hastings the very long way. It's fairly tidy. Is a sport package model too with decent history. It does have an aftermarket head unit which I shall be asking members on options to improve that What a stunning machine with the manual!
  19. 5 likes
  20. 5 likes
    Very rare factory 6 speed manual v8 bimmer, South Africa car build sheet shows all Motorsport options. 280k but been well looked after and still drives great I have recently fitted new clutch and radiator, back bumper needs a repair and a/c has not worked since I have owned it never bothered to see why, can deliver free anywhere in NZ. Driving will impress, located in Christchurch $8000
  21. 5 likes
    Alpina XD3 BiTurbo outside work Mt Eden , Auckland earlier today
  22. 5 likes
    My mate and I went out for S drive in both the m3's out in hills πŸ˜‰ Swapping cars comparing the handling, power and gearboxes etc
  23. 5 likes
    15/2/10 - SMG Info update 3/3/09 - Engine oil information update 24/04/09 - Updated rear subframe (first reported case of a CSL - extensive rear modificatoin and solid rear subframe mount - this case is more of an exception than the rule by the looks of things - the tear in the subframe was also quite minor compared to others I have seen) Well a friend of mine from the UK wanted to buy an used one of these and asked me about it. I decided to do a small write up for him on what to look out for when buying one. I've written it based on the 6 speed model (non SMG) and based on the UK specs (in terms of the CS model) - I will update this as I have time and include the SMG models and the CSL models. Most are based on my experience of these cars for the past 8 or more years and various research and reading from the net and some first hand experiences. It is by no means comprehensive and I will need to edit it from time to time. I thought it might be helpful to post this information up seeing that E46 M3s are starting to be very attractively priced. Errors and Omissions excepted: Models: E46 M3 (2000 ~ 2006) E46 M3 CSL (Jun - Dec 2003 only) The ultimate variant of this model E46 M3 CS (a watered down version of the CSL 2005 ~2006) Years to avoid: (in my opinion) 2000 ~ Aug 2003 production - Engine issues (big end bearing tolerance issue resulting in blown engines - worst affected year would be anything made in 2002. A full recall was done by BMW around the world on this, so should you be looking for a car in this age bracket, check with a main dealer that the big end bearing recall has been done) Desirability and model year changes: Whilst the CSL is the ultimate incarnation of the E46 M3, it isn't for everyone. It is a harsh car more suited to the track than the roads of Kensington. The alternative and perhaps a good compromise is the E46 M3 CS. This model has, in addition, to what you will find on an E46 M3: - CSL brakes (345mm on the fronts vs 325mm - larger rear pistons) - CSL suede steering wheel (very nice, but wears badly) - M-Track mode as found on the CSL (awesome on the track) - CSL steering rack 14.5:1 ratio (faster rack - absolutely brilliant) - CSL styled wheels - CSL exhaust system (except for the catalytic converter) The 'facelift' model came in early 2003: The main differences were: - LED tail lights (better looking and two stages depending on brake force applied); - longer boot handle (some say uglier) - Larger 16:9 navigation TV screen (if equipped) - Slightly different suspension, but hardly noticeable to be honest - more interior trim options (most came with the titanium trim) - some minor accessories became standard equipment (nothing to celebrate about) Issues: Focusing on the 3 main areas - mechanical, electrical and chassis I won't focus too much on usual wear and tear that you see on the inside of the car, as these should be obvious upon inspection. MECHANICAL: A. Engine big end bearing: - Original issue came from a third party bearing supplier tooling the tolerances too low, causing oil starvation and premature wear. - recall centered around new bearing sets and new oil pump. - recalled cars have been fine provided it was done properly in the first place. B. Rear differential:- Groaning noise when turning (when car is cold or first thing in the morning) - Actually normal given the high ratio multi plate locking diff that these cars carry. - There is a dealer SIB (service information bulletin) to correct this noise issue - involves a diff oil additive - majority of the cars will have had this done (but still prudent to check) - can get quite annoying after a while. C. Gearbox (6 speed manual): - As with all gearboxes, if treated well, they will last the miles. - Unit is made by Getreg (perhaps the best gearbox company out there), so it is a reasonably reliable gearbox, but higher mileage ones have known to wear synchromesh causing a grinding noise (usually 2nd and 3rd gear). New gearboxes are expensive. - Life time fluid isn't really life time - best to have it changed every 2 years. - Gearbox bracket bushes can wear if driven hard or car tracked often - When purchasing have these inspected as they are reasonably tricky to get to to replace. D. Clutch and flywheel: - Clutch wear depends on the driver. Being a self adjustable clutch kit you can't actually physically feel a difference through clutch engagement point (the self adjusting pressure plate supposedly keeps the engagement point the same throughout the clutch life - the clutch delay valve also hinders this feel in the pedal) - Best way to test this is to throw the car in 3rd gear, push down on the clutch, rev the engine to about 6500 - 7000rpm and drop the clutch and see if it slips (climbing revs without the incidental speed increase) or if you spin up the rear end and feel a thump in the drive train (clutch is good). - There's a usual clonking sound when the clutch pedal is pushed down (especially when coming to a stop abruptly) - this is normal (although you really have to know what you are listening to as there are other abnormal rear end clunks on this car) - this noise is simply the drive train slack and does not affect the overall operation or longevity of the vehicle. - There are some reported cases of flywheel issues, but not common (resultant humming sound) Personally I wouldn't really worry about this one - it's more an acoustic issue than mechanical (it's related to the dual mass flywheel) E. Vanos System: - the S54 engine vanos system is what's known as a high oil pressure system. Being dual vanos it operates on both the intake and exhaust side. - The system is a lot more reliable than those found in the E36 M3 - If you hear rattling noise like marbles in a can coming from the vanos system on start up ... walk away - Or if you hear similar sound as above with rising revs ... walk away. - very expensive to repair if broken ELECTRICAL: A. Ignition Coil: - these are known to fail - no particular cause really - just a wear and tear item. - Check that all cylinders are firing correctly - if not, usually it's due to a bad coil. - easy to DIY, but expensive part to purchase. B. Window regulators: - Expensive part - Have been known to fail on occasions - check that the windows go up and down smoothly and without odd noises from the motor. C. Passenger side airbag sensor mat: - Common part on the BMW to fail for some reason - expensive part (some NZ$380) - Airbag warning light comes on - easy to DIY, but very annoying fix, because you have to take the car to the dealership to have it recoded. D. Alternator and Battery - These are known to go between 60 - 80k km ... especially the alternator. - expensive part brand new from BMW ($1200 for the alternator) - Batteries are about $250 E. Everything else electrical on this car: - Being a modern BMW, nearly ever aspect of the car is electronically controlled, this will mean a trip to the dealer for them to hook it up onto a dealership service computer to clear error codes or to simply programming in new replacement parts before it will start to work. - Luckily not a common occurrence CHASSIS: A. Springs and shocks: - the rear springs are known to snap (attributable to weather condition and other factors - ie. salt on the roads) - It is a warranty repair item, but do check for broken rear springs. - You should hear a noticeable clunk noise when going over bumps and judder bars - Shocks do wear out after about 70,000km (lack of damping or rebound characteristics - i.e. lack of control - M3s should drive like its on rails) - Original shocks can be quite expensive - aftermarket alternatives makes much more sense when they wear out (popular upgrade also) B. Rear Shock Mount: - This is the rubber mount on the rear shock - a very weak design in the car and is known to crack and break - Take off the rear wheel to inspect (look up at the shock mount and look for cracks in the rubber) - Usually require changing after 30,000km and shorter if car is tracked. - If not attended to can lead to torn rear subframe mount and floor (see below) C. Rear Trailing Arm bush (RTAB): - common failure part - circa 50,000km - can only be seen with car up on a hoist - usual cracks in the rubber - this is a very important bush as it controls lateral movement in the suspension and twisting action from the rear chassis torque transfer - if left unattended can lead to subframe mount and floor cracks (see below) - Cheap part, although labour intensive to replace (I have a special tool for this, so not to worry) - Common upgrade is polyurethane bushes (if the car came with these, all the better) - you will hear some creaking noise however with poly bushes - to test if the RTAB is worn, you will notice the following: - Wallowing rear end under acceleration and braking (i.e. the car moves from side to side under heavy acceleration in a rolling start) - the car pulls to one side excessively when braking hard - Knocking sound when turning (although this can be something else also) - Generally speaking the rear end won't feel 'planted' - test this on a flat straight surface D. Front Control Arm bush: - the front equivalent of the rear trailing arm (the bush is located on the aluminum front lower control arm (triangular shape)) - Inspection from under the car - wears out like the RTAB - Front end instability under heavy braking (pulls to one side or wallowing) - Cheap part, but a pain in the ... to change E. Rear Subframe Mounting Floor: - Unfortunately the E46 chassis suffers from a similar catastrophic chassis failure like the E36s - The rear subframe mounting floor can crack and be completely torn off if: - the car has been abused excessively (wheel spins, drifting ect) - Heavily tracked without constant monitoring of the rear bushes - hard impact damage from pot holes - worn RTAB, rear shock mount, and rear subframe bushes - Lift up the boot floor carpet and look for stress cracks in the metal floor (look at the metal joints and sealed joints) - Look under the car floor by the rear subframe mount points (there are 4) - the rear subframe is the big black metal bracket that the rear differential is bolted to (check the rear diff bushes also). - The common points that tend to get torn first is (looking from the rear of the vehicle) left front and right rear - but check all 4 mounting points. - You really need to have the car up on a hoist to check this - Cars made after late 2003/early 2004 had a different rear subframe carrier floor mounted and are supposedly less likely to develop this failure. - the only way to fix this is to disassemble the whole rear end, including taking out the fuel tank and lots of welding. There are re-enforcement kits out there - if you are buying a car with this re-enforcement kit already installed then all the better (provided it was done properly) - Some cars don't actually have a noticeable knocking noise from the rear until the floor is completely torn off (so seeing is better than hearing for diagnostic) - There is a BMW TIS information on this and allows for initial stress fracture repair using and injected structural form. Only works if the stress lines are less than 20mm either side of the mounting hole - anything larger and it's a full floor repair. - [Edit 24/4/09] - THERE'S now been one CSL reported with the subframe tear (Steve Gill's car - he frequents the Nurburgring A LOT (lots of his videos on youtube) - it's a fully resprayed Alpine White CSL) - Few things that make this case unique however - this car runs SOLID rear subframe mounts rather than rubber bushes and it also runs Intrax full coilovers including the rear with really heavy spring rates (stock set up has separate springs and damper set up) - Given the extensive tracking of Steve's car and the solid rear modifications (no roll cage or bar) one can assume that this might be an exception - there fore the comment below would still stand in my opinion ------ No CSLs have been known to have this issue (as strange as it may sound, it is a fact - one would think that a torque induced stress failure would be more prevalent on a higher powered car with almost slick tyres, yet there have been no reported failures on CSLs - some have suggested that this may be a weight thing, given the CSLs are over a 100kg lighter; others propose that CSL owners are fanatics and maintain their cars to a lot higher standard, hence the lack of the failures) So that's about all the MAJOR issues you need to know when looking for an E46 M3. Don't be phased about buying one because one of the above could potentially go wrong - the reality is, it is a rare occurrence and good examples are aplenty if you take the time and effort to look for it. There are a couple of things that I have not gone into, such as worn brakes, brake discs (warping - juddering under braking) - or accident damage repairs (which should be obvious). ENGINE OIL .... THERE IS ONLY 1: - There are mixed information out there about the engine oil for the S54B32, some say there's two approved oil out there, whilst others stand by the fact that there's only 1 approved BMW engine oil for this motor. - THERE IS ONLY ONE APPROVED BMW ENGINE OIL FOR THIS MOTOR PERIOD!! So where's the confusion coming from? - well put simply, different branding between different continents. And the initial information from BMW that Castrol RS 10W-60 was also an approved oil in the Training manual for the S54B32 - it no longer is and have not been since end of 2002 when engines started blowing up. The ONLY Approved oil is: Castrol TWS 10W-60 (or the UK equivalent Castrol Edge 10W-60) - These two are the SAME OIL, just different branding between different continents. Castrol Edge "Sport" 10w-60 IS NOT AN APPROVED OIL and not the same as the UK version of Castrol Edge 10w-60 Here's the spec for the TWS TWS Motorsport 10-60 Relative density @ 20.0 deg C = 0.865 Viscosity at 40 deg C = 163.1 Viscosity at 100 deg C = 24.3 Viscosity Index = 181 Flash Point (closed) deg C = 198 Pour point deg C = -42 TBN = 8.1 Information on: Castrol Edge in the UK http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdeta...ntentId=7027067 Castrol TWS data sheet http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/4247_TWS...397_2006_09.pdf In comparison to Castrol Edge "sport" data sheet (you'll notice quite a difference between the two) http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/4398_EDG...0W60_200601.pdf So remember to put the correct oil into your motor. Oil spec SMG Info: I would do a write up on SMG, but to be honest I'd just be repeating this thread http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=231113 The above is the best source for all things SMG (bar the workshop manual and service tech information booklet). There's a couple of things that can go wrong with the SMG, mainly eletrical (relays, sensors - there's multiple of them) and some hydraulic (the pump itself or the pressure accumulator) and the least mechanical (compression spring or synchronmesh). All in all it is actually a fairly reliable system - the trouble is your generic OBD2 tools can't diagnose what is wrong with it. If any of you with a SMGII or SMGIII car wants a diagnostic on the Autoenginuity tool, hit me up - more than happy to hook it up and see what is wrong with it.
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    Did some late night wrenching after my E36 failed WoF (front outter ball-joints loose). Removed Control Arms to replace the ball-joints. Got carried away and: Removed rear caliper and discs, cleaned up hubs and dust covers. I picked up some E46 328i rear calipers and discs to replcace them with as they're a slight upgrade on the E36 rear end. Will be on the hunt for 330i front brakes next. Pulled old shocks (labelled as 318is, in a 6cyl, may have contributed to soft rear end) before I upgrade the suspension front and back. Also have some new rear side window seals to replace the cracked and hardened ones on there atm.
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    All these guys were great; @BM WORLD I've bought a few things from Brent - great as always. @needsprings - doors @gjm - towbar @EUROHO - body panels @Olaf - springs and MD headdeck @francoisv - e36 shell All I can remember for now.
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    .. it is a 6 speed manual JCW cooper S
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    @Gabe79Here's my experience.... In May/June last year I was on the look out for an E39 Motorsport. After driving a 1998 528i that I had purchased from my father after he purchased a 2000 540i Motorsport for himself... I wanted more! I was struggling to decide between the 530i and 540i. 540i Pros: More power/torque, V8 wank factor/fanboy Cons: Costly timing guide issues, uses more fuel, higher maintenance costs in general 530i Pros: Smaller engine/alloy sub frame = less weight over the front end for better handling, nicer steering, better fuel mileage, cheaper to maintain. Cons: Less power, a bit sluggish off the mark. I decided to go for a 530i I kept a close eye waiting for the right car to come up. Suddenly a 2002 540i in Silver popped up with 199kms (don't expect to find these in low kms unless you want to pay a lot) After looking at it, driving it and finding a few unmentioned issues... i thought f**k it, i'll just buy a 540i. Got it home and spent a whole day cleaning it and made a list of things that required attention. Issues: -Both front seats had the issue of twisting when adjusting certain ways - i fixed this myself at no cost, google/youtube is your friend. This was an issue for 2001- 2003 E39s -Spare key had a flat battery - replaced battery and reset both keys following a sequence - google/youtube -Minor interior issues - all fixed using new parts or parts from wrecking yards -My 540i had the auto dimming wing mirror lenses, they fail and bleed liquid, very expensive to replace - ended up fitting the normal blue lenses. -Kidney grilles are loose and don't sit flush to the bonnet - yet to replace. I have kept a document of service history.. July 30th 2016 – 205,654kms -Valve covers pulled, stripped, painted, new gaskets/bolt grommets fitted. -Replaced positive jumper terminal casing on valve cover -Fuel filter replaced -Air filter replaced -Oil filter replaced -Timing chain tensioner replaced -Spark plugs replaced -Engine oil/filter changed – Total 9000 10w-40 -Differential fluid changed, new crush washers used. -New front rotors, front pads and rear pads. Bled system with new fluid. Labour performed by myself. August 23rd 2016 – 207,342kms -Windshield replaced by NOVUS under insurance. August 26th 2016 - 207,521kms -4 New Tyres 2x 235/45/17 2x 255/45/17 -Wheel alignment. Labour performed by The Bling Company, Te Rapa, Hamilton. September 15th 2016 – 210,744kms -CEL – Misfire on cylinder 5, Coil pack on Cylinder 5 failed. -Replaced with new unit, cleared error code. Item purchased from Repco. Labour performed by myself. November 27th 2016 – 215,126kms -CEL and a small ticking noise, I killed the engine straight away. CEL = Intake cam over advance. Removing lower oil pan revealed small pieces of timing chain guide had started to break away. – Common issue with M62TUB44 engine. Researched repair procedures, decided to replace other items, gaskets, seals, water pump, thermostat, coolant hoses/pipes, oil separators, all intake seals, tensioners, pulleys, belts, vacuum hose etc whilst everything was apart as well as rebuilt both VANOS units using the Besian procedure. Labour performed by myself January 16th 2017 - 218,XXXkms CEL- Oxygen sensor bank 2 - cleared the code - hasn't come back. So... A few tips for the timing guide procedure if you were to ever head down that road.... -Research, I spent about two weeks doing researching everything single little thing - I was lucky to have another car to drive. -Spend time confirming part numbers and making lists of the parts you need and tipple checking. www.realoem.com is good for this -I highly recommend replacing other items whilst you're in that deep. -You definitely require the special timing tool kit for the M62. I managed to rent a kit. -I bought the crankshaft holder tool and the Vanos press tool. Other tools, torx and e-torx sockets, seal picks and a left hand torque wrench -Take your time and label/bag up all items. Have a clean working surface when doing the Vanos rebuild. -Thourolghy inspect and clean oil pick up as you will find tiny bits of chain guid -Have a laptop out in the shed for easy access to forums/help -Be very careful removing plastic parts as they can be brittle - replace if you think it needs replacing -Take special care installing alternator with new seal as I pinched mine which caused a small coolant leak. $65 from the dealer instead of $14 from Pelican for the same part.... -Buy a cheap scan tool cable that plugs into a laptop - they work well just for pulling codes and clearing them. -Once you have completed the job successfully. I recommend changing the oil and filter within a few hundred kms just in case any debris/tiny bits of chain guide were still in the engine. In conclusion: It's a massive job, I reckon I spent about 50 hours doing this - a lot of pissing around triple checking, cleaning, torquing etc. There's a lot of info on the internet about all this, as well as some good youtube videos. You can do this job quite a bit cheaper if you only want to replace the timing chain associated items. I'm a fussy prick though and will be keeping my 540i for as long as I can. I f**king love it. She's done 221kms now and still running perfectly. Doing the Vanos rebuild was well worth the time, no more vanos rattle and a noticeable increase in torque down low. Wreckers/Pick a part can be great for replacing those pesky interior items. I have learn't a a lot, spent a lot of money but had some good fun. I am about to do the exact same procedure on my fathers 540i just for peace of mind. Happy to rent out my vanos press tool and crankshaft holding tool for a small amount. Fee free to PM me if you have any questions. Could also scan and send my invoices of parts/cost if you really wanted.
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    Replaced the fuel pump. All sorted. Thanks to @_ethrty-Andy_ for coming along with a pump.
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    Picked this up a few months ago. Came with Schnitzer Kit Inc suspension, bodykit, exhaust, strut bar, steering wheel etc. Is a NZ new manual HD12 with black leather m-tech seats. I swapped the original Schnitzer wheels out with BBS rs 005 & 006 that I refurbed a few years ago with new Turanza tyres, it gave me a 1cm lift I needed to get up driveways etc. Very happy with the cars performance & driveability. If anyone knows more about the cars history I would be keen to hear. Previous owner also threw in new Jim Conforti chip I'm yet to install.
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    Probably bound for Brent
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    does anyone else watch this, has some very interesting stuff
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    It's been a while - had to work over labour weekend so no progress for 2 weeks. I now have a week off work as days in lieu... Since HB day was on the Friday I got 4 days so took a days annual as well. The only thing left to do is test the software. I'll start this tomorrow and see how badly wrong it is. Following is some progress photo's. The new PCB fits where the old aluminum water pipes came out and headed towards the firewall. I've bunged up the two openings where the water pipes and aircon pipes came through. Where the old heater core used to sit also needed a plate fitted which worked out well because it's also where the cables now come out. A plate was fabricated to fit and then holes drilled for the cable entry. The cables that go out to the water solenoid on X35 and X10054 have been clipped off near the connectors and joined into the control cables for the new board. This means the original solenoid plug can be cut off or just tied off (at least it's not powered now). Side view showing how the board fits where the pipes came out. Original Plugs and new main power relays New Power Relays - the main power connection goes onto the unused tabs. Another view, looking from the front. Heater cores with all the wiring installed. The blue cables are shielded signal types which connect to the LT9701 temperature sensors clamped under the rectangular blocks of ally.
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    ^^^^^ All very true Andrew. Off topic to EV's but look what has happened to listening to music - done the full circle back to turntable. Not all new tech is best...
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    Where batteries come from ... it’s the new blood diamond.
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    Makes me chuckle when people do the old 'chain driven so no need to worry about cambelt' line. Yeah no cambelt but you get cost cutted chain design that only lasts twice as long as a cambelt but costs 3x as much to fix.
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    99% awesome. 1% cringe for linglong tyres though..
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    One of these is not like the other...
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    Hey Amrit and welcome to BimmerSport! Bit of a old Subby fan myself but now a Bimmer guy I think you should look at something like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1439430561.htm modernised LCI variant (arrived in 2007 - you can tell by the gearshift) optional 19"s Alu interior trim is the nicest looking Features Dynamic Drive - this is a big help with handling on these big cars @Olaf has driven and compared E60s with and without Dynamic Drive and there's a noticeable difference Hifi Pro - very good sound system Bluetooth phone interface HUD - this rocks - love it in my M5 looks like it has aftermarket exhaust tips Includes balance of a mech warranty In terms of an E60 sedan but not an M5 this is about as good as it gets. When looking at the exact spec, put the rego into Carjam to get the VIN, and then put the last 7 characters into www.bimmer.work/ to get full detail. The 550i has 270KW which is a good stack of power so I don't think you'll be disappointed. This one also looks great: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1395272527.htm - very similar but in Akld and $2K less ..... but with std 18"s and wood trim. It's with a dealer so definitely take it for a test drive. Costs/risk ... Don't expect lower service costs, and in my experience (admittedly with older/higher kms BMWs than these) with age the plastics and rubbers deteriorate and can require costly repairs - not so much parts as labour. My advice is always get a warranty/mech breakdown insurance (Autosure/DPL is brilliant)- and keep some $$ in reserve. NEVER spend all of your budget on the vehicle. The biggest things to be aware of is valve guide seals - and make sure your sunroof drains aren't clogged or you can soak your car interior (yes really). Cars with detailed service history are strongly preferable always get an expert pre-purchase inspection done There is a very useful guide to E60s attached. All the best with your shopping process!!! I think they're fantastic cars. So You Just Bought an E60 (V3.0).pdf
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    Still got the mini, I got another E46 but these wheels are going on our new family wagon E91 Photos to come once they are fitted..
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    And a bit of bodywork back on. Still lots of panel alignment and undertrays, brackets, grille etc to go.
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    Car is sold pending collection in 2 weeks time. Im sure the new owner will chime in once he has got it home safely (to Vellington - @Olaf )
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    I hear ya... The adhesive pads are a "use once" deal so of course they would not replace it, unless a new screen comes with a pad which you'd like to think they would? I have some on the way off ebay. Interestingly with the sensor disconnected the wipers revert to a normal intermittent mode... Also bought one of those cassette tape input thingys, plugged it into a cheapo Bluetooth thingy and now have phone media connectivity with a sound that is surprisingly good... eat ya heart out Dynavin... Console back together now and looking good...
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    I like the term GWP = Global Warming Potential, the big boogey man! So, yes we are considering C02 emissions etc. Where do they measure the levels of highly toxic waste that are produced for the different vehicles? It doens't cause global warming, but I still don't want to eat it. There is a very large and powerful lobby that pushes this barrow, and you are rounded on if you question it. Yes, there are many benefits across a number of metrics, however the disadvantages are conveniently forgotten and the topic quickly changed. Anywho, this thread is about the i8 for sale, which is actually a PHEV, not a hybrid there is a big difference, so lets maybe just stick to that shall we?
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    Got to hoon around Taupo Track/ Bruce McLaren Motorsport Park in a single seat race car today as my 30th bday present, very cool- highly recommended to all! Still wondering where the bit between taking off and the checkered flag went..... PS dont loose track of what gear you are in, trying to exit the hairpin in 2nd instead of 3rd means too much wheelspin will send you off!
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    @EURO V12 sorry to hear that, man. come on crew, who's gonna scoop this legendary 5er up, and give it some TLC?
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    Managed a little bit over the weekend on wiring up of the JB4 additional injector controller, getting the pumps into the tank and wired up, all hoses connected etc. Almost there. Managed to get the mirror attached to the base plate for the RHS. Ill mount it up and see how if looks, then make adjustments from there, ready for scanning. Its pretty solid/strong so far, perfect for playing around with, using marine ply then thermoset plastic, let it set then drill into it for the mounts. Then I can play around with the mirror angle. Bog & beatification comes later...
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    a little below the "ASKING PRICE" in the international market -there is a glut of these for sale, and a lot of them are sale proof- unrealistic vendors not moving to meet the market. At the asking price you could buy several cars that would satisfy the most ardent enthusiast amongst us and still have several thousand dollars left in your wallet!
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    Modern epoxy is stronger than welding. a lot of new cars are now bonded with adhesive ... actually almost all new modern composite supercars have non composite crash structures bonded to composite. Since I think 2005, BMW have been using adhesives as an approved repair method for repairing front ends of a lot of their new cars. The reality with the way the RACP is layered (4 layers including the stud mount) in the rear boot floor of the E46 chassis also means it is impossible to rust proof every single surface that welding comes into contact with. Not to mention the fact that welding is impossible for this car as the rear mounting has already been injected with bmw approved epoxy filler. Which I might add has proven to be an effective repair method for a road car. In my humble opinion, the only sure way this can be prevented or repaired without future failures elsewhere is a GTR style rear bar that spreads the load correctly into the rear main chassis, a full coilover style rear suspension and solid mounting the rear subframe craddle. It is a shame that all of this could have been prevented by BMW had they created a different rear subframe stud mount that actually tied into the rear chassis legs in the first place.