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Found a wrecked msport and finally swapped over all the interior to spec, first and last type of job i think. The car was identical spec to @Autoglym one, born 3 days before even. It came with BMW individual interior that included extended leather option (leather door handles and center console) as well as the sliding arm rest and ski bag. Also got a spare msport bumper now and a bunch of spares which is always a good thing as these things are getting on now. Will be swapping back on my old wheel once i get some alloy trim to replace the wood, always preferred the thinner type and BMW changed the wiring setup so you cant plug in half the wheel controls with my car Certainly come along way from what it was

You do need them for a WOF if they came from factory with one, been like that for a long time https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-emissions

@qube photos can be deceiving as I've hit the jackpot as previously mention, wheels are genuine Works Wheel Japan (not China shite), forge alloy reverse mount. The insurance cover just went up!

Im new here, I will post more photos. My first BMW and loving it.

Well I guess all the "WANTED: 4DOOR M3" threads on here amounted to nothing or this would have sold well before it even got to TM. Awesome car in a stunning and rare colour.

Amazon International doesn't ship to Australia at all, but amazon.com.au has most things from Amazon International anyway, and they have Prime. So in many ways, they got a better deal in the end. The selection is more limited, but what Amazon does sell ships a lot cheaper to AU now. This thread makes me think I should travel home to the US more often and bring back some heavy things in my luggage selectively.

Whilst I agree with this answer, and I have axel stands... I also have a ramp which I made from materials from bunnings, looks a lot like the drawings above... I had to put my 530i on the ramps before I could jack them up to put them on the stand! For oil changes I just used the ramp. For real work, I used the ramp then the stands. A reasonable compromise, which I was aiming towards before my car met it's untimely wall-death... was a small ramp to get on the jack stands. Yes, the simple version is two ramps!

That may indeed be a blessing for the professional workshop operator.

Cheers @WYZEUP! You were a help re cert process a couple months back when I messaged you. Still have the WOF to get when the cert plate arrives, and one of the things I failed a WOF on was headlight direction. Thought I'd show a wee before and after/how-to on the process. Firstly, remove the 2 screw from the grille along with the 3 clips on top. Then I removed the 3 screws holding the headlight assembly to the car, along with the 3 very brittle plugs at the rear. You'll be left with something very mad max looking after you also remove the clips from the kidneys. My WOF guy didn't want to touch the headlight adjusters as they were seized up and didn't want to risk breaking them. A couple squirts of silicone penetrant and a wriggle of the adjuster with pliers on the metal free'd them up good as gold. Also took off the headlight metal surrounds to remove the light surface rust and give them a quick paint. Only paint I had lying around was Arctissilber from the E36 😅 But it actually looks really nice. Job done. Had a quick line up of the headlights on the garage door but now that the adjusters move freely under finger tips, I'll let him use his reflector to dial it in. A keen eye will notice I've removed the IS lip. This lip is less prone to driveway scrapes when toing and froing from WOF/CERT etc.

Thanks guys. This is the kit I got. I chose dark red for both colour options. https://www.lseat.com/products/1984-1991-bmw-e30-sport-325-318-custom-real-leather-seat-covers-front.html For the foam repair, I got a piece of "firmish" density foam (similar to OEM), as well as a thin soft foam. Both from Para Rubber. I removed the worst of the crumbling original foam, and then cut a few pieces to fill in the missing parts/holes. Using some spray on contact adhesive, I glued the replacement pieces in. For the lower side bolster, I added some extra bits to help deal with some extra abuse. The upper side bolster was shaped with bastard file (aggressive enough to wear away at the foam), but I've seen cheese graters used as well. Once the main pieces are shaped nicely, I covered them with a layer of the thin foam to smooth out the top surface. With the leather pulled over the bolsters, I could not notice any evidence of foam repair. I should also mention that I used a clothing steamer to rejuvenate the original foam. The steam caused the foam to expand a surprising amount. I would highly recommend doing this.

Spark plugs and coils is my go to idle/misfire fix.

14.6 with her just mashing the peddle when the light turned green. And 216kph. It hits a brick wall at around 200. Probably because it changes up early. She was saying it changes up to 6th early. But wasn't used to the paddles so just left it in sport to do it on its own. Should mention the 1/4 mile was a little long. And the 1 mile a little short. Measurement tools were limited.

Can everyone stop buying houses so I can buy one and have somewhere to put cars like this I want to buy? Good luck with the sale. Great base for a race car or road car.

Started experiencing a lumpy idle on start up, intermittent sluggishness when driving a few weeks ago along with some odd gearbox behavior. i scanned the car, got a p0369 crank shaft sensor intermittent code. After some googling and reading ordered a new sensor from Coombes (genuine is best) and it was off to Mosens for fitment along with a gear box flush. Got the car back today, feels like new. So smooth in both engine and gearbox departments. Brilliant!

A friend of mine has bought this Imola Red E39 M5 and it will be moving up to Auckland.

Another 130, another oil well. I'm starting to believe they put these covers under them all these days to stop people realising the engines are sieves. How hard can it be to make an engine/gasket that doesn't leak terribly? Seems like if I want one I'm going to need to stump up the $1500 for another 10 years of 'might not leak much'. Gotta love that effortless power delivery though. They all seem poorly sprung, or under dampened, very nervous at speed, I wonder what the best non-adjustable option is and how much that would add to the total bill? Slightly softer springs might be enough.

There is a statutory declaration form which you need to get signed off by a JOP then the plates will be entitled to your name. You need to send this to licensys. Not vtnz, nzta, or kiwiplates. You can do this if you own the car the plates are on and it has been over 30 days. after that you can just go to a VTNZ and go fill out a form for replacement plates to standard govt issue in order to sell your car. $25~ then you do another of the same form when you want to replace the plates on your new car with the personalised plates. $5~ you don’t need to do the stat declaration and still move the plates around your cars but you can’t get it remade unless it’s in your name.

okay, here's one of mine...

Come on boys and girls, I think this has gone about as far as it needs to here. An indeterminate number of people are feeling aggrieved, and are taking legal advice on the matter. Views have been cast here. The seller has presumably pocketed some money and has a couple of his late father's cars off of the family lawn. We're a broad community; the purchaser is probably amongst us as well. Can we move on, or do some of you want to keep picking at the scab?

Hi all , new member here. I purchased my first f10 m5 competition pack last Sunday. Enjoy driving it more day by day. It's in Singapore grey & has the carbonexterior pack, also only 1 previous owner & just touched 11k miles.

The sport seats had arrived, and just needed to be recovered before I could put them in the car. As soon as the leather upholstery kit was delivered, I dived straight into the first seat. Many zipties were used... Some foam was repaired on the side bolster. The next seat was for the driver side. This one had taken a bit more abuse, and needed some more serious foam repair. The rest of the second seat was the same as the first. The seat rails were cleaned up and repainted. Both seats mostly back together. I still need to do some work on the back covers. I'm stoked with the result. I think they look great, although I may still need to tweak fitment in a few places. Quite happy with the quality of the leather kit, especially for the relatively low price.

FCPeuro it. Lifetime warranty.

Awesome looking, they look like they were styled by Gerry Anderson

😁

** SOLD ** Hi there, I'm now selling my trusty 328 daily. Perfect for a daily or as a track-rat manual conversion. Lots of work and new parts, all done proper. I can do a live INPA code read for any serious buyers. The Basics 1996 E36 328i automatic coupe Full motorsport trim and options Cosmos Black Sunroof (fully working + no leaks) ~158,000 kms Current warrant and reg Recent alignment Japanese import OBC equipped but disconnected (replaced with analogue clock and storage pocket) Heaps more info and pics: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56912-another-e36-my-328-beater/ CarJam: https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=DYZ448 VIN Decoder: https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lookup/WBABG22090ET22388 The Good New (<3000km's) aluminium radiator New water pump, thermostat and housing, coolant hoses (x5), expansion tank New belts and pulleys (including upgrade from mechanical to hydraulic tensioner) Refurbished steering rack (from my M3) + new fluid, reservoir, lines, bolts and washers M3 suspension (shocks, springs, swaybars, top hats) New droplinks and all suspension bushes, bump stops, mounting hardware New M3 F+R shock tower reinforcements New (<500km's) OEM M3 (Sachs) shocks x4 New FLCA bushings New intake elbow New rear wheel bearings Fully replaced interior (F+R seats and F+R door cards) in M-Rain and leather, amazing 8/10 condition Replacement (OE) airbag steering wheel with no cracks/splits in the leather Super-fast rear lip spoiler (estimated 15rwhp + swooning from women) Recent proper oil flush (8 litres) + refill (Penrite 5w-40 full synth) and filter Recent full transmission flush and refill. New air filter Replacement sump and new sump gasket Comes with new valve cover gasket set (x3), new fuel filter, new coolant level sensor (all still in original packaging) The Bad The battery isn't too strong, probably needs replacing in next 12 months The Jatco gearbox is a bit weak but doesn't clunk and if treated with consideration works just fine One key and only works in ignition and LHS door (but comes with two working remotes to lock/unlock) No air-con (compressor and belt removed but included in sale) Probably still a vacuum leak or two, a smoke test would be ideal (runs fine, but occasionally hunts for idle) The Ugly Pretty much every panel has some damage, either bodywork or paint, but it looks fine from 10m away 😉 RHS interior c-pillar trim not attached ** SOLD **

I've snapped this up as a daily driver to be converted into a track hack down the road. Found that while the E30 was capable around the track, there were compromises being made because I wanted to keep it as a daily.

6 December 2019. 177399kms 1. Replaced Air Conditioning Drive Belt, and Serpentine Belt. Jon at Auto38 had it done quickly. The N62 in e60 chassis has no tensioner for the A/C belt (unlike the 7er of the time), so ensuring the belt is in a state of good repair, is essential. By all accounts they're a right sh#t to change, so I thought sourcing the tool for the job might be a worthwhile thing. The Serpentine belt wasn't that old, but if you're going to take it off to replace the A/C belt, might as well do it, eh. Next: Belt tensioner and pulley.

On road I would agree. That 16s are probably the limit. Handling gets a bit too harsh after that.

Coils gone. Does nobody change their coolant!?

Glad to hear!

All sorted guys - returned the originals and went to NZKW, fit straight away..

Is it the original BMW battery? If so, white = lead acid, black = AGM Having thought about it some more, 75aH is unlikely to be original battery as they typically tend to be 70,80,90 etc

Complete head required. If possible head alone, but would accept a complete engine. Cheers.

Hah, in what context?

Sorted today, rear fast-flow type box with appealing looking tips I think. Thank you one & all for all the recommendations and advise. Next week job are the rimms to be cleaned up & front left buckle sorted fingers crossed.

style 42 from e36, has less dish and higher offset than the nicer 17x8 et20 ones from the e39.

I can neither confirm nor deny the existence of a question to the same end. Nor would I encourage others to - singly - ask a similar question... though I wouldn't suggest they shouldn't, either.

Treated myself too, found some second hand mtech sills for my 335i in great condition from dismantler. Old ones were scratched and rubberery part was hardened and cracked - still have them so I peeled of the soft lip down to the hard black plastic... Doesn't actually look half bad

Thanks! Not sure which specific ones yet, angling for some 18's. Quite like the look of the ZHP's, was keen on ones but turned out to be a shoddy set. Just keeping an eye out really, don't want to spend a stupid amount. 68's will do for now, have plenty of tread left on the tyres so not in much of a hurry. Need to take care of the mechanics of it first anyway. Wondering if it's worth getting spacers for the meantime though, they sit stupidly deep inside the arch, doesn't look right. 20mm rear and 10/12mm front should be optimal from what I've read?

There's a bluetooth kit you can get from the warehouse for about $35 that plugs into your cigarette lighter spot. They're awesome I have one in my M3 and it it means you get to keep your factory head unit. https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/tech.inc-bluetooth-fm-transmitter/R2279211.html

BMW parking for sure.

Thinking of just debadging it altogether. If it ever gets to the point where the whole car goes for a respray, I'd probably get rid of the emblems as well

My experience in similar accidents (although anecdotal) is that the reversing party is almost invariably found to be at fault. No excuse for the speed the van was moving at, and the van driver would have had a decent view of you and your movement, and should have acted accordingly. He was probably on his phone so not looking at the parked cars.

Are we even talking about the same thing here...? The M2 race car in the original post? Have spent a bit of time googling to try and find this euro50k factory racer, but with no joy. If it’s twice as fun, for the 50k, it should be a great package!

Finally got into the OBC menu and have been monitoring it, swapped in a new thermostat today and it's made a huge difference, KTMP is now a constant 88°-92° on the open road - apparently it's a common problem with the thermostats failing on these? Yeah, manifold was cracked, probably warped as well (leaking between manifold and head around #4), the downpipes from the turbo wasn't tight at all (I could rotate it by hand), and hte turbo support bracket wasn't bolted to the turbo - I dare say that would've contributed to the cracking. So it's now swapped for a cast job, no more diesel smell. Might be worth checking your thermostats, mine was exactly the same but a new one has sorted it and it's at correct temp now.

Something not seen being driven too often. Well not here locally anyway...

Just saw 'MHW' tail lights advertised at $2400 AU. WTF? Many E30s aren't worth that!

Its been years since I've been on this forum but I hate to think what my old cars are now worth in this market. This is more an exercise on the money spent and the cars now lost to me! M325 318is manual e36 touring ac schnitzer body kit All NZ new. Gone but not forgotten!

That stanced 3.0CS looks so good. What is it about classics dropped on big rims that works so well..?