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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Well 2019 is looking promising so far! Late 2018 I dropped the car off to Steven Sole Customs here in New Plymouth for a full panel and paint. IMG_5774.MOV With the car back home now I'm still slowly piecing it all back together. joined_video_ce80f80f32c2432181c062f99dc66cbf.mp4 Next on the list is the interior, Stay Tuned.
  2. 8 points
    Small update Received a message from the engineer saying he has finished the CAD work of the lower portion of the intake manifolds and injector fuel rail. All to fit and sit nicely between the heads in the valley.
  3. 7 points
    Finally put the style 5's on. Center caps are off until I get the tool. The center caps are also a slightly different silver, not sure what to do about this. Anyone refurbed a set of style 5's and have some pointers?
  4. 7 points
    Finally got time to clean it today.
  5. 7 points
    There goes the next two pages...
  6. 7 points
    217,500km CLUNK ELIMINATED turned out the engine mounts weren't torqued correctly....opps, my bad. The mounts were new.....guessing maybe they weren't fully loaded when i torqued them.....either way they are torqued now...they were out by about half a turn. The car is driving amazing..I am loving it. Gotta laugh at how much stuff I've replaced trying to solve the noise, not to mention the two shops i took it to who also didn't pick it up. Jon was on the right track though thinking it was an installation error as opposed to a failed part...expensive lesson in DIY'ing, don't think the car is worse off for it though. We celebrated with an oil and filter change ๐Ÿพ
  7. 6 points
    Spotted on several overseas websites/facebook pages:
  8. 6 points
    With reluctance I am putting my E30 M3 up for sale. It required some work to be made road legal and I dont have the time or cash to commit to it. So - M3, the car that BMW perfected the art of producing a homologation special. 2.3, 1989 European specification. Type code AK05. This is a 215hp non cat variant, chassis number WBSAK050570AE40925 It started life in Germany and after about 10 years moved to UK. It was de registered and moved to Portugal where it was used as a track day car. It was imported to NZ and has only done a handful of miles in the last 9 years. Odometer 250,905 km. Still on UK plates it will need compliance to be registered in NZ This car does required some work to get it back to its M3 glory. It has the headlining and carpet removed. It is missing some interior parts in boot. There is some rust in the left inner guard and number plate lights. Non standard exhaust, missing fog lights. Otherwise it is very original, unmolested example of the best version that is not an Evo. Sits on Evo 2 16 inch wheels. No evidence of repairs except strengthening front anti roll bar mounts on chassis rails. As it is not road legal test drives are restricted. If you know what an E30 M3 is, and have $55,000, then please message me. Location south Auckland. The only swap that is of interest is cash. This is an opportunity to own a real M3 with some work, and price reflects that. Comes with some required spares such as door cards, sunroof, boot interior that have been collected over the last 9 years.
  9. 6 points
    Picked up the new car today. A special dealer edition
  10. 6 points
    Simply couldnโ€™t resist doing this to it. Itโ€™s like dailying a CSL
  11. 6 points
    $17,500 Reason for selling I now have a M3 project and time, space and the CFO donโ€™t allow more than one project at a time. Sad but true. Iโ€™m hoping someone will carry on this project or at the very least enjoy and look after it. Was originally an auto 320i from Japan imported 1998. Now its a certified M20B28 manual. I started this project 18 months ago to build a Alpina B3. The base coupe was in excellent condition and owned by a local mechanic with an extensive array of vehicles who carried out the M20B25 and manual swap using an 1988 E34 donor. The paint (Diamond Swartz Metallic) is in excellent condition (believe it has been re-sprayed at some stage) and only rust I have found was in the trailing rail in the sunroof and surface rust on battery tray which both have been treated and painted. Some blemishes on roof requiring attention. Note speedo had stopped working and I installed a replacement with similar mileage working cluster. An extensive list of restoration and modifications have been carried out with receipts & photos available (I know should have done a plog). Certified by LVVTA with WOF and rego. RESTORED & MODS DRIVE TRAIN, EXHAUST & ECU M20B25 out of an E34 at 140xxx New timing belt, tensioner, water pump and drive belts (March 2019) Lightened m20 Flywheel Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper Squidsss Stage 1.5 chip M30 AFM Professionally restored 30lb 4 pintle injectors OE Alpina headers with HPC coating 2 1/2 straight pipe exhaust with front resonator and rear muffler with BMW chrome tip Getrag gearbox with new OE Z3 short shift Replacement m20 clutch kit Med case open diff 3.64 with AKG bushing All fluids have been changed (coolant, engine oil, gearbox and diff) STEERING, BRAKNG & SUSPENSION E36 steering rack with Astra steering linkage Willwood 4 pot front callipers and rotors with fast road pads New rotors and pads in the rear incl. handbrake shoes New brake lines front and rear Bilstein Sport shocks and springs front and rear(lowered 20-25mm) with new OE spring pads OE front strut mounts XYZ Camber adjusters front New front CABs New OE front sway bay bushes with Mondeo SW links AKG Rear subframe poly bushes RUFF Eccentric trailing arm bushes RUFF rear shock mounts Whiteline 16mm rear sway bar New OE rear sway bar links and bushes Alignment set-up carried out by Specialist New L&R rear wheel bearings EXTERIOR & INTERIOR Alpina (ex-Germany) Wheels 16โ€ staggered 8โ€ & 7.5โ€ with 205/50 & 225/45 Dunlop Sport Max+ OE Alpina front spoiler OE Alpina steering wheel Fully rebuilt and functioning Air Conditioning (March 2019) New OE bonnet insulation New door glass rubber weather strips New sunroof seal Sports seats in good condition no rips or tears Battery moved to boot using E36 cable Remote locking Electric windows Power mirrors Blaupunkt head unit with AUX In and new R&R speakers PARTS AVAILABLE WITH SALE (not available separately) M52B28 short block - plan was to stroke engine using crank and rods with custom pistons but the engine runs so sweet didnโ€™t have the heart nor the time. Original M20B25 AFM, new intake boot, injectors and chip Replacement dash (3 small cracks but repairable) Secondhand replacement carpet in good condition
  12. 6 points
    Hi Team Very long time and no post. Alot has been happening as to why i haven't posted. Today is a very sad day but also good and exciting. For you all that have been following this build know i was going to use the Green e46 sedan as my platform for the v12 build. After some serious thinking i couldn't give this opportunity up. I am the new proud owner of this rolling body M3 ( thanks paul ) Some of you may hate the bodykit but its slowly growing on me. Well see you how we go as i may convert it back to factory. which has meant that i am selling the green sedan. I have just sold the red coupe and have also purchased the v8 wagon ( thanks eddy) Great work horse as i have more space for parts now. So again ill be adding the wagon build to this thread just so i dont have a million build threads going. Wagon e46: currently has M60B30 v8 motor and auto in. Plans to convert M60B44 supercharged manual. I purchased a M62B44tu a few months back Also pulled the M60 heads of my spare car ready for the M60B44 build So thats pretty much what has been happened in the past few months. Now that the new M3 car has the whole rear end included, so I can now use the other M3 rear end for the Wagon supercharge swap which works out perfect. Now also all the parts that were intended for the green sedan will be used on either the M3 or wagon. I will be install the XYZ adjustables into the wagon tomorrow. Will post pictures if i get time. Thanks Richard
  13. 6 points
    What'd you do your mancave today.. Still has room for the hoist, bank account needs to recover some first
  14. 5 points
    New to the forum, forums generally. Looking to buy a e90 325i Motorsport wagon and advice through purchase and ownership. Would love a 335i but perhaps a stretch to justify but twist my rubber arm. Currently own a Lancia Integrale and a Land Rover discovery. As a 17 year old went in the red e46 M3 demonstrator when they first came out. Keen to learn.
  15. 5 points
    Don't be a wanker and ask for photos. Third world countries have better internet than me.
  16. 5 points
    I did check if I could find replacement used ones in better quality and wasnt happy with what sellers were offering, so we decided to make a couple of days out of it and combined skills to refurb what we have. Basically: - No foam/sponge left in originals, no softness in the horsehair molded bases. Cloth itself in pretty good condition. - Forced stripes of cotton wadding inside "piping" on the back piece - Kept the horse hair mold but added middle strips of 35-160U High Density foam and side bolsters of 28-170U Medium density foam - Hand washed rear cloth, did not remove from seat as it was riveted to the frame (and no need). - Machine washed base - Wife sewed in "Interface" material into the base stips to create new "loops" to hold the side-centre-side metal bars in place (original channels disintegrated - Initially used OEM like Bull Ring pliers to reattached metal bars etc but found that large cable ties work a lot better. Used lots of them (13per base, 5 on each side and 3 in the middle). Very happy with result, firm but soft, smells great too thanks to the washing and cloth shampoo!
  17. 5 points
    To be fair, not sure the 18โ€ wheels look right. A nice set of staggered 17โ€ style 5โ€™s would add to the look!
  18. 5 points
    Became a trim level for utes.
  19. 5 points
    Finished my first ever paint job on my front bumper - pretty chuffed with the result ๐Ÿ˜Ž
  20. 5 points
    Super foggy morning cleared to a beautiful day for a scenic flight over Auckland. Another 1.3hrs in the logbook.
  21. 5 points
    Parked up behind this sparkling beast yesterday. So sparkly...well done @Jun
  22. 5 points
    Well, the time has come. I'm keeping the BMW for the foreseeable future, so the only logical next step was to drop some dead weight, and pull out the subs. The decision to keep the BMW wasn't one I took lightly, but I'm not sad or disappointed to be stuck with it. I actually quite like the car. There are a few things that didn't suit me about the car though, and having a bunch of useless weight sitting over the rear axle is one of those things. The boot install looked nice, but it really killed my enjoyment of the car. It sounded bad, and had been hastily thrown into the car. The main issue was that the capacitor on the driver's side wasn't actually secured by anything and was just sitting on top of the battery. This meant that every time I cornered hard (like an M3 should), the damn thing would fall over and go for a scoot along the boot floor, until the power wires restrained it. It was sitting on a block of wood So out it all comes. I'll tell you what, getting the sub box out was a mission. First out comes the floor panel and amp from the spare wheel well. Then the side amp, and capacitor come out. This gives enough room to shoehorn the rest of the trim and the box out of the boot opening. Turns out the box wasn't secured at all and was held in with hopes and dreams. It's a big box, that's for sure. I forgot how big a coupe boot actually is! In goes the carpet from Pick A Part, after a quick vacuum Even though this spare wheel doesn't hold air (buckled and leaks at the bead), I still put it in the boot as it helps to hold the carpet up, and also helps with weight balance. I need to find another wheel at some point. The wheel and tire weigh about the same as the amp that was in there, it was a beast. The previous owner butchered all the standard wiring for the speakers, so unless I want to run a whole lot of new wiring, I'm stuck with running the speaker amp. Thankfully I actually like this one as it looks cool, and doesn't take up too much space. Even the wiring going to this is a mess though. Yes, that is the pair of RCA connectors (usually used as one pair for front, and one pair for rear), split out to fill all four channels, front and rear. I'll rejig the RCA cables that went to the sub amp, and use them for the rear speakers so fronts and rears are split properly. The final result isn't perfect. The carpet needs some fettling to tidy it up, and the battery is the wrong size so the plastic cover on it doesn't quite fit properly, but otherwise, it's now a fully functional boot. Driving the car to work yesterday and the lack of weight is noticeable. It's not major, but it doesn't feel like you're dragging the backside around anymore. I would've pulled a good 20-30kg out. The next steps for the car are in motion. I have a set of BC Gold adjustable coilovers to go in, and a nice Purple Tag E46 steering rack to replace the horrible 3.0 M3 rack, which is the dumpster fire of steering racks. I'll also be rebuilding the vanos, since I already have the parts to do it, just need the time.
  23. 5 points
    BEFORE YOU READ ON: After doing the initial installation of the retrofit the kit I was faced with PDC sound and steering wheel track select issues. No amount of coding would fix it, and Bimmer Retrofit suggested a firmware update to the FeNBT box to address it. The problem may have arisen from the fact that my car has a ZGW2-High from factory, and the FeNBT is not 100% compatible with it. Another strange issue was that the NBT would not save my unit settings, so every time the car booted up it would reset to default, which in my car's case is UK MPG etc. So I did install version two today: * Removed the FeNBT retrofit adapter * Updated SWFL (both) and BTLD of the ZGW2-High with 8SK software. For my ZGW2-High they were btld_000010f5-003_004_090, SWFL_0000092b-005_018_00, SWFL000010f6-003_004_160. The ZGW now shows up as ZGW2 in esys, where before it was just ZGW (despite being a ZGW2-High) * Tapped the CAN2 high and low at the CAS * ZBE3 and Touch ECU are also tapped into CAN2 * Restored original PDC button wiring The retrofit works 100%. Initially the NBT would not display my top view or PDC, but the sounds worked. I resolved this by doing a fresh FA code with my original FA but with the Zeitkriterium updated to 0712. The retrofit is 100% feature complete and I did not have to do any module swaps or modifications other than flashing the ZGW2 with 8SK software. Also, the car's original wiring is 100% intact, except for 2 splice connectors ๐Ÿ™‚ FeNBT adapter removed PDC TSRVC original button wiring restored and working PDC TSRVC working 100% Steering wheel list wheel functionality restored The information above is still relevant as a guide if the ZGW2 route is not viable in your case. Steps like the removal of the COMBOX and USB cable routing as well as the disassembly steps are also still required, even with the 8SK method. Also, the standard disclaimer applies. The information below is based on my experience and I give no guarantee that the information is applicable or relevant to any other car configuration. Here we are folks. It's been a wee wait while the kit was assembled but it arrived and was installed in an afternoon (no jokes). It is a challenging retrofit if you have no experience with these things. At the very least you need to be able to read wiring diagrams and also have either the knowledge required to disassemble the interior of your car or know how to sear and read the info on TIS. Others have covered more technical details of the install. My writeup will be step-by-step of what I did. Before starting removed the footwell side carpets, centre console side plastic trim, and trim roof in driver's footwell. Info on how to do this can be found on TIS. This is the kit. It includes MOST cable, USB cable, Adapter, Touch Module, 2x wiring sets for touch and controller, harness, touch controller, APIX cable, Bluetooth Antenna, HU_NBT. Roof down and rear head rests out. These are a royal PITA to remove. I find that grabbing on to them and moving side to side is the easiest way to get them out. Front seats forward as far as they will go. Rear bench out. Again, PITA to get out. Grabbing the outer edges and pulling up is the easiest way to get it out. It takes some effort, but eventually it will budge. Rear backrest is held in place by two bolts, and once removed can be tilted forward. No need to remove the seatbelts. You have more than enough access to the COMBOX. Note the brace. This has to be removed. Said brace removed. Little bolt is example of one of the 4 bolts securing the COMBOX to its frame. COMBOX removed. COMBOX wiring and MOST disconnected. The little blue tab needs to be pushed out in order for the most cables to be removed. COMBOX MOST terminated. At this stage we move to the front. Recline the front seats as far as they can, and move them all they way back. Locate the ZGW underneath the driver's side dashboard. Remove the MOST connecter, and disassemble it in the same manner as the COMBOX MOST. ZGW MOST terminated. Old CID removed. Next remove the backing plate. Basic disassembly done. This is what a 6-series console looks like when it's stripped out like a nuclear winter ๐Ÿ˜„ Bind up the old CID Apix and power connectors and secure behind the dashboard. Connect MOST cable supplied with the retrofit kit to the ZGW. Feed MOST through sidewall into cavity behind the HU. Connect MOST to the FeNBT adapter. Remove beige connecter from USB port in armrest storage. Feed new USB cable underneath the console carrier from HU to armrest storage. New USB cable connected. New bluetooth antenna in a neat little wedge between the HU and air vents. NBT hooked up and ready to be tested for the first time. At this stage the old idrive controller (ZBE2) is still connected. It works! USB connection in armrest works. Touch controller (ZBE3) and Touch ECU connected. This was a more technical step as it requires you to wire the ZBE3 and ECU to the CAN-H, CAN-L, Battery and Ground cables. Not that big a deal. I used splice connectors for a super clean install. Touch works. I'm still not convinced about the usefulness of touch input since we drive on the right side of the road, and writing with the left hand is average at best. The trim surround of the ZBE3 has to be removed since the surround from the ZBE2 stays in the centre console, and fits perfectly around the ZBE3. This can be done without destroying the surround. All you need is a small flat head screw driver and some patience. ZBE3 in place and fits perfectly. The instructions call for the PDC Camera buttons to be connected to the FeNBT adapter. Three wires in a 4-pin connector is all it takes. I actually replaced this blue one with a new one which I purchased from BMW, along with new crimp connectors. First drive outside with the roof down. The screen is excellent (remember that this is one I ordered from China...not one that came with the kit). And there you have it. I took the photo of the complete kit on 23 April 2019 at 2:58 PM and the install was done by 5:30pm. As smoothly as the install went, it is not without challenges. Currently my PDC sounds and steering wheel track buttons do not work. Bimmer Retrofit are working with me to resolve the problem. I also cannot connect to the NBT though OBD despite having ZGH High installed. I will update the ZGW tomorrow to see if that solves the problem, or else connect directly to the NBT using an RJ45 cable. Once I can connect to it I can complete the coding and get my cameras back ๐Ÿ™‚ To help troubleshoot any potential wiring issues I removed all the unused wires from the harness (more than half of them, in fact). I also initially cut the connector from the 4-pin connected to the PDC button, but have since re-pinned it to a new connector, just in case it ever needs to be reconnected. Overall I am very happy with the kit and the support from Bimmer Retrofit. Beyond the headlights there is no way to tell that my car is Pre-LCI, and even then very few of the LCI models (even those with EVO) have the glass screens. Happy to answer any questions ๐Ÿ™‚
  24. 5 points
    What a change from their marketing of only a few years back!
  25. 5 points
    That Russian guy would sort that out no problem!
  26. 5 points
    Bit off an update. After 3 weeks. Total replacement with a brand new car with all the extras I had paid for... plus upgraded to the Elite Black roof model. I've gone for Lagoon Blue this time. I couldn't go with the Red again.
  27. 5 points
    26 April 2019. 173xxxkms 1. Active Steering Rack: replaced.Jon at Auto38 had done the diagnosis and analysis. My old rack was clunking. Jon had pulled back the rack boots and found rusty grease, and significant wear in the rack teeth. Sadly wear is not covered by my Autosure MBA. So we were onto repair options. Sounds easy, right? Just get another good rack, and swap it in. The Active Steering Rack is a big-ticket item, with a bunch of sensors all over it. And it's a bit of a sh*t to fit, by all accounts. Being so large, subframe comes down a long way. A new one from BMW is not an option for me. That would ruin my Christmas. So good used options were sought on my behalf. Jon & Keren sourced a suitable rack, Jon pulled the old rack and swapped over all of my existing electronics to the new (used) rack, and installed/initialised/calibrated in the car. An alignment to top it off. [โ€œnice rack!โ€ Said nobody last week in a spectacular Newtown workshop. My well-worn rack, along with the ancillaries from the new (used) rack.] It's great to have the beast back, and it's steering nicely. Smoother than before. And after a couple of weeks away from the 545i (it was Easter and ANZAC, and I wasn't in a hurry), I'm reminded of why I like this car so much. It's very talented, and does it all. As ever, I'm very pleased with Auto38's service and professionalism. I'm sure you will be too, if you take your car there.
  28. 5 points
    Wow, that is a nice set-up. Some cool toys on the walls as well. I would be scared of making it dirty or untidy though. A couple of pics of the cakes I got for my recent birthday...
  29. 4 points
    Ah yes, that time again. It's not my M3 if it doesn't involve rebuilding the Vanos at some point. If anyone has forgotten, I have previously rebuilt the Vanos unit on my old M3, and what a nightmare that was. Lesson learned, don't use cheap tools. Being that this car has 300,000KM on the clock, and the previous owner has no history of the Vanos ever being rebuilt, I felt it was prudent to do it. This made even more sense, since when I first got the car I ordered a full Beisan rebuild kit, as the Vanos was completely dead (turned out it was just a sensor issue), so had a kit sitting around. The previous owner had the Vanos off the head back when they had the head work done, but when I asked, he confirmed that it was not rebuilt at the same time (argh, the hardest part is taking it on and off, why not do it then?!). This gave me some hope that maybe it wouldn't fight me like the last one did.... or on the flip side, there was a chance the previous owner had been kind enough to round off the bolts or something on reassembly. Anyway, with a nice clear day off work, I got stuck in. I won't do much step by step work in this post, as it's covered in my previous rebuild, and also on Beisans website. One reason I had been putting the job off a little bit longer was that the valve cover wasn't leaking, and I really didn't want to pull it off again in case it starts to leak. Oh well, Here goes. Argh, bugger, so much for not leaking. This little bastard never seems to want to seal. It's a new gasket, with a new rubber washer... and it's still leaking. The inside of this engine is bloody amazing for 300,000KM. Its obviously been looked after and well serviced. The previous M3, with 100,000KM less, was almost black on the inside. This is lovely and golden brown. Before you can do anything else you must get the engine up at TDC. This involves having the No.1 cam lobes for intake and exhaust pointing up and towards each other and making sure the crank pulley mark is lined up. I had a hell of a time last time, as the Beisan instructions are incorrect, and the timing mark is hard to find, tucked down behind the crank pulley. Strangely, on this engine there seems to be a critical change. Not only does it have the marks behind the pulley, but it finally also has it stamped into the front of the pulley! Not sure if this was a South African Market difference or just a difference between 1994 and 1995 engines. I still had to use my old iPhone to see it, but it's better than having to try and see it behind the pulley. As expected this little piston nut gave me some anxiety. To undo it, you use a 7mm spanner on the nut and a 4mm 6 sided socket on a ratchet to hold the shaft still. The 4mm hex is well known for just shearing off, and then you're having a bad day. Thankfully although it was tight, mine came off just fine. One part I have been asked about was to give more details on the removal of the oil pump driver when removing the Vanos unit. This is a little disk that sits on the back of the unit. It's circled here My previous unit was so sludged up that the driver disk was stuck to the unit, but in this case it was nice and free. The risk here is that if dropped, it takes a swift one way trip to the bottom of the sump. Turns out, it's easy to keep it in place. Use one hand to hold and pull the Vanos forward, and the other to hold the disk. There is plenty of space around it. The Vanos has been leaking externally leaving a mess down the front of the engine And on the underside of the unit Of course the unit got scrubbed clean, and the engine was given a quick scrub and clean. Removing the cylinder cover on the back of the Vanos unit gave me my first surprise. This is meant to have a seal pressed into it. The seal was sitting on the cylinder, having fallen out of the cover. It was well perished and crumbled when you so much as looked at it Organised chaos Part of the rebuild was to clean and test the solenoids again. I had previously done this when I redid the seals on the solenoids, but I wanted to be more thorough this time around. I got sick of having to try and jam the wires from the battery connector into the solenoid connectors, so quickly rigged up a tester using bits from the garage. Now all I have to do is plug the solenoid into the connector, plug in the 9v battery, and hit the button. Easy. I can use the same tester on injectors too, as long as they use the JPT connector. With the more thorough cleaning and testing the solenoids when from a nice click, to a firm crack every time they were actuated. I don't think it'll make a difference, but at least now I know they are working as good as they can. I also resoldered the solder points on the solenoids, as they were looking a bit old. I also chose to bridge the solder points. I don't know why BMW chose to run it through that little circuit board instead of direct (it literally goes into the outer solder point, across a track on the circuit board, and out to the solenoid via the inner solder points), but this is a common mod to ensure reliability. With the Vanos unit rebuilt, It was time to do the rattle fix on the splined shaft This one wasn't anywhere near as bad as the old M3s one, but good to take any play out of it. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly. So, what's the story now? Well, the seals take a few hundred KM to bed in properly, but already the car has perked up down low and has noticeably more punch off the line. Up top is about the same, but it's quicker to get there. It's proper rapid. The idle issue has not changed. This is really disappointing; I was hoping it would be the solution to everyone that is having the same idle issue, but sadly not. Back to the drawing board on that issue. Since the WOF runs out at the start of next month I have decided to pull the car off the road shortly. I have a set of BC Gold coilovers and a purple tag steering rack to go in, along with some other bits coming from the States (thermostat, reinforcement plates etc). Once I get back from holiday, I'll book it in for a Cert, and see what happens there.
  30. 4 points
    Finally having to let this beauty go in order to make room in my garage. 125km NZ new ACS mag wheels are not for sale Comes on 15" original basket weaves Was a doctors car & have the service folder. Always garaged. Always used mats on mats. Has the upgraded water pump, metal impeller GMB top quality. Very tidy roughly 9.8 out of 10. Not sure if there are any tidy low km examples of this model around quite as good as this. The interior is leather in indigo, very dark almost black, has armrests. The roof lining is excellent. Sunroof windows & other electrics work as the day it was produced. Big case lsd from factory Air con needs re-gassed 7k
  31. 4 points
    Just popped back up on the Tard.. nice project, cool theme. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/auction-2046336605.htm Still a lot of work to finish it off but will be O for Orsome when done.
  32. 4 points
    And all thatโ€™s left of the red M5 we had lives in 6FTNDR M5 Dif, mirrors, wheels and interior
  33. 4 points
    Finished painting the new to me shed floor, my excellent missus chucked some nice LED light tubes in the roof and I'm pretty happy. I even let the 316 have a look inside before I bring the race car home
  34. 4 points
    well after completing the last round of the BMW race series I must say I'm pleased with the results. the splitter worked a treat if only for 2 laps. It parted company from the car on the 3rd lap and part of it ended up in/on someone else's car. 1.16.3 around Hampton Downs that's a PB for me and a guide line. I'm going to make a better front splitter.
  35. 4 points
    Before I settled on the M140i I test drove the i30 with that same drive train. Was plenty of fun - almost as good as a Golf GTI and lots cheaper. I think if the i30N was available with that same 7-speed DCT gearbox, I'd have bought it. My days of wanting to drive manuals in Auckland traffic are over.
  36. 4 points
    In my humble opinion, based on purchasing one of these beasts in the last year; cars at this point possibly need some pro-active maintenance. Clutches can rear their ugly head, hoses need replacing, thermostats can deteriorate, and the suspension components such as control arms, bushings, etc need replacing. Just also based on meeting people here in the US who really clock up intergalactic mileage with their cars, as long as you spend the money - these things are sturdy! A mate of mine has a 150,000 mile example in Silverstone. He has done all the pro-active maintenance work on his car through a local independent - and it never misses a beat as a daily driver. I just hope that the current owner of this car has had some big- tickets items done.. otherwise there could be some bills around the corner. Worth spending though- these cars rock!
  37. 4 points
    It looks like what Batman would drive, if he was in middle management...
  38. 4 points
    i hope hes not your mechanic any more. stick with the correct castrol oil for the S54 engine.
  39. 4 points
    is the future of RWD vs FWD discussion the new E46M3 SMG vs manual discussion?
  40. 4 points
    Installed a GROM unit as per @BozzaFC recommendation. It is a bit pricey for what it is but it does it's job very effectively. I got this one: https://gromaudio.com/store/bt3_adapters/bmw-mini-98-05-bluetooth-adapter-car-kit-behind-the-radio-connector.html with the 3.5mm and USB charger cable. I'm loving being able to run spotify via bluetooth and still use the steering controls to skip tracks. Bit of ghetto install using the posi things....should probably solder them eventually. NB: you gotta disconnect the CD stacker at the stacker also.. No more tape adapter for me ๐Ÿ™‚ Is it even an E39 if your pixels ARE working?? ๐Ÿ˜‰
  41. 4 points
    Well, you see, I have a number of E30s so I am familiar with the overall concept. I also have a high-level of 3D perception and visualisation, so from the various photos showing the details I can put it all together in my head.
  42. 4 points
    At the same time as doing the heater core, I thought I might as well do an electric sunroof conversion. I ended up cocking this up quite substantially. I drilled through the holes in not quite the right places, so the motor would only be held in with 2 bolts. I'll be doing this properly later on, but for now you can review my cock ups. So you need the electric motor mount. These are riveted into the copper bracket that houses the wires. I just drilled out the rivet heads. Electric on left, manual on right. I found pretty quickly that the electric motor needs a bit more space, so cut a section out of the copper to match. Now in theory, you are supposed to be able to just bolt the black mount back onto the copper plate, and then just screw in the motor. For whatever reason, this didn't quite work for me. But I thought I had done rather well considering I had the front of the touring headlining hanging down so far during all the work. Ended up just dropping the headlining and removing it. It now lives on my back wall I continued to struggle with this. Ended up rounding out the electric motor gears as I didn't disengage them properly when manually winding it to test the sunroof opened and closed. This is the unit mostly apart And of course some classic sunroof rust. After this I just left the sunroof in place, and there is nothing connected to move it currently. Will come back to this hopefully later this year.
  43. 4 points
    Gosh, it's been 2 years since I last updated this, so there will be a few updates coming in. Since no one ever chimed in to my previous post, I ended up doing a lot of my own guesswork and have made some assumptions since, which will come through in updates over the rest of the year.I finished swapping in the 2nd engine, and vanos was definitely not kicking in properly, as I felt I had lost low down torque, and when holding the accelerator steady, I could feel the car surging just while cruising at 50km/hTo celebrate the car being back together, I put some weaves on and took some photos.
  44. 4 points
    Most of it is accurate, but you know what they say about believing what you read on the internet.. Not really related to cabin and boot space, but emissions reductions and manufacturing costs. Latest industry predictions are that a number of major manufacturers will either fold or have to merge due to the level of costs and resources required to meet the next round of emissions targets. The industry is increasingly being driven by government legislation rather than customer demands unfortunately. Take one for a drive, and without any prejudice, see if you can tell which end is providing the grunt.
  45. 4 points
    Not that I disagree, but I wouldn't be surprised if those who don't have the personal responsibility or common sense to take out insurance, would meet the criteria of third party, even if they were forced to, and were found at fault in a crash. Most of these types likely Don't have a WOF Might have a WOF but car is in an unroad worthy state Breaching license conditions Drug/alcohol impaired. All reason to be denied cover. We have such a culture in this country now that personal responsibility is out the window and its easier to blame someones else. Couple that with a piss weak justice system and resentment/jealousy for success. If the wannabe gangster takes out your late model six figure Euro in his unwarranted 'ceffy', whats it to him... Your insurance will pick up the tab, easy.
  46. 4 points
    All of it. Please don't think 'I'm not breaking new ground here, it's been done before'... Your style is informative and entertaining; leave nothing out.
  47. 4 points
    Its been a while, for two main reasons, but I'm still here, and for now, so is the BMW. The first reason has been that despite putting some KM on the BMW, it's been pretty reliable and solid. I even ticked over the magical 300,000KM mark the other week. The other reason is that a while back I was offered a car that I basically only have one chance to own in my life. There is a very long story around how I still don't have that car, but basically I have been trying to sell the BMW to get funds and space to buy the other car, but without success. I have had a stupid amount of stupid people wasting my time, which infuriates me, but still no one has fronted up with the cash. This leaves me in a limbo of sorts. I'm reluctant to give up on this other car and keep the BMW, as I likely won't get another chance for one again, but I also can't keep dropping the price and losing my arse just to push a sale quickly. So since I'm still stuck with the car, I'm also limited on spending money on it, or working on it. There are a few things that I will do to the car IF I keep it, but at this point I still don't know what's happening. In the meantime I have picked up a few things from Pick A Part. They had a coupe with a complete boot carpet, which I picked up so at some point I can rip out the boot install and go back to having a functional boot. I also grabbed a few cosmetic bits that were a bit shabby on my car. All cheap bits that aren't easy to get. One of the most important cosmetic bits I got was a new headlight switch. I hated seeing mine every time I drove the car because it was badly worn/scratched/scuffed. It also didn't light up like it should. You can see how horrible the legend around the dial looks, but even the I/O on the vent above is badly worn. These are super easy to remove, with only one screw on the underside of the dash surround, going up into the switch housing. Remove that, and gently pull the switch forward (I hold it by the dial). Its clipped into place in the top of the vent, but it'll come free with some wiggling. The wiring is fairly short for the foglight switch, so take care not to pull too hard or you can break that switch. The headlight switch wiring connector has a collar that twists around and the plug will come out. The replacement I sourced has a broken switch for the headlights, so when you turn the dial it doesn't click like it should. That's OK, my current one works fine, so I will swap them over. First pull the dial off. It's a press fit There are two things to note when that is removed. First, the light pipe in the back, at about 10-12 o'clock position. This is how the bulb feeds light to the notch on the dial, so it lights up. The other is the large plastic nut. I used a set of large needle nose pliers to turn this and remove it. Once removed, the whole switch will come away from the fascia. This is a really good time to replace the bulb, which is inevitably blown. This can be done with the switch still fitted to the fascia, but it's easier to push the bulb out the front, than to pull it out the back. The bulb is in a large plastic holder. If you push on the top of it, it will push out of the back of the switch The bulb is a small "grain of wheat" 286 bulb. Now, I believe the original BMW bulb was 0.3W and about $10 a piece! Madness. In the past I have chosen to use the much brighter 1.2W bulbs readily available on eBay. They do obviously run hotter, but other than a shorter lifespan, there doesn't seem to be any issue running them, but do so at your own peril. I went this route again this time. Now it's time to strip the good switch from the old fascia. With a new bulb fitted, install the tube into the good switch. The end of the tube is keyed to only go in one way, but be careful that the bulb passes clearly through. If the bulb isn't seated correctly, you can smash the bulb inside the light switch.... I found out the hard way. Now install the good switch on the good fascia, reinstall the nut and dial. Plug it into the car (without installing it) and test that everything works as it should. It should light up with the key on. If all is well, reinstall it into the dash and fit the screw. So much better! I couldn't stop there. I had the bulbs out, and I knew one other thing wasn't lighting up in the car; the climate controls. This is another thing I had to fix in the first M3, as that also had neither the headlight switch or climate controls light up when I got it. This is also an easy fix. First pull all four dials off. They are a friction fit. Next remove the two screws (one under the fan speed dial and the other under the vent control dial). Now the fascia can be gently pried forward until it pops off The back of the fascia is pretty cool. It has a series of light pipes to distribute the light from the single little bulb, to all of the areas around the dials that need to light up. The buttons (recirc, AC, demist) are all lit with little LEDs on the back plate. The little bulb lives dead center near the top of the unit. Gently pull it forward and it will come out of its holder. There is some discolouration around mine, and it did have a bigger 1.4W bulb fitted by the previous owner, but no distortion of the plastic or anything. Pop a new bulb in and turn the lights on. Now clip the fascia back on, insert the two screws, refit the four dials and you're done. Bling bling. And with all the other light up stuff The last thing that didn't light up was the ashtray. Turns out the whole bulb holder is missing, but not to fret, I picked up a replacement at Pick A Part today also. A non-smoker package pocket to replace the ashtray. Fixes the light not working, and also gives me somewhere to put my phone. Win. Great success. Now I can see things in the dark. Hopefully soon I will know what's happening with the car. Either it'll go to a new owner, or I will be ripping the boot install out.
  48. 4 points
    Some cleaning update pics while I try track down some products.
  49. 4 points
    I wonder if you do go and have a look if you'll drive up the driveway, see the car sitting there all nice and clean and then the owner will open the garage and go "ta-da!" and the second one is sitting there for you. Two 3.0 M3's for $38k seems about right.
  50. 3 points
    Because you asked so nicely just for you
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