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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    Hi guys, I brought the Z3M to keep my 1M company having recently sold my Audi’s, RR ur quattro and B5 RS4... I owned an older version of the Z3M in Blue before I brought the quattro. Looking forward to another Z3M ...
  2. 10 points
    New Year. New Update! After getting the car back home it was time to start fresh and sort out what needed to be done. First off i knew that the sump had a pinhole leak in it that needed to be sorted so the front end, suspension, subframe and cooling system was stripped back again to remove that to be re-welded, while i was at it i replaced the waterpump that was also leaking. A new clutch line was also routed up and over the gearbox, to keep it away from the headers, and the accelerator cable shortened and finished up with all the correct clips and grommets. After a couple of months everything was bolted back up and the car was taken to Sam Smith, of Smith Industries, to get a couple things tided up and fabricated, this included a slight change to the rear exhaust tips, a cold air box, a sump bash plate, heat shielding around the headers and a battery hold down in the boot. His work is amazing and id definitely recommend anyone who needs some fabrication done of any kind, for a good deal, to contact him. Once the car was back home it was time to tidy up the wiring side of things, as this had been worked on by a couple of others over the last few years. Local guru Nigel from Ignition Autosport was enlisted to undertake this job. While this was being done, the cooling system and necessary sensors were also completed and fluids checked before it was fired back up and ready for its first drive under its own power! A crack in the power steering reservoir was discovered, so a new one was ordered before this could happen. Coolant return hose and washer fluid hose from the rear bottle are neatly hidden away inside the front guard. A few parts were starting to accumulate over time, like the fresh bumper trims, thanks to fellow touring owner Dylan HJ, some small goodies from overseas and another set of perfect smileys from a local guy who didn't know the value of them, also thanks to Andy, Lucan, Richard (e46v12), Mike from EuroTurbo for the help over the last 9 Months sourcing small things. With things not going smoothly at times, photos like this just remind me how far things have come, and how it will all be worth it! First drive under its own power! IMG_4022.mp4 IMG_4198.mp4 IMG_4201.mp4 With the car running and no issues so far, panel and paint was on the list to get ticked off. So a few long weekends were spent striping it all and documenting, labelling etc so i knew how to put it all back together! DJI_0007.mov Watch this Space....
  3. 9 points
    To all the doubterz and ones who dont have faith in the Bimmer fellow brotherhood....yous owe me a Fizzy Bubblech...😎
  4. 7 points
    Impulsive buy, my 1M was intended to only be my Sunday drive but tempted by the Z3M the 1M has now become my daily so I now get best of both cars ...πŸ‘πŸΌ
  5. 6 points
    So after selling the e91 and failing dismally at owning something sensible - common sense prevailed and we flicked the Mazda 6 getting something smaller/newer for Mrs SiW something that would also serve as our commuter car; and leave me a few grand to get something a bit more "me" that I can have a few fun and games with. Come on down a wee NZ new e46 compact that will give me the chance to do a little tinkering (but not a lot), whilst not being completely boring to drive over the hill to Martinborough every month or so. It isn't a minter - but is something I'm confident having a go with doing a few things to (namely some interior trim and stereo updates). I'll get some nicer wheels for it at some stage. But that aside - I'll be refreshing the cooling system and doing something about the (slightly) tired steering. I'll also be getting a dent dude (or dudette) to wave their wand over the roof where someone has been practising their tap dancing. It drives well (for a 200km car), and goes around corners pretty well - but it can of course be better πŸ˜†
  6. 5 points
    The cost of using runflats is acrtually much greater to BMW, not a cost saving. The cost of a spare tyre is more than outweighed by the added development costs to have to design and manufacture a suspension system to handle both types of tyres, plus all cars with run-flats MUST have a pressure monitoring system otherwise you will not know you have a flat until the tyre disintegrates many miles later (as per previous post - how you know when you have a puncture). Another key factor is the weight reduction in not having to carry a spare and have somewhere to put it - this then helps with the fuel consumption and emissions reductions needed. I may have mentioned this before on another run-flat discussion - in my driving lifetime I have had two tyres get an instant loss of pressure due to a massive puncture on the motorwat - the first normal tyre, the second a run-flat. With the normal tyre the first I knew was when the rear end suddenly pulled massively to the left - I tired to correct / catch it, but ended up spinning into the concrete central divider at around 70mph. With the run-flat I got the warning light on the dashboard, followed by a slight pull to the left, no spin, no massive accident. When I got home and checked the tyre it had a three inch gash from hitting some sharp debris on the road - no wonder it went down so quick. I know which I prefer to drive myself and my family around on. As for not doing long drives on run-flats, I regularly do Auckland to Naper via Taupo and the Napier - Taupo road. On one Friday night trip I managed to hit a pot-hole in the road at speed, just past the cafe where it starts to get twisty. Massive bang and it felt like the strut had punched up through the tower! Slowed right down, and it still felt ok, sped back up to 80km/h for rest of journey. Checked damage in the morning and there was a massive bulge in the sidewall, and when I went to the tyre shop they found a massive buckle in the rim as well, fitted a replacement there and then no waiting. Pretty sure a non-run flat 40 profile tyre on a 19" rim would not have survived that impact and again would have been another blow-out situation.
  7. 5 points
  8. 4 points
    We dont really use it much so might just see if anyone needs a cheap runaround car. Spent a lot of time to tidy it up and it is in pretty good condition. The engine is healthy as (19x,xxxkms) and rev's up easily. its a 1998, genuine msport, sunroof, black interior all re-done, automatic, e46 centre armrest fitted, fake alpina badges all round Not sure what its worth but would be happy with 2k or close to it. Here is a link to the thread I made when I got it.
  9. 4 points
    Ugh, no matter how cheap it is, a single cam 318i auto..... ugh. No one should hate themselves that much.
  10. 4 points
    We drove the M5 up a few days ago, clocked about 400kms now. So far it has been great, aside from getting used to the SMG on Wellington hills when I have to stop and go again. I have already done 3 things on it already. the circle dance to remove the diff binding, gladly it seems to have been fixed by the 6th counter clockwise circle. reset SMG, the SMG is ok but it slightly lags every so slightly from other M5 I have driven. Or possibly I only driven the other M5 in better conditions, only a few times on slow stop and go situations. So far after the reset it is better, but I would imagine our M5 may still have original clutch and pump only has done 53k kms when we got it. SMG is probably the big item to be planned for if it does get significantly worse, but yesterdays driving after the reset we are pretty happy with it. wheel alignment, it drove pretty ok from down south. However once in Wellington I put in the right tire pressure and was more critical about it. I had some special deal with Tony's for my old cars so I used one of my alignment for the M5. Much much better with wheels realigned, not that it was bad before, actually it was the best M5 I have driven in terms of steering feel. It certainly feels less worn down and straight than the other M5 I have test driven. The car also came with almost new S001 tires, new front disc and pads, still pretty think rear disk and pads. So I guess those items won't be needed to look after for the near term. My first impressions M5 is definitely a lot more comfortable on long drives than I thought. It is pretty smooth and comfortable despite being in low profile tires. Definitely not a city car, or hilly city car. SMG on stop and go traffic hills or busy roundabouts can be weird and nerve racking at times. However I had expected it to be like this, in Wellington on the streets I drive on none rush hour it is still definitely a nice car to drive. Love the twisty roads of Wellington on the M5. Rear passenger is a lot bigger than I expected, comfy and my daughter loves the seat warmers Car is smaller and not as wide as I expected it to be, which is great. I have seen normal E60, driven an M5 but it is only clocking more than 100kms I get to understand how big it is. Easier to drive on Wellington narrow streets and easier to clean. Although it is not M5 related, now I understand why people are getting crazy over Skylines. I had already an affinity on Skylines even before it become Godzilla status, C110 and R30 etc was known to be when I was younger. Definitely the M5 is better in almost every department (not Reliability or city driving), the R34 in almost stock form is not far behind. No wonder these R32-34 Skylines are now appreciating in value. I can say that with a small amount of mods it would be on par with the M5. These Skylines are not a bargain anymore today, prices have gone 2-3 times from a decade ago. The Skyline experience is much more raw, even it is slower at its almost stock form. That said the V10 howl is truly unique, S85 and RB engines are definitely engines that defined their era. Thank you for all the useful information, it has been valuable. I hope to see you on the roads and/or speak to you personally, feel free to approach us if you see us. If a lady is driving it, it is probably my wife after all it is her car.
  11. 4 points
    What are you talking about? People on the Internet don't have feelings.
  12. 4 points
    First problem is going to VTNZ and having their failed, unreasonable and unrealistic mechanics inspect it. I would perhaps steam clean or brake clean the oil leaks on it. Maybe run some thicker oil (when does it smoke, under load, on over run, after sitting idle for a few minutes?). Maybe trade in on an E46 330i, E39 or E60 530i, depending what you require of a car. Its a bugger BMW have gone from some of the strongest engines from the 70s-80s and into the 1990s to the fragile crap they've put out over the past 15-20 years M Cars included.
  13. 4 points
    Ok finally got a deal. We went for an older 2005 car but lower milage 55k from a dealer, we where able to also get 2 years MBI. We actually chose that particular car for the all chalk white interior, something we just recently wanted as a different thing from our other old cars. Going to fly down and drive it up after Christmas, hopefully an enjoyable and safe little road trip. Any M5 or BMW specific tips for me to check/know? I have my own generic 2nd hand car checklist, but appreciate specific thinks like: M5 no dip stick, but can check reading on computer. Also you can force it to refresh the data as long as engine is warm Avoid stepping the gas while its cold, not a M5 specific but more important if its a S85 engine SMG doesn't excessively lurch, etc. I have driven 1 M5 so I have a baseline to go
  14. 4 points
    Yeah I'm doing that trip 3 times a fortnight atm on average. Roads getting a bit average in places but better in others. Be better once the Edendale bypass is finished. I'm going Christmas Day so not expecting too much traffic, should be a nice cruise. Currently sitting at the beach, so far the needle has moved about 1mm either side of halfway so I'd say she's better now. Alternator is charging at 13.8v which is just on the bottom end of the service manuals limits. And I think I've found the power drain causing the flat batteries too 😁. Think that might be enough for one day though, time for a beer in the sun before heading home.
  15. 4 points
  16. 3 points
    So here is an update with some snapshots. The last of my parts should be arriving in the next day or 2 and i cant wait. Notice the wear on the lower cover from the chain, i count my lucky stars that wasnt any worse than it is. Even ordered the wrong water pump, but that was just peventative maintenance and can wait a little longer to be replaced. So far i have replaced the oil seperator, pcv tube, ccv and all associated intake gaskets, valley pan gasket re sealed and a new oil pump chain. The amount of guide pieces i have pulled out of every orrifice of this engine is just crazy, its as if a grenade went off in there, the alloy filings are another pain in the butt although the filter captured most of it thankfully. At least it feels like im on the home stretch now with every surface and orifice cleaned up and ready to accept the new parts.
  17. 3 points
    Little Christmas present Happy New Year!
  18. 3 points
    So the 6-er has been an...interesting car so far. This is the tale of my recent rear brake change... The rear brakes were getting on, with the little orange car showing up every time I start the car. Now, I have driven top-shelf German cars for the longest time and know full well the maintenance cost associated with them, but BMW New Zealand is taking this piss when it comes to part prices. Rear brake pads and a sensor for almost $500, I think not...thank you very much. With the F12 not being all that popular in NZ none of the spares places have any brake pads for them, nor for the F10 it would seem, so I went the eBay route (which I have done plenty of times before). I bought these: EBAY LINK. $250 for front and rear pads...sweet. Then I get a letter from Auckland Transport in the mailbox. "Dear so and so, your next WOF is on us!"...yep, the WOF that was done on my car when I purchased it was done by one of the now-suspended inspectors, and I need to get it re-checked before the end of January 2019. No worries, brake pads are on their way so once that's sorted the car will be good as gold. Shipment "with" pads arrive from the UK...tracking status updated to "shortage" which means that the pads were on the manifest, but not in the cargo. Great, no I have to lodge a claim with eBay. Fine, I'll get a refund, but now my car is screaming "330km to go until the brake light turns red". I consider the BMW route again but decided to reference the HELLA PAGID catalogue for OEM part numbers, and I find them. As luck would have it an Aussie store sells them: LINK for just over a hundy. Order, pay and delivered i 4 days flat. #Winning! Now in the meantime, I had my car's wheel balance and alignment done, after getting the front tyres replaced. This was done by Beaurepairs Takanini. All good, car feels much better afterwards. On Monday I finally get the ISTA+ software working on my Mac (needed to put the electronic park brake into service mode, else you have to disassemble it in order to wind it back for the brake pad job). Ready to rock and roll...let's get the wheels off. Nah, not happening. Bolts are on so tight that my bar won't budge them. Go up to Beaurepairs so they can loosen them...super surprised that they are on so tight. Can't get the one rear locknut off. After trying for 45 minutes they give up...so off to BMW I go. They tell me that the inside shape of locknut is damaged...how? Because Beaurepairs used a rattle gun on the bolts. BMW try for 45 minutes and give up. The bolt is screwed (pun intended) and the lock nut simply slips out when you apply pressure. They recommend getting it drilled out...but the place they use is closed until mid-January. While I was there I picked up 4 new regular wheel bolts to replace the locking ones ($55). On the way home I call Beaurepairs head office and speak to the area manager, who is very apologetic and helpful. She calls me back having found a place that could help me on Friday morning. I call them and explain the situation in detail, nah...beyond their skills. Recommend I go to Pitstop Botany. Call them, and they ask me to bring the car in today (Thursday). Go there this morning and an hour later the bolt is out. They welded a blob onto it in order to get it out, with no damage to the rim ($200). Get home, get the wheels off and replace the pads and sensor. 90 minutes all in. Not a bad effort and floating callipers make it a super easy job. Moral of the story: do not let anyone with a rattle gun near your car if you have lock nuts. -The End-
  19. 3 points
    Yeah there's a few "While I'm there" jobs. I took the opportunity to do full CCV system replace, both intake elbows, valve cover gasket, both heater pipes, all the o-rings on the oil filter housing screw-on cover, dipstick o-rings, and of course intake manifold gasket which was rock hard both times. Both receipts ran me about 300USD from FCPEuro, but not all the parts were Genuine BMW. No "special" tools required from memory, but you will need a torx socket set and I found a set of gasket picks useful for getting the broken ends of the heater pipes out of the head, and I found a mix of 1/4'' drive (access is tight on some of those nuts) with a wobble joint and bigger stuff was needed to remove the nuts on the intake mani. Be prepared to be horrified at the state of the plastic pipes...
  20. 3 points
    Got me some new monsoons for the 316i for $1. Super excited Will hopefully get time to paint the style 32s this weekend and chuck them on. Then drive slowly everywhere
  21. 3 points
    I can't make this stuff up, I really can't. I found out why the Vanos isn't working, and it's not what I was thinking... I have been messing around for the past few days trying to get INPA and DIS to work properly. I can get INPA to read everything but the DME (ECU), but I finally got DIS working today, and its reading the engine DME. This means I can finally read engine codes and see if there is anything obviously wrong. That's a yes then. This was the only code, thankfully. I had wondered about the TPS since the reading from live data in the VNC (Vanos Control unit) in INPA was weird, but the VNC didn't have codes for those sensors, only Vanos related ones (of which it had an old code for something random in German, which wasn't an active code). So what was weird? Well, the Throttle Position Sensor either read as below, with the engine off And didn't change when the throttle was opened, or did this when the engine was running (also note the two bars at the very top not reading anything) That reading looked familiar.... almost like it was reading engine position. I disconnected the plugs, and checked the wiring colours. This was the plug off the TPS And the Intake Cam Position Sensor These two live right next to each other, and have identical plugs. I check the wiring diagram, and sure enough the TPS colours were wrong. It should be Brown, Brown/Black and Red/Yellow And the CPS should be Yellow, Black and Shielded Brown So, what does that mean? Well, the two connectors had indeed been swapped. I swapped them over, connected them as they should be, and checked in INPA again. The TPS now read correctly, and I also noted that the two top bars now also had a reading, so suspect that's linked to the cam sensor. You can also see from the above photo, that the engine finally idles at the correct RPM now too. Obviously the engine thinking it was at WOT, but not moving, was causing the DME to keep the idle up. The result? Its picked up a lot of down low power, almost like the Vanos is now actually doing something. Funny that. Easy way to gain power, much easier than Type-R stickers or a pod filter. The exhaust sounds different too, I suspect this is down to the cam timing being correct now, instead of the inlet cam just sitting in one spot (or maybe even varying depending on throttle position!) With the idle also correct, unfortunately the misfire at idle is more obvious. Hopefully it's either Vanos, or something simple like spark plugs or coils. I'll check them out shortly. I can only presume this switch happened when the previous owner had everything unplugged to replace the head gasket. That was in 2016, so obviously it's been wrong for a while now, but confirms that I was right about the Vanos not working. It's still slower than my old M3, but hopefully rebuilding the Vanos can make that gap closer.
  22. 3 points
    Finally got around to checking the thermostat, it's working fine, so not the cause of the heat issue. So will check water pump and flush the radiator next, to eliminate them. Have also found the IHKA is playing up (apparently a common problem), where I can't turn the heater off on the passenger side, so will need to look at that at some stage too. Tightened the fan belt as well, as that was way too loose. Alternator charging at a steady 13.8-13.9V even with headlights on, less than perfect but should survive for now. However, the battery is still going dead flat overnight. Took it for a run yesterday afternoon, where I stopped and started it a few times while ducking in and out of places, and it started fine. This morning, not even an attempt to turn over. So I've got my spare battery on charge, will throw that in as that battery may not be holding charge. And to top it all off, I can't remove the radio to fit a band expander, seeing as how some muppet has tried to drill the security screws out - not sure if I'll get the radio out without damaging it now 😠😠😠😠 Starting to get frustrating - fix one thing, and another 3 turn up - and all I wanna do right now is a Christmas Day cruise - after that, it can take me the whole year to fix the rest of the niggly things, that won't worry me 😁
  23. 3 points
    I still remember Mike Hosking driving an immaculate example in Imola red / black leather in the early 00's. Stunning car - I'd see it regularly pottering around Newmarket / Parnell.. Wonder where that car is today. The early 00's seem like yesterday to me - it's extraordinary that we have moved on nearly 20 years. Despite not being a M car, these cars still ooze so much cool. Just like the E34 540is and the E34 535is before them.
  24. 3 points
    It's just a shame we have lost so much from earlier members with their contribution of build & project thread photos... my threads included. I spent hours & hours doing these over the years like others have done and now they are gone.... well they are still there if someone would get off their arse and make it happen
  25. 3 points
    Just got my 2001 E53 X5 back from the transmission rebuild by Automatic Transmission Repairs Ltd. Had a good chat with Zane who runs the place …and here's what he had to say: With the more modern 6-speed trans in E70s, they're coded to the car so you can't just swap in another unit. The older 5HP24 ZFs in the E53 and similar are not coded and can be exchanged with a 2nd hand unit. A BMW dealer processing a MBI claim will likely specify a whole new transmission rather than a rebuild which can be A LOT. So - better to use a reputable indy. We have seen a similar situation with the E60 550i repair quoted for the car Brett Taylor just purchased. Even if BMW says 'lifetime sealed unit' change the oil in your transmission at each interval 50-60K KMs, and only use ZF oil. This will help it last longer. A lot of the modern transmissions don't carry much oil, and don't really cool it down - and over time the oil degrades. Whatever you're doing always use the right oil, and the best oil you can. The 5HP24 is a decent transmission but you should expect a a rebuild as KMs go up. If you're getting a rebuild done, then it should be done thoroughly and using the newer iterations of the components as the 5HP24 was improved during its lifetime. After a rebuild, your vehicle it needs to go back for a check-up after 1000KMs Good guy to talk to, and he knows his stuff. Very pleased to have it back - enjoy driving it Transmission seems all good.
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