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Consumer has obviously not had much to do with BMWs.....

Bunch of cool photos from the track day:

HI all, new to BMW ownership, new to forum, 2015 435i import, to see how things work, and learn the ropes on the BMW scene N55 motor, and as already read about, look after it and it will reward Cheers all

30k

Parked next to this stunner at the gym this morning in Glenfield - Manual 540i 🤟🏽

I thought this was the same Henna / Houndstooth for sale early 2020, but it's not. You're right, this one hasn't been for sale before, it's been stored for a while courtesy of the New Zealand Government...

I've often wondered why buyers expect I should drop my sale price to pay for their travel. 😕

and she waits for tomorrow....

M20 “interior”

Really, how long ago was that? I can’t remember seeing this car before, and I haven’t seen any E30 M3s under $80k for a long time. The black modified one “88 M3” is being flipped as well, change of front seats and the asking price is +$10k.

Just re-read it and sounds like he's got the rocker cover gasket off atm, so replace the lot while access is good. Hopefully they unwound the valvetronic motor correctly when removing the rocker cover. Reinstalling it is a little tricky.

Yeah that reads exactly like @NZ_InFernos fault. I'd be looking at replacing the valvetronic motor and sensor. The motor is the easy one to do, so i'd start with that, but oil in the sensor isnt a good sign.

I had a quite similar issue (it sounds like the same issue tbh) that caused no end of problems(car would run badly and die, down on power), but with no fault code ever occurring 🙄. The valvetronic range was not correct when checked in inpa, I can't remember the exact numbers but it was off, and the calibration in inpa would reset but then didn't do anything. The power on test, before starting the engine, when the vvt motor should go through a full range(click to click), it didn't do it at all. It was narrowed down to the valvetronic motor, after cleaning the vanos Solenoids, replacing the initially suspected eccentric shaft sensor and having all the wiring checked. The valvetronic motor has been replaced previously so that's why it wasn't suspected. Myself and @KwS(mostly KwS tbh) changed the valvetronic motor. I also changed the valvetronic electrical control module at the same time. Mostly because everything else in the electrical chain had been checked or replaced, and I wasn't 100% sure it was actually the vt motor itself causing problems. After running the inpa calibration, and maybe dme calibration? the car ran mint and has done since then. I did a write up of it in my 130i manual thread, you should have a read of. I would suggest you change the valvetronic electronic module, it's $20 from fcpeuro. If that doesn't work then do the vvt motor, maybe both at the same time but the motor is much more expensive at $150US, plus you need the gasket. Photo below is the module and valvetronic motor gasket for a pre lci! Lci have a different type of gasket for the valvetronic motor(real OEM is your friend). Not sure if the module is different between lci/pre-lci but worth checking realoem anyway. The module lives underneath the fusebox on the passenger side of the engine bay. It's easy to follow the wiring from the vt motor to it. Realoem will also show it. Also you noted that there is oil on the eccentric shaft sensor. From reading online trying to diagnose my problem that is a bad sign, and can cause faulty readings and sensor to fail. So it may be the sensor causing the issue. But if all the readings from it are good, clean it and pray its not the sensor otherwise that's about $250 US from fcpeuro. Hope this helps

Need one of my floor mount shifters to go behind it! running one of them behind out tr6060 in the track car and it's 😍

That's fine, if it's not bled correctly it will hit 100*C and keep climbing until something bursts.

I think I had two out of my last three BMWs and Mercedes which had mechanical warranties on them and were never used. So call that $6k over 6-7 years... Then, the evaporator core in my X5 sprang a leak. That sucker is buried deeeeeeeeep in the dash. Went into Auckland BMW to have the whole dash removed and for it to be redone. Cost me $350 for my deductible, safe to say It would have blown out most of that 6K. It’s like insuring your house. Waste of money if you’re 100% confident it will never be victim to fire, flood or anything else.

White E46 M3 on Customhouse Quay this evening (parked) - got a great look at it due to terrible Wellington traffic.

75 to 80k I would think based on current listings/recent sales ... Dealer or private ?

Thats around what mine used to run at. Usually around low-mid 90's in most conditions if operating correctly, drops down into high 80's when giving it a work out. The thermostat is rated around 96 or 97 degrees iirc

Valvetronic thing, if it is just the sensor then shouldnt be an issue, but if its a problematic eccentric shaft it could be a bit more expensive. If its gets sorted, for 10k I would definitely consider it, looks well maintained and buying from a forum member is a plus. not expected, but if it didnt sell at 9000, and the seller is motivated to sell then you could try to justify a slightly lower price as a compromise between asking price and what you are willing to pay. Sometimes all it takes is an offer to "cover" their flight costs or a full tank of gas to tip a potential buyer over the edge in their decision making in whether to buy or not. its just a gesture that you are motivated to sell more so than $ value.

BMW will contact you via snail mail. When they feel like it. Could give them a call.

Id argue the Pre-LCI has the better engine marginally, less plastic. LCI had better interior.... but honestly its not worth picking one car over another on either. Straight car thats been looked after is what to look for, and with the correct gearbox ( ) everything else is trivial (including km) Some people like iDrive etc, I think its clunky and dates car etc etc etc. A straight looked after car is what really matters!

this interest you ?

....and a LONG ISLAND ICED TEA...with 2 carolina reapers for a touch of ooolala...💣💥💦

Spotted in AKL CBD last night.

Pramod in Wellington does key reprogramming, I forgot what his bimmersport handle is but he has a website now https://www.nztuningbay.com/

Been doing my own 'detailing'. Removed all the swirls of light scratches in the clear coat. Touched up a couple of chips, etc. Found some sparkle in the paint I didn't know was there! Approx 2 days work and $70 of consumables with a borrowed supercheap $150 buffer. Good enough when compared to the $500 I was quoted.

I've put this up as an auction on Trademe. Can't keep her forever... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2957432415?bof=cJFiMvuu Starting price is 10k And just between me and you lot, I've set the reserve to 14k.

Snapped a photo before the farm bugs came looking for water and before I drove down the dusty af driveway. First wash this summer

Awesome man, love how purpose driven this beast is - I would too terrified of breaking something on mine haha

Followed (by chance going same way haha) this little beauty across AKL CBD this morning

Xmas makeover Gate to Hellbm.

Couple locals for a catch up last night

Soon....

Ahh the amount of e30s we butchered and trashed when we were younger ?

What ‘s ride and handling got to do with anything, it’s all about being super low and mega stanced and hella flush isn’t it?

Try E30 M3 tax, that’s a whole nother level. The number of people that try and sell “genuine E30 M3 this, that or the other” for mega bucks and then get pissed when I point out it’s the same part as on every other E30 and can you can still buy them new for a fraction of the price!

Thanks for the comments everyone. Yep it was the 57000 km 523i I was looking at, although I’m leaning towards the 328i since one of the main reasons for wanting a Bmer is the drive and it sounds like the 4 cylinder turbo they put into the 3 series is a pretty good alternative to a 6er. Great tip about the service being on I drive - I didn’t think of that. Both cars are at dealers but I’ll get them checked out. Not sure about the mechanical warranty. Consumer report doesn’t think they’re worth the money as long as you get a decent pre purchase check done on it.