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A belated 21st present has been ordered for the M5. - Clutch kit and at the same time a shifter rebuild using some new bits I have had stored away. -full suspension kit including shocks, all arms, ball joints, steering parts etc. Everything except subframe bushes and wheel bearings. diff bushes, diff seals, drive shaft cv, centre bearing and flex coupling were replaced in late 2018. -valve cover seals, air filters, cabin filters and fuel filter. Oil change to be done at same time. Be a good opp to also fit 4 new CPS's i've had in storage too. Planning to take it down to the end of the south island next year and will be looking forward to driving it on all the fresh parts.

Haven't updated this in a while. But I bought some new wheels for her. She's gone through 2 sets so far. I have some genuine BBS rts as well as some genuine AC Schnitzer type 2s. I also lowered the e28 on spax springs and pulled all the old Bilstein shocks out as they were pretty poked and replaced them with Monroe shocks for now. I have sent the Bilsteins away to get refurbished. Also did the front lower control arms and bushings. I did end up buying another BMW. The 357 magic number is complete for me. I now have a 1980 735i too. Will add pics below. As well as a 123d as a daily. I have a problem I know. I currently have 2 e30s, 2 e28s, 1 e23, 1 e82 and 2 e83s. I ended up buying a complete e28 just for the mtech kit. I also have a manual conversion on the way for the 535i. Next mission is to find one for the e23. I may have to look overseas for that. Here's a dumping of pics to go through fellas and lasses

Not sure what rush hour traffic you drive in but my experience with a manual is; clutch in clutch out repeat a thousand times, all the while wearing it out prematurely. As to putting an auto into neutral there is no need, all the modern autos are designed to deal with the rigors of stop start traffic and as the torque converter is operating at slow speed with only minor slip the heat is far from excessive. As to DSG gearboxes my wife's Skoda is at 220k of which a great deal is city commuting and there are no issues. I am pretty sure a manual gearbox will have had a new clutch or two if it had to do that amount of rush hour crawling. Auto transmissions like most mechanical devices if serviced regularly present few problems. And yes we know BMW's sealed for life statement is wrong. And FWIW I have a manual again and I enjoy driving it, but it cant compare performance wise to a modern auto like a ZF8HP. Your comment re Ford vs Holden makes little sense apart from reinforcing how much you dislike them because they are not European.

Maybe I'm an optimist but considering everything I've ever heard about how stringent the engineer cert and recompliance process is, I'd have to think that it's a good car and it's hardly worth worrying about. Sure, it'll hurt resale but that's beside the point.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3773530059347719 Looks lovely in the photos, anything in particular to look out for? I would imagine the M52B28 would be tired by now Well maintained face lift e38 for sale. Runs beautifully and has a great interior that matches the outside (will take photos). everything is fully functional (no dead pixels etc) including Sports EDC suspension, Rear power sunshade, widescreen OEM head unit with cd stacker, front and rear parking sensors, cruise control, towbar, power seats and more. Price is firm

E28 looks STUNNING on those Typ2 splitties! Can't wait to see the kit on as well.

exactly, I thought auto coolers were for those people that tow large weights etc not idling in traffic. a large percentage of the manual cars for sale in Auckland have a clutch shudder from excessive overuse and people slipping them to creep forward. to be sitting stopped on the north shore entry to the harbour bridge moving one car length if your lucky in a manual, how unnecessary if your sitting through two green light changes on a hill, say at the top of queen to get into K road, you can muck around with handbrakes probably behind a bus so nill vision, many possible oh sh*t were not moving, oh hang on were off, no wait, hill starts or you could just sit there in an auto completely relaxed, its a no brainer, traffic is stressful enough without torturing yourself unnecessarily. not that any manual lover would change or admit any of that I'd also like to see these owners manuals that don't recommend leaving an auto in drive, altho you underlined it so maybe its true, can't see the fuel difference between your manual in neutral and said auto either, engine is still running in both cases, oh wait autos have start/stop now, do manuals have that too? and if you flicked your manual into neutral as you suggest and coast, thats an immediate fail of your drivers license test. you don't have control of the vehicle, your argument is questionable

Very happy to report that the problem is now solved!! The guys at P&S did a great job, they said the DMF was definitely shagged and had heaps of play, plus the thrust bearing was about as bad as they'd ever seen apparently. No wonder it was feeling so bad! It was certainly an expensive exercise getting this solved, especially given how many other components I've replaced along the way trying to chase it down. Oh well, should be good to go for another 150,000 kms now! So I enjoyed a very smooth and quiet drive home which was a huge relief. Now I can really get on with enjoying driving it again, especially since I've only just done the MILV and tune!

SOLD We'll see it again in six months for 35k

yeah, I wouldn't be so optimistic on this one to be totally honest. The system is there, but dealing with it everyday you soon realize how floored it is and some of the workmanship that gets through is frightening. The current system is not bad, HOWEVER there are still some quite frankly F****** horrible repairs going through certification. We have had cars come through with shocking welding and panel replacement which has been done be people with the "Icar" tickets.. it is pretty scary. Given that the repair took place 12 years ago when the processes were not in place like they are today and the whole certification process was still in the days of being a boys club, I would definitely be getting it looked at to ensure it has all been done properly. Lifting up the carpets to ensure things are on on the inside where the new rail has been put in and has been painted/cavity waxed as required

Picked this beauty up in Rotorua from a forum member on here. What a rare colour being Malachite Green Metallic. Nz new. I plan to do a manual conversion and mtech kit on it and some nice wheels although the basket weaves look amazing. It will eventually get a full repaint. Too. Who else has an e28 or a lead on a manual conversion. The 535i has nice power I must admit.

Recently picked up a 2007 130i, first BMW I've had! Turns out it's from a member here (Chester), but I didn't know at the time - wish I took advantage of the bimmersport discount he offered! It seems well looked after, but has a few little blemishes here and there, but for the price I couldn't turn it down. I've got a few plans for it. Changed out the battery last week when it gave out on me and threw every fault code it could - scary experience! New bumper, mags, aero spoiler etc etc, normal stuff. Firstly though I'll get a transmissions service. Photo's to come!

M539 on youtube should be essential viewing for anyone taking the plunge.

Such a handsome shape - late 90's early 2000's BMW were on their game.

Somebody tucked you. The best race pads installed by a no armed mechanic charging $150 per hour wouldn't cost that.

But optimistically its been “fine” for 12 years since the repair so must be okay? (trying to justify it cuz its the closest ill get to ever owning an e46 m3 haha)

Not necessarily. A light non air bag inflating tap can knock out the front chassis rails very easily.

As Herb says, lot of labour and one of those 'while your in there' situations. Almost gaurantee turbos will have end float in shaft,(thrust) worn. Rattle fix itself is not overly differcult, but if you are looking at keeping car for a while, and upping boost etc, turbo core rebuild with upgraded bearings and thrusts is the way to go IMO. Just to much to remove within the work scope not to tidy up and gain reliability going forward. I'm about to do just that, taken long time, covid hasn't helped, shipping of parts, bit of a nightmare, but changing lots, mounts, lines, hoses, etc. Good luck with purchase, great ride.

Sure this has been relisted but still pretty cheap https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m3/listing/2821285227?bof=yiGdGiet I thought all of the E9x had CIC by 2009?

Sold, thanks!

It has been a very long complicated road, but she's back, with a rebuilt engine: Drove it to work, was nice to hear that exhaust note again, wish the M4 sounded like that! Will probably put her up for sale soon... doesn't make sense to keep this and the M4. Anyone want a stuffed N55? The guys did pull it open, said it certainly looked like the bearings were not getting oil as they were destroyed, some of them apparently had even split apart. . Potentially the cylinder head is worth something to somebody: If anyone wants to buy it let me know, otherwise it'll go to the scrap pile

Ahh its your old one! Price hasnt changed much since when you sold it then haha. Its certainly one of the cheapest for sale at the moment

maybe should sell mine then ?

my gosh, the green on the Style 19 is ridiculous. As much as I love the ACS type 2's.. the Style 19's win it for me personally.

It's all the same part sharing really, see https://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us/F30-M-Sport-Brakes/ Genuinely surprised to see that the retrofit kits run a differently sized disc and pad for the same caliper though, but you can run the same larger discs and pads in the S2NH option blue calipers, as the caliper and mount is the same. I'd be shocked if there wasn't multitudes of off the shelf pads on offer if you ran the brembo caliper part number past a competent brake specialist, some proper two piece rotors and not bmw pads would be a great option instead of getting tucked for stock garbage at the stealership, but that's a thread for another day.

the 2.8L in a 7 series isnt as bad as it sounds. its certainly no rocket but it can still cruise very well and still get up to speed reasonably quick. I think you cant be picky with E38's given how few there must be now

With no mention of previous damage

More people joining the cool kids club, pics or it didnt happen.

Looks nice but I remember my dad's old 730i V8 being slow. I can see a 728i being positively pedestrian.

4k

"no issues, lady owner, never thrashed"

Thats what we used to call craftsmanship. Before the throwaway generation. ?

You also need to think if it was written off 12 years go when the car was worth more and parts were more available, it must have been bad for the insurer to not fix it.

Success, turned out to be a loose hose from the booster, reattached securely and all is well ?

if you're going to do the serpentine belt, does it drive the AC, or separate belt (as on N62). If so, do that too. N62 is sans-tensioner, so if your N5x is similar, you'll want the belt tool as well. Should be considering Auto service. Auto trans pan/filter, and mechatronic sleeve. As yours is LCI, should have the good pan bolts so no need to replace. Possibly your fuel filler cap? Check the big O-ring for cracks. Download the latest So you bought an e60? Valeo e60 Wiper Blades cabin filters query hood support struts HTH

Hope you had the battery coded and registered to the car

If it were a sports car, or a performance car, then yes a Manual could well be considered. If it's a daily commuter 320d then there are a big number of benefits to the auto over the manual, let alone the higher level of spec in the Edition 30 over the manual one. Chief amongst these would be the re-sale value as the market for a 320d manual with poverty spec would be very, very small. Unless you really have a need to feel like a race car driver and want to make brrm, brrm noises on your way to work the auto is much more convenient. You can't eat your breakfast and drink your coffee during your crawl to work like everyone else if you have to keep using your hand to change gears.

To shed some light on this topic, the owner is a panel beater and carried out the repair himself 12 years ago. He had to replace the left chassis rail.

Have said this since 2003 when the frontal impact laws and liability laws changed for damaged vehicles. All that happens is the vehicle is marked as damaged upon import. Whilst you need an engineers report to re-vin the car. You don't have to give that to anyone afterwards. And anyone with it can not hand it to anyone else without permission. Fun times. It's a game of how well you can hide the repair. M cars are a hard one. They could have been written off because they couldn't find an bonnet and bumper. But also and prob more likely is that they are a sports car and were crashed being driven hard.

Its a real shame there is no public database of written off vehicles. Be great to search the vin and have a description and photos.

@leichtbau 240k km on my dad's 2010 E91 320d says yes. regular oil changes FTW.

another road trip eh, mate?

I'd go for the 2013 auto NZ new 30th Edition

IMHO I was young once and thought it had to be manual, but you grow out of it, practicality in a city, stop start traffic it just makes no sense and its no slight on your mad driving skills to actually own and drive an auto. It doesn't suddenly mean you don't know how to drive a manual. especially I don't think manual diesel makes a lot of sense either, aren't the autos like 8 speed so better matched but the whole point of diesel is torque and lower effortless revs for a weekend toy, sure manual is way more fun, just buy a s2000 or something

Original Style 135’s now available to complete the original specs.

I am pursuing this engine swap and looking for wisdom and advice as to how to go about it and tips in general. Anything helps as this will be my first engine swap.

Could make a pretty penny selling that k24 plate on NZhondas

Another thing to consider is some of the M-Sport costs and if you’re up for them. I just had my brakes done at the Auckland dealership as part of my service plan. I tried to find the parts to have it done elsewhere but just couldn’t get the correct ones so had to suck up the $1500.... for pads only.